Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

If you've seen my previous posts, then you would notice I'm running less than half the power of Parish. At the point of 1000 fwtq, I doubt anyone would notice a loss of power through the drivetrain. I'm not denying the durablility of the 4l80, although I would like to watch them over a longer period of hard use.

SyTyJedi said:
It can't be that much of a power hog if Parish made 1000fwhp/1000fwtq and ran well into the 10s with hundreds of passes at the track. That is all the proof I need, as well as proof of it's ability to handle massive power WITH traction that our platform delivers.
 

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

Brian builds 4l80s as well. He even does the fancy Audi ZF transmissions.



smaug said:
i could be wrong, but isn't hartman a 200r4/700r4 guy, has he actually dealth with 4l80e's?

everyone i've seen with a 4l80e has loved it, gone faster at the track and installed it once :tup:
 

myclone

Donating Member
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

ivanko barbell said:
I would like to watch them over a longer period of hard use.

FWIW the three that Ive torn down were out of one and three quarter ton trucks that were beaten day in and day out (they were out of contractors company trucks). The trucks were beat hard enough that there wasnt a straight/usable panel on the body LOL once I got hold of them. None the less when I pulled the trans' apart you could still read the manufacturers writing that was printed on the friction surfaces when the trans was originally assembled and there was just a thin coating of the wear particals on the magnet (the black grungy stuff). All three had between 55 and 100k miles and had never been rebuilt previously.

BTW, Ive found ONE broken part so far and that was the rear servo return spring.

The 80e in my dually now has 112k on it and Ive dragged ~10k lbs of trailer/load half way across the country more than once with it and the fluid still looks practically new when I drain it along with no grunge on the magnet to speak of.

That kind of durability testing is enough for me.
 

QUICK STORM

B.A.M.F. BMW Tech
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

i want the 80e so i don't have to worry anymore, i agree with waller that most trucks here don't need a 80e and if the 700 is built right it should last, but to me it is a piece of mind, like what jeff was saying about the tool guy debate, its up to you to know what you want and feel comfortable with your decision, this is why i want a 4L80e in my truck.
 

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

Cost is a factor I use. If you have to do like Ivanko did and spend $5K on a 700, you've waisted your money. You should've gone with a 4L80E and been done with it. When I worked with Nightdiver, what we found was, once you get so quick, 1st gear in the 700 becomes useless in the syty. He would go through it so quick, it was hard to datalog first gear. I mean it was almost instant and he had zero traction. 1st gear in the 700 is so low it's hard to get traction. Same truck that won't hook up in the 700 and has to be detuned, will do fine in the 80 because of the gearing. Parasitic drag is a tough one. Parts in the 700 weigh less. But they do double duty. If you follow the components of the 80, you'll see it's not doing double duty on anything. The big 1-2 shift is not the big band as much as it is the gear change. It's much more extreme on the 700 than it is on the 80. You don't get the kick but you get an actual useful 1st gear. I use 9.5" converters in the 80 now. Any rotational mass issues are pretty much done away with there. I've done both. Seen lots of broken 700s. NEVER seen a BROKEN 4l80E that wasn't overheated.....5th wheel with 4 cars on a trailor being towed with no auxillary cooler going 85 mph on the highway(my brother) from Louisiana to Ohio.
Brian did a 4L80e in a syty a long time ago. Didn't use the BW4472 transfer case. Never heard much about it. Back then though, it was REALLY hard to get a converter that didn't weigh 80 pounds for a 4L80E. I think Brian was wanting $1200 for the output shaft alone to go to a 27 spline. Probably why most guys just passed on it.
Static Weight. A 700 weighs 140 pounds. 80e=170 pounds. The case alone is 15 of it.
700s have their place. If you get to the point you need a billet output shaft in a 700, it's time to move on. There is still the aluminum drum issue even after going with a billet output shaft. Ticking bomb. 80e does not have that weakness. 700s also have the little 29 element sprag that can flip. 80e has a 34 element wider dogged sprag. Again, no comparison. You make enough power to break an 80e input shaft or main shaft, billet parts are readily available....and they cost less than a billet output shaft and a reinforced cryo'd 4L65/4L70 sprag.
Just adding something to a comment about JS not doing a true back to back test...if you followed their progress, which they doc'd on here pretty well, there wasn't any tuning that could be done because of all the drivetrain issues. Trans....transfer case....Jeff's finger...trans....trans.....4L80E just in time for nats. I worked on the thing till 2 AM just so they could have it in time. There was NO tuning specific to the 4L80E. I know.
Brian told you to go with a standard because that was his opinion. You trust him obviously. Don't ask us what we think. Brian knows you, knows your truck, knows how you want to use it and that's what he thinks. (And I'm sure you kinda hinted you wanted a standard shift because of the way you want to use it anyway) :)
 
