rear coilovers
- Thread starter elorejas
- Start date
Overkill
Member
red typhoon
Member
Re: rear coilovers
http://thorbros.com/catalog/4-link-kits
This is intended for the lowered crowd, but they have weld in and bolt in 3 link (like the one above) and weld in 4 link kits. In the pic above, the coilovers are simply mounted to the lower link bolt and the factory upper mount. A little fab work and I think these kits could work with coilovers. And they are readily available. Just my :2cents:
http://thorbros.com/catalog/4-link-kits
This is intended for the lowered crowd, but they have weld in and bolt in 3 link (like the one above) and weld in 4 link kits. In the pic above, the coilovers are simply mounted to the lower link bolt and the factory upper mount. A little fab work and I think these kits could work with coilovers. And they are readily available. Just my :2cents:
pearl91chevy
Donating Member
Re: rear coilovers
Can't wait for the typhoon kit to come out
Can't wait for the typhoon kit to come out
JSM
Active member
Re: rear coilovers
My only word of caution on putting a new suspension on the back of any car, is to understand the physics of what you are doing. It amazes me at some of the low rider suspension designs, and although some look cool, for a performance application they just plain are horrible geometry and can be flat dangerous.
Cruising the local waterfront going 5mph, as you bags are lowered, scrapping your metal plate on the ground it probably does just fine.
Go to the track and run 100mph, and let me know so I can avoid being anywhere near you.
Before anyone invests money, do basic google searching on 4 link geometry, instant center, roll center, anti dive, pinion angle. No need to be an expert but get some knowledge before you spend your hard earned dollars on something that might be total junk.
My only word of caution on putting a new suspension on the back of any car, is to understand the physics of what you are doing. It amazes me at some of the low rider suspension designs, and although some look cool, for a performance application they just plain are horrible geometry and can be flat dangerous.
Cruising the local waterfront going 5mph, as you bags are lowered, scrapping your metal plate on the ground it probably does just fine.
Go to the track and run 100mph, and let me know so I can avoid being anywhere near you.
Before anyone invests money, do basic google searching on 4 link geometry, instant center, roll center, anti dive, pinion angle. No need to be an expert but get some knowledge before you spend your hard earned dollars on something that might be total junk.
hatrik8
Donating Member
Re: rear coilovers
Can a rear sway bar be utilized? or is it not needed?
I have the beltech front and rear sway bars on my truck now.
Here is the Sportmachines kit bolted in my syclone kit is great and a beautiful piece, as far as I know they are available as I'm pretty sure I have the first kit released to the public
Can a rear sway bar be utilized? or is it not needed?
I have the beltech front and rear sway bars on my truck now.
JSM
Active member
Re: rear coilovers
To add a bit more, the basics of any rear suspension is the Instant Center. Below is a very basic graph. Compare it to any design you see listed anywhere.
Ladder bars are the front pivot point.
Leaf springs are also (usually)
A lot of low rider suspensions totally disregard this, you will see the instant center behind the vehicle, which for drag racing is not a good thing. I've done it on my own typhoon on accident, it spun badly at the track, I thumped my chest thinking I was making a ton of horsepower, the track sucked, etc. It wasn't any of those it was the setup of my suspension.
This site has good information a beginner can understand.
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/tuning-4-link.html
Now for those wanting to race around turns/cones etc then Roll Center plays a big part, something even my own typhoon could stand to be adjusted right now. (of course it has to run first)
To add a bit more, the basics of any rear suspension is the Instant Center. Below is a very basic graph. Compare it to any design you see listed anywhere.
Ladder bars are the front pivot point.
Leaf springs are also (usually)
A lot of low rider suspensions totally disregard this, you will see the instant center behind the vehicle, which for drag racing is not a good thing. I've done it on my own typhoon on accident, it spun badly at the track, I thumped my chest thinking I was making a ton of horsepower, the track sucked, etc. It wasn't any of those it was the setup of my suspension.
This site has good information a beginner can understand.
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/tuning-4-link.html
Now for those wanting to race around turns/cones etc then Roll Center plays a big part, something even my own typhoon could stand to be adjusted right now. (of course it has to run first)
JSM
Active member
Re: rear coilovers
Ok, if you can't tell I have a big passion for this topic.
Below is a video that shows what happens when the Instant Center is in front of the neutral line. (or I can assume most cars are setup that way)
Now lets compare this to a buick GNX (must be GNX as they added a bar to move the Instant Center behind the neutral line). The rear of the car actually move UP not DOWN.
Fast Forward to 19:30 Minutes into this video
So the next question I have asked a lot, and done a lot of thinking about is what does an AWD vehicle need. My best theory is we want the IC right on the neutral line, or just barely in front. Being we have the front tires pulling, we don't need to waste time/energy of the car moving backwards and benefit more from keeping all 4 planted evenly. (This is my opinion and I have had well known suspension expert tend to agree).
Ok, if you can't tell I have a big passion for this topic.
Below is a video that shows what happens when the Instant Center is in front of the neutral line. (or I can assume most cars are setup that way)
Now lets compare this to a buick GNX (must be GNX as they added a bar to move the Instant Center behind the neutral line). The rear of the car actually move UP not DOWN.
Fast Forward to 19:30 Minutes into this video
So the next question I have asked a lot, and done a lot of thinking about is what does an AWD vehicle need. My best theory is we want the IC right on the neutral line, or just barely in front. Being we have the front tires pulling, we don't need to waste time/energy of the car moving backwards and benefit more from keeping all 4 planted evenly. (This is my opinion and I have had well known suspension expert tend to agree).
Last edited:
JSM
Active member
Re: rear coilovers
I don't know honestly. Have not seen one installed on a running driving truck.
I don't know honestly. Have not seen one installed on a running driving truck.
ZavzTy547
Senior Member
Windedv6
Ty n 10s
Re: rear coilovers
Jeff is correct on this...
Back in 2006 I posted this when I did my rear coilovers...
The setup has been great for 60's and it corners like its on rails. The bars are mounted on the outboard side of the rails and I have the 315 tire setup with no clearance issues. The shocks still maintain the original location pocket and Typhoon fuel tank stays in the original location.
If you watch my videos at launch, it comes out smooth and straight. Barely any lift at all in the front and little to no squat in the rear.
John
To add a bit more, the basics of any rear suspension is the Instant Center. Below is a very basic graph. Compare it to any design you see listed anywhere.
Ladder bars are the front pivot point.
Leaf springs are also (usually)
A lot of low rider suspensions totally disregard this, you will see the instant center behind the vehicle, which for drag racing is not a good thing. I've done it on my own typhoon on accident, it spun badly at the track, I thumped my chest thinking I was making a ton of horsepower, the track sucked, etc. It wasn't any of those it was the setup of my suspension.
This site has good information a beginner can understand.
http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/tuning-4-link.html
Now for those wanting to race around turns/cones etc then Roll Center plays a big part, something even my own typhoon could stand to be adjusted right now. (of course it has to run first)
Jeff is correct on this...
Back in 2006 I posted this when I did my rear coilovers...
The setup has been great for 60's and it corners like its on rails. The bars are mounted on the outboard side of the rails and I have the 315 tire setup with no clearance issues. The shocks still maintain the original location pocket and Typhoon fuel tank stays in the original location.
If you watch my videos at launch, it comes out smooth and straight. Barely any lift at all in the front and little to no squat in the rear.
John