My 1992 Gmc Typhoon

Man started working at 10am and stopped at 8pm. Here's the list of what I replaced. Will add pictures after I get some rest.

Torsion bar mounts
Transmission mount
Upper and lower control arms on both sides
Front shocks
Sway bar bushings
Pit man arm, idler arm, steering box, steering shaft
Inner and outer tie rods and adjusting sleeves
Resealed oil filter bypass plate on the block
Replaced oil cooler line
Replaced power steering pump
Did a driveway alignment.

I'm tired and need to rest now. Haha
 
The underside is pretty clean for the milage, nice to have a California car.
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Yanked all the suspension and steering components out of the front. Even though the steering shaft felt perfect I got a jeep unit to throw in to tighten everything up
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And then just reassembled. Luckily the car is very clean and pretty dry underneath. The typical gm surface rust is there but absolutely 0 rot

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The oil cooler line was a little tricky but with the power steering pump out of the way it was super super easy.

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making good progress! that front end isn't an easy feat
Yea no kidding! The front sway bar was a bit interesting reinstalling. I've never dealt with a sway bar like that so it was a bit of a learning curve! Next is motor mounts, I got the JTR mounts because I've had solid mounts in the past and am not a fan of them for a driver. It has a rear sway bar on it and the endlinks are totally destroyed and I can't for the life of me figure out what sway bar it is so I'm going to make some bushings for the rear or get rid of it. It's definitely aftermarket. The muffler is full of holes so I'm going to do that as well. I believe the shifter cable may be broken because the car drives fine but it when you pull it down to 2 and 1 it almost feels like it's stuck between gears. When I service the transmission I'm going to check and make sure the detents are lining up properly. You hear a very faint clicking in m1. The front drive shaft boot is ripped so Im going to look for a good used drive shaft or just get one made for it.
 

gmemony2

Active member
Are these the mounts, 4wd version, you're using? I need mounts and was leaning towards these.

I'll be really interested to know how it goes taking out the old mounts and installing these.

 
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yea i got the 4x4 ones as per the numerous threads i found online. looking at my mounts currently they are not in terrible shape but i would like to just replace all the rubber on the car. I marked the torsion bar bolts before removal and with replacing all the suspension components the car was extremely high in the front. which is kinda nice knowing that the bushings and other parts made such a massive difference.
 
I just purchased a set of these as well. I have a brand new - "original styled" Chinesium ones currently bolted to my block but boy-o-boy the metal's thin around the bolt holes. Just shy of 5/32. I was considering reinstalling my original until I read the above posts. Thanks guys
 

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gmemony2

Active member
I just purchased a set of these as well. I have a brand new - "original styled" Chinesium ones currently bolted to my block but boy-o-boy the metal's thin around the bolt holes. Just shy of 5/32. I was considering reinstalling my original until I read the above posts. Thanks guys
Did you already get these JTR ones? How does the quality look?
 

DaveP's Ghost

Well-known member
The rear sway bar is a Bell-Tech. Get rid of the POS. They clang and bang, poor installation design. And I never understood a rear sway bar on these anyway. AWD under-steers like a MoFo under power. A rear sway bar makes under-steer WORSE. Why would one do that?
 
The rear sway bar is a Bell-Tech. Get rid of the POS. They clang and bang, poor installation design. And I never understood a rear sway bar on these anyway. AWD under-steers like a MoFo under power. A rear sway bar makes under-steer WORSE. Why would one do that?
Yea, i totally agree, i already took it off. on most of my cars i take the rear bars off anyway.
 

QWERTYphoon

Motley Driver Award 2009
The rear sway bar is a Bell-Tech. Get rid of the POS. They clang and bang, poor installation design. And I never understood a rear sway bar on these anyway. AWD under-steers like a MoFo under power. A rear sway bar makes under-steer WORSE. Why would one do that?

What set-up would you recommend, say 450hp? Cheap and easy. please and thank you!
 
Here are the JTR mounts they look pretty nice and sturdy.

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I've been trying to figure out what to do with the wheel situation ever since I got this car. The stock wheels are chrome plated and the plating is flaking on all four wheels and they are starting to get some corrosion buildup as well. The zr1 wheels I have need to be refinished as well and need new tires. I have looked for wheels near or somewhat near me and they are pretty tough to come by. I reached out to alot of wheel shops about stripping the chrome and refinishing the wheels but no dice so far.

