Turbo/boost question
- Thread starter Slyclone
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Slyclone
Well-known member
Re: Turbo/boost question
Shifting my thoughts, thinking I blew out the head gasket(s).
One side appears to have a little seepage, what looks to be coolant coming from between the heads/block. I dug out a set of headgaskets and looked at them to see the area that could " blow ". The little passages on the sides of the pistons. To add passenger side sounds like a exhaust leak which my best guess is the compression is slipping past the gasket. I have a spare set of heads I'm thinking of taking to the machine shop and having them do some work ( prepare for bolting on) seals, guides, seating the valves. At this point I don't know if the head is cracked or warped but if I prepare my self with my spare heads I should be good.
A few others think the block blew out or a coolant passage along the cylinder walls. I would not know until I get down there.
Shifting my thoughts, thinking I blew out the head gasket(s).
One side appears to have a little seepage, what looks to be coolant coming from between the heads/block. I dug out a set of headgaskets and looked at them to see the area that could " blow ". The little passages on the sides of the pistons. To add passenger side sounds like a exhaust leak which my best guess is the compression is slipping past the gasket. I have a spare set of heads I'm thinking of taking to the machine shop and having them do some work ( prepare for bolting on) seals, guides, seating the valves. At this point I don't know if the head is cracked or warped but if I prepare my self with my spare heads I should be good.
A few others think the block blew out or a coolant passage along the cylinder walls. I would not know until I get down there.
![Quickstop [UK]](/data/avatars/m/5/5165.jpg?1570199786){kind=avatar}
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: Turbo/boost question
So when are you going to pull the head?
So when are you going to pull the head?
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Turbo/boost question
You can damage forged pistons from detonation. It just takes a lot more detonation to break them vs the stock piston. I would pull the engine apart before rebuilding a spare set of heads. It sounds like engine has been apart before so maybe someone used the wrong headgaskets or they were not installed properly. Your block could also be cracked or the piston damaged.
You can damage forged pistons from detonation. It just takes a lot more detonation to break them vs the stock piston. I would pull the engine apart before rebuilding a spare set of heads. It sounds like engine has been apart before so maybe someone used the wrong headgaskets or they were not installed properly. Your block could also be cracked or the piston damaged.
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: Turbo/boost question
Do a compression test now you got it all back together. Can you also do a leakdown test? Get a friend to help.
Do a compression test now you got it all back together. Can you also do a leakdown test? Get a friend to help.
Slyclone
Well-known member
Re: Turbo/boost question
Nothing new. Trucks back together runs like a dog. Just got done a little ride around town.Some suggested to re dial in timing which I did and no change.
Just referred back to this thread to cover DaveP's suggestion on how to test the turbo and function ability and the info is deleted. O well.
I re tried what I thought was the correct procedure removing the hose from WG can to the sensor. No real changes with boost rising rapid.
I put on some standard gm 4.3 v6 headgaskets. Some suggest that was also a no-no needing the specific VR5585.Thing is after all the work ( headgaskets lower intake gaskets twice over, rocker adjustments twice over..timing adjustments..) I'm back with a low boost or no boost condition.
For the record, here are some pics of the underside of the heads. Passenger side .. was told to look for white valves. A indicator of some type of failure.
Here is a photo of the pass. side cylinder bore. Does it look worn? Washed out? Smooth? Shiny? Something I noticed before that I am bringing back to attention.
Driver side.
Nothing new. Trucks back together runs like a dog. Just got done a little ride around town.Some suggested to re dial in timing which I did and no change.
Just referred back to this thread to cover DaveP's suggestion on how to test the turbo and function ability and the info is deleted. O well.
I re tried what I thought was the correct procedure removing the hose from WG can to the sensor. No real changes with boost rising rapid.
I put on some standard gm 4.3 v6 headgaskets. Some suggest that was also a no-no needing the specific VR5585.Thing is after all the work ( headgaskets lower intake gaskets twice over, rocker adjustments twice over..timing adjustments..) I'm back with a low boost or no boost condition.
