Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
- Thread starter dgoodhue
- Start date
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
Here is the heads being installed. The thing in the middle is the balance shaft, I never knew what look like before. I used Cometic Headgaskets and ARP Bolt. I torqued them to 75ft-lbs. I stretch the ARP bolt by torque them down 4 times.
That is it for today, I will try to update this as finish this project up.
Here is the heads being installed. The thing in the middle is the balance shaft, I never knew what look like before. I used Cometic Headgaskets and ARP Bolt. I torqued them to 75ft-lbs. I stretch the ARP bolt by torque them down 4 times.
That is it for today, I will try to update this as finish this project up.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
I am told that it should. I am pretty sure our stock Oil pan are 4x4 Oil pans. I have some doubts that the wing on the driverside will clear the Propshaft.
I am told that it should. I am pretty sure our stock Oil pan are 4x4 Oil pans. I have some doubts that the wing on the driverside will clear the Propshaft.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
The cast aluminum Vortec Oil Pan (and 96 and later block) has a different bolt pattern. Its a lot easier to fit the try to make our originals to fit. The advantages are strength and they are also baffled. I wouldn't bother try to retrofit one to the original SyTy block.
The cast aluminum Vortec Oil Pan (and 96 and later block) has a different bolt pattern. Its a lot easier to fit the try to make our originals to fit. The advantages are strength and they are also baffled. I wouldn't bother try to retrofit one to the original SyTy block.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
I got around having the Oil Pump pick up tig welded.
I button up timing cover, torqued the oil pan down and installed the balancer.
I almost got ahead of myself and installed the lower intake, but I remembered the last minute that I need to get some allen bolts for the old Vortec intake holes. I will run out tomorrow and get those. It looks like I should have the body reunited with a motor this week :tup: I still have a bunch little things to do though.
I got around having the Oil Pump pick up tig welded.
I button up timing cover, torqued the oil pan down and installed the balancer.
I almost got ahead of myself and installed the lower intake, but I remembered the last minute that I need to get some allen bolts for the old Vortec intake holes. I will run out tomorrow and get those. It looks like I should have the body reunited with a motor this week :tup: I still have a bunch little things to do though.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
Its a GM casting but I thought I would have been alright since its a 2003. I think your right, I looked through my picture and I think its the weaker casting though :rant:
Its a GM casting but I thought I would have been alright since its a 2003. I think your right, I looked through my picture and I think its the weaker casting though :rant:
It's just a six
Super Member
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
Hope you removed the relief spring in the housing first, before the welding.???
Hope you removed the relief spring in the housing first, before the welding.???
I got around having the Oil Pump pick up tig welded.
I button up timing cover, torqued the oil pan down and installed the balancer.
I almost got ahead of myself and installed the lower intake, but I remembered the last minute that I need to get some allen bolts for the old Vortec intake holes. I will run out tomorrow and get those. It looks like I should have the body reunited with a motor this week :tup: I still have a bunch little things to do though.
![Quickstop [UK]](/data/avatars/m/5/5165.jpg?1570199786){kind=avatar}
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
It looks like you are at the exact spot I will be at when I get back in about 53 days. Can you post up the little things that you mentioned?
I am paranoid about small fittings and hoses that I will need from the states that I can't get over here.
For exampkle, I have ordered all the engine sensors I can think of for this build and would love to know what else holds you up so I have a fighting chance of building mine!
Great job mate and good luck - subscribing! :tup:
I got around having the Oil Pump pick up tig welded.
I button up timing cover, torqued the oil pan down and installed the balancer.
I almost got ahead of myself and installed the lower intake, but I remembered the last minute that I need to get some allen bolts for the old Vortec intake holes. I will run out tomorrow and get those. It looks like I should have the body reunited with a motor this week :tup: I still have a bunch little things to do though.
It looks like you are at the exact spot I will be at when I get back in about 53 days. Can you post up the little things that you mentioned?
I am paranoid about small fittings and hoses that I will need from the states that I can't get over here.