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Try Me

New member
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

once you get so quick, 1st gear in the 700 becomes useless in the syty. He would go through it so quick, it was hard to datalog first gear. I mean it was almost instant and he had zero traction. 1st gear in the 700 is so low it's hard to get traction. Same truck that won't hook up in the 700 and has to be detuned, will do fine in the 80 because of the gearing.

That was a huge change for me in my truck. with the 700 the truck would destroy the tires all the way through first gear if i had anything more than 6lbs showing when i let off the brake. Same wheels & tires, same turbo and engine tune, I can now launch the truck with 13lbs on the gauge and just barely skirt the tires out. truck pulls sooooo much better through first and then second isnt as harsh and doesnt feel like it bogs down.

If your dedicated to your truck and wanna be able to have fun with it, its just a matter of what kind of driving you do as to whether you do 4l80e or 400turbo. a lot of street use (like me) 4l80e is fantastic, cruises perfect, shifts nice when your light on it, hard when it needs it (all user programable) and i dont every worry about tranny problems, just check/change the fluid in a timely manner. If its a track/trailer queen the 400 would be just fine. dont need computer comforts, dont need lock up, just need strength and durability... :2cents:
 

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

FWIW, the 700 vs a 4L80E....any shop will tell you the 700 is a money maker. Rebuilds in half the time of a 4L80E. Lot more components in the 4L80E. Hardest part is seating all the clutches because the drums are not finger friendly. 700 you got one clutch pack in the case (simple) and the rest are in the input drum. Reverse drum takes no time. 80E has direct drum, forward drum, overrun drum, overdrive crown, and the intermediates down in the case that's not including the completely separate geartrain down at the bottom of the case. A lot more work for the builder.
 

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

What do you think about the constant upshift/downshift of autox and track day use?

myclone said:
FWIW the three that Ive torn down were out of one and three quarter ton trucks that were beaten day in and day out (they were out of contractors company trucks). The trucks were beat hard enough that there wasnt a straight/usable panel on the body LOL once I got hold of them. None the less when I pulled the trans' apart you could still read the manufacturers writing that was printed on the friction surfaces when the trans was originally assembled and there was just a thin coating of the wear particals on the magnet (the black grungy stuff). All three had between 55 and 100k miles and had never been rebuilt previously.

BTW, Ive found ONE broken part so far and that was the rear servo return spring.

The 80e in my dually now has 112k on it and Ive dragged ~10k lbs of trailer/load half way across the country more than once with it and the fluid still looks practically new when I drain it along with no grunge on the magnet to speak of.

That kind of durability testing is enough for me.
 

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

I don't believe an 700 can be built right w/o the use of extremely strong hard parts, which don't exist yet according to BG. My truck is proof of that.

QUICK STORM said:
i want the 80e so i don't have to worry anymore, i agree with waller that most trucks here don't need a 80e and if the 700 is built right it should last, but to me it is a piece of mind, like what jeff was saying about the tool guy debate, its up to you to know what you want and feel comfortable with your decision, this is why i want a 4L80e in my truck.
 

