Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

[SY2932]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

Looking GREAT ! I hope to have as many pics as you when I do my swap. If things work out, I will be able to build up my motor without removing the motor that's in the truck currently... That would be nice since it will keep me from doing a frame up overhaul :lol:.

 

[kraus]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

what is all need for the votech head swap reason I ask is I got a junk 4.3 at work rod knock that I can have for nothing, am thinking of swapping heads and stuff on to wifes ty this winter.will intake and stuff still bolt or is it different all together etc....don't mean to jack the thread looks good definetly will be keeping an eye on progress...

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

How did you modify, re-drill, the heads for the Sy intake? Or did I miss that post somewhere?

I didn't post it, becuase I didn't do that work. I bought the intake 3 or 4 years ago from Turbotime, I believe the intake was done by Jeff Scott. (the intake was extended with a plate for tall Vortec ports) I lightly ported the intake myself. The vortec heads were redrilled to the syty pattern.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

what is all need for the votech head swap

Heads need to be redrilled. The most common route to deal with mismatch of the taller Vortec ports, is to have the lower intake extended (ie welded).

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

I got slowed down waiting for a melling select oil pump and some gaskets. So off comes the oil pan again, here is the stock weak 2003 GM oil pump.

I had the Vortec drill & tapped for the LB4 mounting holes for the oil dip stick and wire looms, I use thread sealer on the bolts since they are tapped into the coolant passages.

I bought a Vortec Oil Fill Extension & Can, mount the exhaust manifolds, install the spark plugs, mounted the balancer & Crank Pulley. The waterpump is sitting while I wait to figure out what to do about the 3rd passage. I was going to mount the flywheel, but I can't with engine stand. Otherwise the engine is assemble as far I plan before being install in the truck, where I finish up the install.

I could install the motor tomorrow but I am going to dust off the engine compartment from 2 years of dust. I will probably install it on monday.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

Its in in their! I started installing on tuesday, but I stopped after getting frustrated. The transmission being installed was creating some problems with aligin the motor mounts to the frame pad, the motor wasn't sitting flush the transmission. After a couple dozen tries, I realized I really need to go underneath and work getting that aligned. I went to look for the transmission bolts and I couldn't find them. I found every other bag of bolts nicely labeled. I decided it was enough for that day.

Today I went back out, and shortly found the bag among my pile of parts in the bed of truck. I went under the truck and with little effort, I got the transmission pins to align. One lift of the motor and motor dropped right onto the motor mounts.

I can see that, I made one mistake already. I left the remote oil filter lines in the truck. I should have taken them out and install them on the stand. I was good and tied them up, but once I thought I had everything in pace and needing just a little tweak, I untied them. They ineveitable got wedge and tweaked and I can't easily bent them to shape in the truck and bolt up the adapter. I probably wouldalso leave the drivers exhuast manfold off next time, it would make it easier to clear the factory fuel line.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

Not much progress has been made. I ended up catching and bending the remote oil filter lines when putting the motor in (I left them in the truck as oposed to bolting them to the engine.) I also lost the remote oil filter adpater bolts. I order them and they should be in any day now.

I have been lacking motivation lately to work on my truck, I haven't done any work on it in the last 2 weeks, beside pull out the remote filter lines and look fpr the missing bolts). Today, I finally got around to pull the motor again. Anyways don't forget the remote oil filter line before you put the motor in.

 

[4C FED]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

So you're not going to use the spin-on adapter that was already in the block?

Also, although you're already past that point, I would have removed the oil bypass valve in the block & plugged it.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

So you're not going to use the spin-on adapter that was already in the block?

Also, although you're already past that point, I would have removed the oil bypass valve in the block & plugged it.

No. I am not using the spin on adapter. Yeah I am already past that point, but where is the oil bypass valve in the block?

 

[4C FED]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

No. I am not using the spin on adapter. Yeah I am already past that point, but where is the oil bypass valve in the block?

See where the spin-on adpater is in the block? The hole to the right is the bypass valve. Pry it out, thread it & uinstall a plug with loc-tite. Next time around......

