Turbo/boost question

[Slyclone]

My typhoon was doing well up until the other day. I snapped the alternator bracket clear off. Truck seen some high coolant temps due to lack of being cooled down. I lost my steering first and realise that i should pull over. Looked down to pull over abd my temp gauge was 1 bar under the max temp of red indicator.Drive belt system stopped. Was it too late?

With engine temps up, could I have compromise the condition of my turbo?

All the sudden... I can not get the truck to boost above the first red boost bar ( 5 psi?). Just practically stepped on it to the floor and barely rose above the first boost bar. I'm used to seeing it shoot up around the 2nd to 3rd bar no problem.

I'm going to look over all the connections again and make sure nothing is real loose.

Anyone have any tips or pointers? Sort-of stumped about this turbo/cooling thing in regards to if I destroyed my turbo. Oil was probably hot. Boiling hot my guess is. I'm thinking worst case scenario right now.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Turbo has got to be blown. :tdown:

 

[Peter]

Re: Turbo/boost question

The turbo obviously works a little, so maybe the problem is with the waste gate, or the waste gate solenoid. Double check everything in that area before panic. Look for anything that could have been disconnected or damaged during the recent repairs. Do temperatures look normal now?

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Engine temps are low. Seemingly under the hood is hot. Turbo back side seemed overly hot. I grabbed oil dipstick and that was very hot.

Recently installed a new WG solenoid. I know that functions.

I'm wondering if the thing got so hot it froze the WG arm shut or its ability to move freely. I'm going to look again.

Thanks for the pointer.

 

[Damian]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Something tells me that the turbo isnt the issue. If you broke the alt bracket, something is wrong. Not to mention the engine got too hot.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Alternator bracket broke due to a bolt at bottom backing out and it got weak and broke. The bolt hole at bottom actually was oblonged.

Engine got very hot. That about sums is up.

Engine does power up turbo does not. Wondering if the bearing swelled? Shaft may have? Or something could have been starved for coolant or oil and cooked. That's what I am really thinking. I didn't blow no freeze plugs or my heater core for some reason I feel like the turbo went.

 

[Peter]

Re: Turbo/boost question

If you haven't already, you can pull the elbow off the turbo intake. Spin the blades by hand. If the turbo does not turn freely, you are correct, it has seized up. It could happen since the center section is water cooled and lost its flow. However, it was still oil cooled. Our stock turbos are pretty robust. The exhaust "turbine" side of the turbo gets very hot. So does the dipstick tube. This is normal.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Yea I'm out here now with my brother and he thinks I'm crazy. I removed the intake and elbow and started truck made sure turbo spins. Also I turned truck off and spin with my hand. It did spin. For some reason it just does not power up.

I'm wondering if I blew a head gasket or something internally I can't see on the inside. Trying to determine if I have coolant in the oil or any type of washout on the plugs. Really not looking to start taking things apart. Thats what it will require. My brother is trying to convince me I am over looking things and the heat is normal also. I am just super concern because there is a huge lack of power.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Thanks for the response DaveP. Now my wastegate has a small crimp connection like factory hard lines. Just disconnect @ the solenoid? I do understand this concept as I melted the hose once and boost may have spiked to 29 psi. That was when the intercooler blew off about a month ago. Aside from that I can try to do the test to see if boost rises to the "normal" range. I guess I can disconnect from the sensor.

Also P.S. in regards to the bracket. That steel manifold-fork bracket was mangled when I bought the truck. I still have it. Never put it back on because it was so messed up.

Thanks again. I'll try test in a little bit to verify turbo works/doesn't. We will see.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Went ahead and disconnected the hose that goes into the sensor. Nothing changed. Still staying around 5 psi. I had my brother in passenger seat and he said it seems fine. And asked What more could I ask for. I told him about 8 more psi is missing. He seems to think its there.