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

At the time I had my 700 built, the 4l80 wasn't a real option yet. People were still in the 700R4 mind set back then. I don't notice 1st gear being "useless" and it got the truck out of the hole quickly. One thing I should note is my 700R4 shifted very differently than a stock Sy. My shift points were closer to 4000 rpm and the rpm's dropped very little between shifts. It almost felt like a sequential transmission.

What I would like to do have an opportunity to drive a truck with a properly engineered 4l80 so I can experience it first hand.


George Blake said:
Cost is a factor I use. If you have to do like Ivanko did and spend $5K on a 700, you've waisted your money. You should've gone with a 4L80E and been done with it. When I worked with Nightdiver, what we found was, once you get so quick, 1st gear in the 700 becomes useless in the syty. He would go through it so quick, it was hard to datalog first gear. I mean it was almost instant and he had zero traction. 1st gear in the 700 is so low it's hard to get traction. Same truck that won't hook up in the 700 and has to be detuned, will do fine in the 80 because of the gearing. Parasitic drag is a tough one. Parts in the 700 weigh less. But they do double duty. If you follow the components of the 80, you'll see it's not doing double duty on anything. The big 1-2 shift is not the big band as much as it is the gear change. It's much more extreme on the 700 than it is on the 80. You don't get the kick but you get an actual useful 1st gear. I use 9.5" converters in the 80 now. Any rotational mass issues are pretty much done away with there. I've done both. Seen lots of broken 700s. NEVER seen a BROKEN 4l80E that wasn't overheated.....5th wheel with 4 cars on a trailor being towed with no auxillary cooler going 85 mph on the highway(my brother) from Louisiana to Ohio.
Brian did a 4L80e in a syty a long time ago. Didn't use the BW4472 transfer case. Never heard much about it. Back then though, it was REALLY hard to get a converter that didn't weigh 80 pounds for a 4L80E. I think Brian was wanting $1200 for the output shaft alone to go to a 27 spline. Probably why most guys just passed on it.
Static Weight. A 700 weighs 140 pounds. 80e=170 pounds. The case alone is 15 of it.
700s have their place. If you get to the point you need a billet output shaft in a 700, it's time to move on. There is still the aluminum drum issue even after going with a billet output shaft. Ticking bomb. 80e does not have that weakness. 700s also have the little 29 element sprag that can flip. 80e has a 34 element wider dogged sprag. Again, no comparison. You make enough power to break an 80e input shaft or main shaft, billet parts are readily available....and they cost less than a billet output shaft and a reinforced cryo'd 4L65/4L70 sprag.
Just adding something to a comment about JS not doing a true back to back test...if you followed their progress, which they doc'd on here pretty well, there wasn't any tuning that could be done because of all the drivetrain issues. Trans....transfer case....Jeff's finger...trans....trans.....4L80E just in time for nats. I worked on the thing till 2 AM just so they could have it in time. There was NO tuning specific to the 4L80E. I know.
Brian told you to go with a standard because that was his opinion. You trust him obviously. Don't ask us what we think. Brian knows you, knows your truck, knows how you want to use it and that's what he thinks. (And I'm sure you kinda hinted you wanted a standard shift because of the way you want to use it anyway) :)
 

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

I agree a nice feature of an electronic transminssion is you can control the shift charactaristics unlike the 700R4 that would shift hard at cruise or race. The tranny just liked to have power behind it. It would have been nice to control the TC lock up points as well.

Well, I'm going to step away from the truck for a while and think things over hard. It's unfortunate that I will be missing out the rest of the autox points events. I really wanted to be competitive this year with all the suspension and brake mods, etc.

Try Me said:
That was a huge change for me in my truck. with the 700 the truck would destroy the tires all the way through first gear if i had anything more than 6lbs showing when i let off the brake. Same wheels & tires, same turbo and engine tune, I can now launch the truck with 13lbs on the gauge and just barely skirt the tires out. truck pulls sooooo much better through first and then second isnt as harsh and doesnt feel like it bogs down.