For the record, here are some pics of the underside of the heads. Passenger side .. was told to look for white valves. A indicator of some type of failure.
Here is a photo of the pass. side cylinder bore. Does it look worn? Washed out? Smooth? Shiny? Something I noticed before that I am bringing back to attention.
Driver side.
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Re: Turbo/boost question
These are the ones I'm using: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-522SD/?ibanner=MobileSwitchNo I've run 20 lbs of boost with my GT3788R.
These are the ones I'm using: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-522SD/?ibanner=MobileSwitchNo I've run 20 lbs of boost with my GT3788R.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Turbo/boost question
"here does look like some copper/brass material at the bottom of the drain pan."
If you're actually seeing metal in the oil then you've got bearing damage. To confirm pull the oil filter, cut it open and look at the element. I suspect it will have metal. If you want to get fancy cut the actual paper loose and let it drain overnight. You can then unfold the element and really inspect it. All this work chasing boost and water is a waste. Pull the engine and fix it. This also explains the inconsistent oil pressure you were seeing.
"here does look like some copper/brass material at the bottom of the drain pan."
If you're actually seeing metal in the oil then you've got bearing damage. To confirm pull the oil filter, cut it open and look at the element. I suspect it will have metal. If you want to get fancy cut the actual paper loose and let it drain overnight. You can then unfold the element and really inspect it. All this work chasing boost and water is a waste. Pull the engine and fix it. This also explains the inconsistent oil pressure you were seeing.
Re: Turbo/boost question
20 psi on a crappy tune and they held up. Plus I've read several posts where V8 guys are running nitrous with the same size bore on both head gasket and cylinder bore and they have no issues. Plus the engine gonna know the .095"? That's .0475" "lip" all the way around the cylinder bore. I'd say that helps make it safe on a boosted motor to not turn the head gasket into an ignition source.
20 psi on a crappy tune and they held up. Plus I've read several posts where V8 guys are running nitrous with the same size bore on both head gasket and cylinder bore and they have no issues. Plus the engine gonna know the .095"? That's .0475" "lip" all the way around the cylinder bore. I'd say that helps make it safe on a boosted motor to not turn the head gasket into an ignition source.
Vaders Sy
Donating Member
Re: Turbo/boost question
In addition to Don's suggestion, use a magnet. You'll see tiny metal shavings or pieces clinging to the magnet. Keep us posted.
In addition to Don's suggestion, use a magnet. You'll see tiny metal shavings or pieces clinging to the magnet. Keep us posted.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Turbo/boost question
:2cents: If, in fact you have metal, and you've put it back together anyway, I assume, big assumption, that means you're gonna run the thing. If so then you have a serious risk of ruining the crank, the rods, and the block in that order. Others might switch those around but the result is the same. :2cents:
:2cents: If, in fact you have metal, and you've put it back together anyway, I assume, big assumption, that means you're gonna run the thing. If so then you have a serious risk of ruining the crank, the rods, and the block in that order. Others might switch those around but the result is the same. :2cents:
Slyclone
Well-known member
Re: Turbo/boost question
Just sold my spare block too, with matching crank and rods. I'm kicking my self in the ass pretty hard again. And again.
Going to be tough to find a good deal on something worth my time. I got rid of it with a bunch of bonus extras for cheap. Sometimes what goes around doesn't always come back around ( priced )in your favor. Maybe something will pop up?
Time to drop back and punt.
Just sold my spare block too, with matching crank and rods. I'm kicking my self in the ass pretty hard again. And again.
Going to be tough to find a good deal on something worth my time. I got rid of it with a bunch of bonus extras for cheap. Sometimes what goes around doesn't always come back around ( priced )in your favor. Maybe something will pop up?
Time to drop back and punt.