For exampkle, I have ordered all the engine sensors I can think of for this build and would love to know what else holds you up so I have a fighting chance of building mine!
Great job mate and good luck - subscribing! :tup:
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
:boink: I had it tig welded (puts less heat into the casting than braising), I removed anywyas it before I went to the machine shop just incase.
:boink: I had it tig welded (puts less heat into the casting than braising), I removed anywyas it before I went to the machine shop just incase.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
I went to my local hardware store and bought some 5/16 -18 allen set screws.
I used red locite and set them flush in the head
I use a little RTV around the coolant ports and head corners and waited a couple minutes to for it to set. I aligned the Felpro 1203 gaskets with the intake ports of the intake.
I applied a bead of RTV on the f\ront and rear oil valley walls and torqued down the intake.
I ran into a problem with 3 of the 4 corners bolts. The Vortec holes weren't drilled far enough for the factory bolt/stud, I used regular intake bolts. I am going to cut down the factory bolts 3 or 4 theads so I can use them for AC bracket and Coil/Map Brackets. I will just relocated the Head ground bolt/stud.
I went to my local hardware store and bought some 5/16 -18 allen set screws.
I used red locite and set them flush in the head
I use a little RTV around the coolant ports and head corners and waited a couple minutes to for it to set. I aligned the Felpro 1203 gaskets with the intake ports of the intake.
I applied a bead of RTV on the f\ront and rear oil valley walls and torqued down the intake.
I ran into a problem with 3 of the 4 corners bolts. The Vortec holes weren't drilled far enough for the factory bolt/stud, I used regular intake bolts. I am going to cut down the factory bolts 3 or 4 theads so I can use them for AC bracket and Coil/Map Brackets. I will just relocated the Head ground bolt/stud.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
I started adding the sensors, here is the instrument coolant sensor on the drivers head.
I put in a oil pressure sensor and the studs and bolts for the back of the head so I don't forget them (or their location)
Put in the ECM coolant sensor, Knock sensor and Thermostat (I later torque that down). I put in studs for the water pump install. I realized that I need to buy new water pump gaskets.
I am know its not the normal location for the knock sensor. I had already done this before and the Vortec block is not drilled for our style of knock sensor. Another option for installing the knock sensor in Vortec Block (beside drill and tapping the block) is to use th ecoolant port plug on the driverside and extending the wiring
I started adding the sensors, here is the instrument coolant sensor on the drivers head.
I put in a oil pressure sensor and the studs and bolts for the back of the head so I don't forget them (or their location)
Put in the ECM coolant sensor, Knock sensor and Thermostat (I later torque that down). I put in studs for the water pump install. I realized that I need to buy new water pump gaskets.
I am know its not the normal location for the knock sensor. I had already done this before and the Vortec block is not drilled for our style of knock sensor. Another option for installing the knock sensor in Vortec Block (beside drill and tapping the block) is to use th ecoolant port plug on the driverside and extending the wiring
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
I am going to slowed down a little on this project for a couple of days. My wife is taking off two day (and almost nothing gets down in the garage with her around). I ordered a new Melling Select Oil Pump, and I have order at my GM dealer for a new Oil Pan gasket as well as few other misc pieces.
Once I get the new Oil Pump, I will install it along with the water pump, dip stick & exhaust manifolds, then I will install the long block into my Syclone. I will assemble the rest of the parts with the engine in place.
I am going to slowed down a little on this project for a couple of days. My wife is taking off two day (and almost nothing gets down in the garage with her around). I ordered a new Melling Select Oil Pump, and I have order at my GM dealer for a new Oil Pan gasket as well as few other misc pieces.
Once I get the new Oil Pump, I will install it along with the water pump, dip stick & exhaust manifolds, then I will install the long block into my Syclone. I will assemble the rest of the parts with the engine in place.
It's just a six
Super Member
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
The cylinder heads looks pretty good.
What did they flow?
The cylinder heads looks pretty good.
What did they flow?
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap
Off the top of my head, 240cfm intake and almost 200cfm exhaust.
Off the top of my head, 240cfm intake and almost 200cfm exhaust.