If your dedicated to your truck and wanna be able to have fun with it, its just a matter of what kind of driving you do as to whether you do 4l80e or 400turbo. a lot of street use (like me) 4l80e is fantastic, cruises perfect, shifts nice when your light on it, hard when it needs it (all user programable) and i dont every worry about tranny problems, just check/change the fluid in a timely manner. If its a track/trailer queen the 400 would be just fine. dont need computer comforts, dont need lock up, just need strength and durability... :2cents:
 

myclone

Donating Member
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

ivanko barbell said:
What do you think about the constant upshift/downshift of autox and track day use?

To put it bluntly anything you can do at the track that isnt insane an 80E will laugh at IMO. I dont know about you but none of the company trucks Ive ever driven were shown the slightest mercy and there are plenty of other knuckle heads out there that can be WAY harder than me on a vehicle they arent paying for.

You are the only one that can decide whats best for you and your wallet and a 700 may be more than adequate for what you intend to do. Personally the fun of crossing my fingers that the trans will stay togeather every time I mat the gas has long since worn off.
 

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

At the time I had my 700 built, the 4l80 wasn't a real option yet. People were still in the 700R4 mind set back then. I don't notice 1st gear being "useless" and it got the truck out of the hole quickly. One thing I should note is my 700R4 shifted very differently than a stock Sy. My shift points were closer to 4000 rpm and the rpm's dropped very little between shifts. It almost felt like a sequential transmission.

The reason you didn't find 1st gear useless is because you hadn't pushed the envelope yet. The guys that are really quick just burn the tires off of them and first gear is so short it doesn't do anything for thrusting you forward. Get in a really quick one and you'll know what I'm talking about.

What I would like to do have an opportunity to drive a truck with a properly engineered 4l80 so I can experience it first hand.
What does that mean? If you pick up a 70 pound stock converter and think a syty is gonna spin that, your right. That's why I'm saying, you have to use the correct components. Give it another year if your that worried about it. You will see lots of guys doing it. Firebird/Camaro guys already figured it out. If I were you, I'd just have Brian rebuild it and fix the stuff that broke with new GM stuff. Don't spend big dollars on one off "prototype" stuff. That's silly. Drive the truck and enjoy it.
You keep saying "BG"....That's Brian Green, your talking about BH (Brian Hartman), right?

As far as shifting up and down, there is already a full manual 4L80E setup. That's what guys were using that for. There is also a "command" shift setup where you can downshift to any gear at any time....There is also a "paddle wheel" setup where guys can use the push buttons to shift up and down. You won't hurt it.

Which "powder metal" part did you break? You know the 5 pinion planetaries are powdered metal.

I read your other post a little better and saw where you are running high pressure. You do NOT need to run high pressure for what you are doing. Go with Gen2 blues and a .500 boost valve with some valvebody mods and your parts breakage will go away. Especially with the low power your putting out. I still can't believe $5K went into a 700. I've sold ENTIRE 4L80E setups with everything but the rear driveshaft and they didn't pay that much. What we've found is that the small clutch surface in a drag type upshift only type setup needs higher pressure in a 700. For the upshift up and down stuff, you don't need it. A huge issue for what you are doing is that going back and forth from 3-4 will burn those clutches up because of "double duty". Just not a good design. Going from 3rd to 2nd, you have to continuously stop entire parts of the 700's geartrain. Again, all the slamming is due to components doing double duty. Keep the pressure down so parts don't get the big jolt and you won't break them.
 
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HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

Yeah I hate that feeling. I cringe everytime I hammer the gas pedal after a rebuild. After awhile I got into a false sense of security and then w/o warning boom! Same thing for my tubular suspension in the front. I had 3 PEP failures. I know the new tubular suspension from Samco is stout, but I'm like an abused scared child, it will take some time to gain confidence in my front suspenson again.

myclone said:
To put it bluntly anything you can do at the track that isnt insane an 80E will laugh at IMO. I dont know about you but none of the company trucks Ive ever driven were shown the slightest mercy and there are plenty of other knuckle heads out there that can be WAY harder than me on a vehicle they arent paying for.