Couger1968
Dazed and Confused
Re: Turbo/boost question
Sometimes if it for the best. I didn't want to rebuild my engine, but glad I did. One thing I didn't do was try to take short cuts. I also didn't go crazy and bought smart not trying to make a billion horsepower. I wanted it to run well with a little more than stock power. But even then you have to look at it this way, it is like building a 500 horse v8, if you think about per cylinder. I know exactly what I have and it runs very well .
Sometimes if it for the best. I didn't want to rebuild my engine, but glad I did. One thing I didn't do was try to take short cuts. I also didn't go crazy and bought smart not trying to make a billion horsepower. I wanted it to run well with a little more than stock power. But even then you have to look at it this way, it is like building a 500 horse v8, if you think about per cylinder. I know exactly what I have and it runs very well .
atomicmecha
I hate rust
Re: Turbo/boost question
If you need some of the spare parts that you gave me with the block back let me know. I'm using the block, crank, and rods only atm. The rest is just on the shelf in my work shop atm. You can have them back if you need them for your motor. :tup:
If you need some of the spare parts that you gave me with the block back let me know. I'm using the block, crank, and rods only atm. The rest is just on the shelf in my work shop atm. You can have them back if you need them for your motor. :tup:
Slyclone
Well-known member
Re: Turbo/boost question
Alex, I appreciate you extending out.
I had the block and all for sale before I knew or had any troubles with my truck. I didn't know. Its not a big deal. I was on a tiff to clean up some space and get rid of some stuff and help out some one. I bought the complete engine for my typhoon early on. Ended up not needing it. My truck ran GREAT for a good amount of time for driving everyday.
My buddy in NJ had a teal typhoon that was junk he let me get most the parts. He retained the.engine and had it in a Datsun 510. He then removed it last time I saw him/it and was for sale. It was sitting in the corner complete. I called him today ( first ditch effort to obtain block) he sold it.
So basically this time around all I need is a block with some of the stuff. Block must be early 91 style, 2 bolt hold down. My typhoon has 4 bolt progamm mains I should save, eagle H beam rods, and some type of forged style low comp. Pistons I should be able to re cycle. ( as seen in photo) speed pro?
I appreciate it. I tried to extend out to my friend in NJ because I plan to go see him. But no engine. Some one may have one in here I can come pick up somewhere. I am cringing on shipping.
Alex, I appreciate you extending out.
I had the block and all for sale before I knew or had any troubles with my truck. I didn't know. Its not a big deal. I was on a tiff to clean up some space and get rid of some stuff and help out some one. I bought the complete engine for my typhoon early on. Ended up not needing it. My truck ran GREAT for a good amount of time for driving everyday.
My buddy in NJ had a teal typhoon that was junk he let me get most the parts. He retained the.engine and had it in a Datsun 510. He then removed it last time I saw him/it and was for sale. It was sitting in the corner complete. I called him today ( first ditch effort to obtain block) he sold it.
So basically this time around all I need is a block with some of the stuff. Block must be early 91 style, 2 bolt hold down. My typhoon has 4 bolt progamm mains I should save, eagle H beam rods, and some type of forged style low comp. Pistons I should be able to re cycle. ( as seen in photo) speed pro?
I appreciate it. I tried to extend out to my friend in NJ because I plan to go see him. But no engine. Some one may have one in here I can come pick up somewhere. I am cringing on shipping.
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atomicmecha
I hate rust
Re: Turbo/boost question
Not a problem. If it helps at all, there is a huge pick&pull place not far from you that sells complete motors for under $200. They have a lot of late 80's and early 90's s10's with the 4.3 TBI motor in them. Would be easy to score a complete motor. Let me know if you need a hand. I'm in search of a wiring harness from the same type of truck myself to fix an issue on my blazer. I can help you pull a motor when I'm getting the wires.
Not a problem. If it helps at all, there is a huge pick&pull place not far from you that sells complete motors for under $200. They have a lot of late 80's and early 90's s10's with the 4.3 TBI motor in them. Would be easy to score a complete motor. Let me know if you need a hand. I'm in search of a wiring harness from the same type of truck myself to fix an issue on my blazer. I can help you pull a motor when I'm getting the wires.