Project 92 Ty begins...

2500avalanche

2500avalanche

Well-known member
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

warmpancakes said:
brazing might work, but there are Much better options out there, also be sure to clean the inside of the roof good and apply a epoxy paint (real epoxy not the rattle can junk) so PPG makes a excellent metal prep and rest preventaive but I cant think of the name right now
Click to expand...

Do you mean clean and apply the epoxy to the inside (cab area) of it?
 
warmpancakes

warmpancakes

New member
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

yep the underside of the roof, the welding will be bare metal I would use a roloc disk of 80 or 120 grit then brush the epoxy on, to coat it well
 
2500avalanche

2500avalanche

Well-known member
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

warmpancakes said:
yep the underside of the roof, the welding will be bare metal I would use a roloc disk of 80 or 120 grit then brush the epoxy on, to coat it well
Click to expand...

Cool, I got it now. I wonder if I should use like a POR 15 on it? I have had good success with that stuff before...
 
Ruddell

Ruddell

Member
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

Sounds like your leaning towards shaving the rack. Good choice, I dout you will ever find your self saying damb I wish I had a rack on the Ty!
 
2500avalanche

2500avalanche

Well-known member
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

Ok, so today I took out the headliner and all the plastic to get ready to remove the windows. Here are some pics. Happy to see no rust or anything like that!
100_2693.jpg

100_2694.jpg

100_2695.jpg

100_2696.jpg

100_2698.jpg

100_2700.jpg
 
2500avalanche

2500avalanche

Well-known member
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

Alright, I got a day off work, and had a local window place come up, and take out the windows, and he didn't break any!
Found one spot of rust (there is a hole in the body), and a weird hole (not rust, but looks like a screw driver went through it) above the drivers door gasket. How do you think I can fill the rust hole? I am thinking a quick cut, and patch with a mig welder, but any hints would be great! I think that it isn't that bad considering its age!
100_2727.jpg

100_2729.jpg

100_2736.jpg
[/IMG]
100_2730.jpg

100_2741.jpg

100_2739.jpg

100_2738.jpg

And the weird hole above the door
100_2737.jpg
 
S

s_blazin

Donating Member
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

i dig the red, gray cladding and blackish wheels better, gives it a cool and different look. just me though. good luck on the project, keep on wrenchin.

mighta looked even cooler with the wheels matching the cladding, never know
 
Beavis

Beavis

Still plays with trucks
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

Typhoons were built in Pontiac Michigan (rust belt). So many of them came pre-installed with rust. Hope you enjoy that extra option that wasn't in the brochure. :tup:
 
T

turboj91

New member
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

How are you going to strip the paint off the vehicle to expose all the rust. You will prob find that both areas you provided photos for will have a larger rust profile once the paint is removed. There are many choices on how to fill the holes and some depend on how big they end up to be. Best bet to strip the paint is with a media blast (soda blast is awesome when done properly) and then sand blast the rusted area as the soda will not touch it. Brazing is old school and is subject to shrinkage or sinking down the road. That procedure went away in the 80's. Small holes can be filled with two part epoxy. Place masking tape on the back side and push a small amount thru the hole and sand it from there and don't forget to pull off the tape. There should only be a small nipple on the back side. There are so many two part epoxy choices. Check with a SEM supplier. They have everything from bumper repair type to panel bond and quick set, slow set ect... I happen to like Select-A-Bond #2025 from Radtec USA out of South Windsor CT. This aforementioned product seems to take the place of about 15 products from SEM and it fits in their gun as well. Works on cladding as well. Tough as hel#. You'll break something else before the epoxy breaks. If you soda blast anything that is not rusted, the surface is left baby butt smooth and will need to be properly washed to neutralize the soda residue, then clean the panel (can acutally use 409) and scuff it up to give it teeth for the primer to stick to. You can use 409 with a red scotch brite and scrub very well to get the "teeth", rinse with water, dry with a super clean towel and dry air in any corners. Then apply an acid etch primer to the area that was just prepped then you can do any body work over that and then use a quality high build urethane primer and dry block it. Then your ready for paint. Lots of work for a complete repaint. Have fun.
 
2500avalanche

2500avalanche

Well-known member
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

I was thinking of just cutting it out and welding in a new piece. I think that is the way to go
turboj91 said:
How are you going to strip the paint off the vehicle to expose all the rust. You will prob find that both areas you provided photos for will have a larger rust profile once the paint is removed. There are many choices on how to fill the holes and some depend on how big they end up to be. Best bet to strip the paint is with a media blast (soda blast is awesome when done properly) and then sand blast the rusted area as the soda will not touch it. Brazing is old school and is subject to shrinkage or sinking down the road. That procedure went away in the 80's. Small holes can be filled with two part epoxy. Place masking tape on the back side and push a small amount thru the hole and sand it from there and don't forget to pull off the tape. There should only be a small nipple on the back side. There are so many two part epoxy choices. Check with a SEM supplier. They have everything from bumper repair type to panel bond and quick set, slow set ect... I happen to like Select-A-Bond #2025 from Radtec USA out of South Windsor CT. This aforementioned product seems to take the place of about 15 products from SEM and it fits in their gun as well. Works on cladding as well. Tough as hel#. You'll break something else before the epoxy breaks. If you soda blast anything that is not rusted, the surface is left baby butt smooth and will need to be properly washed to neutralize the soda residue, then clean the panel (can acutally use 409) and scuff it up to give it teeth for the primer to stick to. You can use 409 with a red scotch brite and scrub very well to get the "teeth", rinse with water, dry with a super clean towel and dry air in any corners. Then apply an acid etch primer to the area that was just prepped then you can do any body work over that and then use a quality high build urethane primer and dry block it. Then your ready for paint. Lots of work for a complete repaint. Have fun.
Click to expand...
 
2500avalanche

2500avalanche

Well-known member
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

Ok, So today I got a lot done..
My wife is 9 mnths pregnant, and due on Monday, so it has been crazy here

I took the damn roof rack off, and ground down the places where it f'ed up the roof
FromCamera123.jpg

FromCamera125.jpg


whats left of the roof rack, actually everything is there except 1 chrome strip
FromCamera126.jpg


took my Lower mount intercooler off, and put the one by Dutch Ty on for a test fit
FromCamera127.jpg

and realized I had a sureflow pump
FromCamera130.jpg


Here is the date from the original intercooler
FromCamera128.jpg
 
Spnknu

Spnknu

Member
Re: Project 92 Ty begins...

Wheels8lug007-1.jpg


just looks mean right there...what did happen to those rims?

good work, keep it up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top