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As you can see they look terrible. The wheels are very straight which is nice.

So I jumped on Craigslist and facebook market place and looked for a few hours and I landed on these.

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Upon closer inspection they look very similarly designed to the typhoon wheels. The wheel center looks the same and the 2 piece welded design looks familiar too. So I called the guy and he told me 50 bucks for all of them if I can and grabbed them today. Perfect, even if they don't stay on the car they will get me by for a little bit. I brought a ty cap just incase to check.

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They fit perfect on there. Not only that the wheels clear the front axle stub. These were the most OEM looking wheels I could find. I haven't been able to find any pictures of anyone else using these. So I hope it's helpful! They are from a 89 Corvette. 56mm offset all around, 17x9.5, 1 inch wheel spacer needed in the rear

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wildphil

I Love My Ty's
Man started working at 10am and stopped at 8pm. Here's the list of what I replaced. Will add pictures after I get some rest.

Torsion bar mounts
Transmission mount
Upper and lower control arms on both sides
Front shocks
Sway bar bushings
Pit man arm, idler arm, steering box, steering shaft
Inner and outer tie rods and adjusting sleeves
Resealed oil filter bypass plate on the block
Replaced oil cooler line
Replaced power steering pump
Did a driveway alignment.

I'm tired and need to rest now. Haha
You work a lot faster than I do. As slow as I am, that would probably be a weeks worth of work with me doing it.
 
You work a lot faster than I do. As slow as I am, that would probably be a weeks worth of work with me doing it.
It sure helps having access to a lift, I just really want to start driving it, i also have another car that needs to occupy its spot so there is that motivation as well.
 
those zr1's look great on there
they really do, they have a bit of corrosion and need some work, the c4 wheels in the last picture are in really good shape and are going to the powdercoater tomorrow, i managed to get that chrome plating off the centercaps which took a few hours. i didnt want to use any acidic chemicals on them, luckily the chrome had lifted in some spots on all of the caps so i bolted the caps to the wheels and used our diesel powered steam cleaner at work and went to town on them, amazingly i was able to blow about 80% of the chrome off the cap faces with just the steam cleaner. I spent the rest of the time with a razor blade and chipped away all the remaining chrome. i ordered tires last night and will be gone for the weekend so hopefully next week i can do some shake down driving in it! Then after that its off to the paint shop for the cladding and touch up on the roof and cowl.
 

syclone0517

Member
Here are the JTR mounts they look pretty nice and sturdy.

sN4i57h.jpg


l4KC0HA.jpg


I've been trying to figure out what to do with the wheel situation ever since I got this car. The stock wheels are chrome plated and the plating is flaking on all four wheels and they are starting to get some corrosion buildup as well. The zr1 wheels I have need to be refinished as well and need new tires. I have looked for wheels near or somewhat near me and they are pretty tough to come by. I reached out to alot of wheel shops about stripping the chrome and refinishing the wheels but no dice so far.

FtSwkx7.jpg


kw0AQ8G.jpg


hhQCz9G.jpg


As you can see they look terrible. The wheels are very straight which is nice.

So I jumped on Craigslist and facebook market place and looked for a few hours and I landed on these.

304CW8i.png


Upon closer inspection they look very similarly designed to the typhoon wheels. The wheel center looks the same and the 2 piece welded design looks familiar too. So I called the guy and he told me 50 bucks for all of them if I can and grabbed them today. Perfect, even if they don't stay on the car they will get me by for a little bit. I brought a ty cap just incase to check.

PGUplMo.jpg


fvRd0xb.jpg


They fit perfect on there. Not only that the wheels clear the front axle stub. These were the most OEM looking wheels I could find. I haven't been able to find any pictures of anyone else using these. So I hope it's helpful! They are from a 89 Corvette. 56mm offset all around, 17x9.5, 1 inch wheel spacer needed in the rear

mEwjAzp.jpg


e5Xrd1W.jpg
I like the salad shooters! Especially for the fact that you can use our GMC hub caps. Even better would be if you could find ZR1 versions with 17X11 rears, and you wouldn't need spacers. Zr1 salad shooters are hard to find. Looking good! Best of luck
 
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