My next thought is : is my stock/ factory boost gauge bugged up? I am able to hear truck build boost( small whistle/whine) and pressure is released when I let off pedal and gauge hangs around in the green which is still vac. I'm guessing if this is the case my 5 psi would be 10?. My brother could not see it(boost gauge) but I could. He said I need a better more modern gauge but I can feel it's missing something.

What should I move on to next?

 

[Couger1968]

Re: Turbo/boost question

A better boost gauge than factory is mandatory. The factory are not accurate, and if you have a 3 bar map is is totally off anyway. It should be one of the first things anyone does.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Keep in mind this truck was modified with all that "mandatory" stuff and I pulled most of it off and made it " bone stock" for the most part. No 3 bar.

The factory gauge would show higher boost levels before.. I'm not sure how to test the gauge out or of its off calibration. Only way I will know actual boost levels is if I setup the data master. I think I also donated my aftermarket boost gauge anyway so I can't just set one up and go that route real quick to see what that reads.

 

[Damian]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Dave said disconnect the boost hose from the turbo to boost controller, not the electrical plug.

Something tells me you are getting a bunch of knock retard now and that's why you aren't building boost like before.

 

[Gnocide]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Dave said disconnect the boost hose from the turbo to boost controller, not the electrical plug.

Something tells me you are getting a bunch of knock retard now and that's why you aren't building boost like before.

maybe
i had a broken dp hanger on my atr pipe that caused a lot of that and didnt know where the false knock was coming from until i pulled it off the turbo- thats when i realized it was broke

with DavePs solution- he would still get tremendous boost despite knock ;with line off.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Turbo/boost question

I did disconnect the hose. Its just crimped on at the actual waste gate so I did not remove it there I removed it @ the waste gate solenoid. Doing that nothing really changed as far as boost levels.

 

[Gnocide]

Re: Turbo/boost question

test your vac lines with a low (like 5-10 )psi of air compressor and soapy water-
check for leaks at the tb- upper intake, f/p reg

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Truck still has original cat. converter.

I guess I should get under there and bang it a little and see if that has fragmented and listen for any type of rattle? Could have melted or blew apart and could be blocked up due to high heat?? ( a guess )

I do have a bike pump here but not sure how to fashion up something up for introducing air into the system.

It should be able to produce 30+ PSI with the wastegate closed.

Does this truck still have a functioning (not gutted) cat converter?
Restricted exhaust will limit boost.
The symptoms of a plugged cat are usually more severe than you're getting, but the principal is the same. Restrict the outlet, the boost will be limited.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Turbo/boost question

So I went for another ride. Looks like a MAX boost level of 8 psi. Your right... Can I just pull my ECM fuse and reset the system or is there more involved.

I inspected the wires and wiring on the waste gate solenoid and it looks to be OK. It is not on the turbo anyway its located a little higher up as I have a "aftermarket stock replacement turbo" Its not a OE Mitsu unit but appears to be one of the Kinugawa stuff. The mitsu unit has a spot for it, this kiigawa does not.

Tapped on the Cat, didnt hear any pieces or chunks of stuff. Still does not tell me if there is a blockage anywhere. Have not done the bike pump test.

 

[Static]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Better way to test the cat is to get it up to operating temperature and then measure the pre and post temperatures with an infra red thermometer. Should be about 100 degrees higher post cat for a functioning one.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Turbo/boost question

Was just out there and removed of all the intake and couplers again.

I tested the WG solinoid for +12v with the key on, engine off and there is 12v present.

Dug out the manual and re-read the whole turbo section over. I believe the correct word and issue here is coke. Turbo got coked. In the blue manual under Turbocharger, 6J-3 maintenance paragraph 4 explains is how "overheating" can cause this. I spun the turbo shaft once more by hand and sure enough there's a stiff spot. Not sure if the turbo can self-recover from this. It says to change engine oil and oil filter. Its very hard to see the actual condition of the wheel its self for dirt/ or broken fins.

Edit: just looked @ the fins with a small dental mirror and they all appear fine. No wear or contact on the inner. Just a siezed up center it seems like.