You are the only one that can decide whats best for you and your wallet and a 700 may be more than adequate for what you intend to do. Personally the fun of crossing my fingers that the trans will stay togeather every time I mat the gas has long since worn off.
 

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

George Blake said:
The reason you didn't find 1st gear useless is because you hadn't pushed the envelope yet. The guys that are really quick just burn the tires off of them and first gear is so short it doesn't do anything for thrusting you forward. Get in a really quick one and you'll know what I'm talking about.

If I boost anything more than 7 lbs, I can blow the tires out as you described. I couldn't do that with the stock tranny and it become especially easy after replacing the stock A2W with A2A IC.


What does that mean? If you pick up a 70 pound stock converter and think a syty is gonna spin that, your right. That's why I'm saying, you have to use the correct components. Give it another year if your that worried about it. You will see lots of guys doing it. Firebird/Camaro guys already figured it out. If I were you, I'd just have Brian rebuild it and fix the stuff that broke with new GM stuff. Don't spend big dollars on one off "prototype" stuff. That's silly. Drive the truck and enjoy it.

Yes it was the powderd metal planetaries that broke twice. Brian is going to install an older non powdered metal planetary, but he says his trick bearing setup can't be used with it. I can live with that as long as it doesn't break.

You keep saying "BG"....That's Brian Green, your talking about BH (Brian Hartman), right?

Yeah, I meant BH. I have a nasty habit of doing that don't I?

As far as shifting up and down, there is already a full manual 4L80E setup. That's what guys were using that for. There is also a "command" shift setup where you can downshift to any gear at any time....There is also a "paddle wheel" setup where guys can use the push buttons to shift up and down. You won't hurt it.

I really like the ideal of a manual shift w/ paddle shift. You have any detail info on this?

Which "powder metal" part did you break? You know the 5 pinion planetaries are powdered metal.

Yes, thats the part....twice broken!

I read your other post a little better and saw where you are running high pressure. You do NOT need to run high pressure for what you are doing. Go with Gen2 blues and a .500 boost valve with some valvebody mods and your parts breakage will go away. Especially with the low power your putting out. I still can't believe $5K went into a 700. I've sold ENTIRE 4L80E setups with everything but the rear driveshaft and they didn't pay that much. What we've found is that the small clutch surface in a drag type upshift only type setup needs higher pressure in a 700. For the upshift up and down stuff, you don't need it. A huge issue for what you are doing is that going back and forth from 3-4 will burn those clutches up because of "double duty". Just not a good design. Going from 3rd to 2nd, you have to continuously stop entire parts of the 700's geartrain. Again, all the slamming is due to components doing double duty. Keep the pressure down so parts don't get the big jolt and you won't break them.

I'll talk to Brian about lowering the pressure. The $4950 on the receipt was for an HHP Stage VI+ Racing 4l60 Transmission, $595.00 for the billet TC. Keep in mind I traded Brian about $2500.00 worth of McIntosh Car Amplifiers, Sony Mobile ES stereo components and some other high end speakers which the brand name eludes me at the moment.
....
 

Syborg Twin Turbo

Syborg Twin Turbo
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

jump on the pro-touring forumn or the lateral-g forum and you will see a bunch of info on the "Shifters" set up. He is also a sponsor on both sites
 

HighPerformanceTrucks

Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Tranny grenaded again (6th rebuild)

Wow! A 4l80 manual shift paddle shift?

Please quote me a price for the conversion parts to fit a 4l80E to the Sy.

If I'm going to build a motor to higher hp then this may be the way to go anyway.

Now if only I could figure out how to rack and pinion my truck!

JS Manufacturing said:
 
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