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

My motor is back in, again. I had to remove the motor to unbend and put the remote oil filter lines back in.

I lost the remote oil filter bolts. I ordered new set from GM, only to accident over torque them and have to buy another set. The remote oil filter adapter to oil line are 26 ft-lbs of torque the remote oil filter adapter to the block is 15 ft-lbs. The grade of bolt will continuously stretch (Imagine until the bolt breaks) when trying to torque the addition 11 ft-lbs, I probably turn the bolts about 3 revolutions past 15 ft-lbs, before I knew something was wrong.

It bolted the motoro to the motor mounts and transmission. Also before installing, I added the turbo oil feed line. I would highly recommending bolt the oil filter lines and turbo feed lines to the block before installing.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

I started bolting everything up underneath the engine and I ran into a problem. The flywheel bolts holes (vortec) don't line up with my original torque converter. Their is a hole that looks like it will work but their isn't 3 of them. So the flywheel has to come out. I am thinking about pulling the transmission this time instead of the motor. My original plan was to swap motor to get it up and running, start tuning it, then swap torque converter and the transmission I am rebuilding.

 

[ffmeltdown]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

Just wanted to say thanks for writing this up Dave. :tup:
Respectfully,
Tom

 

[Quickstop [UK]]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

Dave,

I appreciate the detail you have gone into here! Keep up the good work and good luck with it. I am following it closely!

Mark

 

[E-Rue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

this is a late model ballance shaft motor right? the flexplate not only has the wrong bolt pattern but it has the wrong thrust position as well..... at least as far as i know. i believe the converter would be pushed into the trans too far, and the starter bendix would be off. i have always used a stock syty plate or an aftermarket one. we have to elongate the mounting holes in the starter to use the original flexplate but i think its necessary. i dont know of any available "conversion" flexplates, but someone probably makes something that will give ya a bolt on option if you search.

e

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

I didn't work on my truck for close to 3 weeks. My wife and I were seperated for a couple weeks (I spent time with my parents). I started a new job today so I won't have as much time either.

I am going to pull the tranny to swap the flywheel (to my original Sy flywheel) and elongate the Vortec Starter to deal with the Vortec flywheel bolt pattern mismatch. I sent off my 9/11 TC to be restalled as well.

This past weekend I install the accessories, exhaust crossover, the grounds and braces on the back of the heads. I am holding off on install the upper intake/distributor until swap the tranny. I am going to have to do something about my transmission lines to tie them closer to the engine. They are resting on the exhuast crossover pipe.

 

[NecroWolf]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

i didn't have a problem with my vortec motor swap with the flex plate. i did need the newer starter but i didn't have to elongate any holes.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

I bolted up the turbo and ran into a couple of issues, the coolant fitting doesn't come anywhere close to fitting with the AC Bracket and one of the bolts that hold the compressor housing together hits the AC bracket. I bought a used A/C Bracket so I can grind it to find around that bolt and I am going try one of the solution in this thread. http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=51695&highlight=

I am also having my 9/11 TC restalled and I am going to change my Transmission lines to tbraided lines. Not a lot of progress but I started a new job, weather is colder, and I am working on the small details.

 

[Aeroking]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

mine is close too. my turbo lays on the A/C bracket.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Top End Removal/Vortec Swap

I put in a few hours in on my truck today. My wife has the camera so I didn't take any pictures yet.

I bought a spare AC bracket so that I could grind down and keep my original. I clean it up and notched it for the turbo compressor housing bolt. Unfortunately when I went to installed I found out someone screw up the thread one of bracket hole. I will have to get a die and tap to attempt to fix it.

I bought an adapter for 034 motorsport for the tight fitting Coolant Line next to the A/C Compressor, but the Banjo bolt they supplied is a different thread than my PTE Turbo. So I need to find solution for that. (I looked over 034 Motorsports website, I potentially they may hvae sent me the wrong part.)


I fitted my McCoy A2A intercooler so I could clock my turbo properly but the upper pipe doesn't fit (will need some customization) and interfere's with the Oil Dipstick. The one good thing came of today is my Turbo Actuator lines right and won't need to be rewelded (I expect it would be.).