Josh's Syclone build thread

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
Looks like this forum site is slowing gaining traction and coming back to life, I am glad to see it. My first post is listed here in the new member area from 2018. A little back story and some pics to bring everything up to speed. In 2018 I began looking for my first Sy, I did a fair amount of research on the truck and having done many resto mods over the years I was looking forward to it. I had never seen one in person, just knew that I wanted one from my days of drooling over them in magazines back in the 90's. I planned on modding and racing the truck but wanted something clean that I could take to shows. I searched the interwebs and found 3 or so for sale across the country. I went with one that was advertised as restored, near perfect and needing nothing. I live in San Antonio, the truck was in Phoenix on a classic car lot and listed as the owner's personal vehicle. He also said he was the owner of Syborg (a twin turbo Sonoma SEMA truck).

I looked over his inventory on his website and he appeared to be a frequent dealer of Sy's and Ty's. His Sy had 36K miles, a clean Carfax, had been beautifully painted, including a flat black on the original cladding, the wheels had been refinished, and it had billet aluminum cnc reproduction center caps, new OE size tires, and a host of turbo and engine upgrades along with a built 700r4 with 10" high stall TCI torque converter. He said the engine work, tuning, and dyno'ing was done at Black Market Racing in Phoenix and made 300hp on 93 fuel. He sent me several receipts worth $15K in work from Black Market, the paint shop, and the trans shop. I could tell by the Carfax that he never put the vehicle in his name, it showed only one owner from Reno, NV and otherwise it appeared to have come from a dealer in Montana. I really wanted to fly up to see it and potentially drive it home but I couldn't get away from work at the time. Having bought other vehicles in the past as sight unseen and subsequently having them shipped to me has generally been a pleasant experience so I opted to go this route again. He touted that he could get me a better deal on shipping because of his dealer connections so I opted to use his guy for shipping and it was in fact cheaper by half (I should have known better).

The truck arrived after a few days and I noticed two things right away: First, it traveled across the country with the driver's window down because the window motor was going out. Luckily, it had not rained but I was pissed to see this. Secondly, the truck driver had smashed the Sy into the back of a Mercedes on the car hauler. It was traveling down the highway with the front bumper of the Sy rubbing against the rear bumper of the Merc. By now, steam was coming out of my ears. I told the driver I was deducting a few hundred dollars from the money I owed him so that I could get the front bumper resprayed in flat black. He haggled with me on the price and I was not in any mood to haggle. So, I told him to take the truck back to Phoenix, that I no longer wanted it, and I walked away without signing his delivery paperwork and I also had not given him any money. He chased me down the street with his hat in his and being very apologetic. He agreed to the price I offered him for shipping and I took delivery of the truck.

He unloaded it and I climbed inside only to have a sagging headliner rub my face...not a good start. I drove the truck the few blocks to my house and immediately put it in the garage so that I could go over everything. I was not in any mood to drive the truck with the bumper scratched, headliner hanging down, and the driver's window stuck down. I figured if this is any indication of the overall condition of this truck then I need to go over the motor with a fine tooth comb. I spent the next few weeks tuning up the engine, changing the fluids, checking vacuum lines, etc. I found it odd that the upper radiator hose had been changed but the lower appeared to be original so I replaced it (I found out later why he did this). I also took some time to replace the headliner and replace the window motor in the door (I did the passenger side as well since it felt weak too).

I took the front bumper to be resprayed which they neglected to match the paint the first time so I took the driver's fender flare off and gave it to them so that they could do a better job of paint matching. They wanted the entire truck but I refused to give it to them. The second time was a success and the bumper looked fantastic. While I was at it, I tried to finish what appeared to be a partial restoration. I reupholstered the center console arm rest and the fuzzy door panel bottoms. I put some floor mats in it (it also didn't come with any). I took out the awful flip screen radio and installed a factory unit in it's place. The glove box was literally falling out of it because of a broken radio support so I changed that. The dome light cover was melted so I replaced that as well. When digging through the center console I found a broken wheel stud...yeah no joke. I was like who sends someone a vehicle they just purchased with that in the center console??? Anyway, after removing the center caps, I found the broken stud on the driver's front side and replaced it.

Once I felt the interior was fully restored I moved on to other areas of the truck. I took all the cladding loose and pushed them all up against the body and re-tightened everything. The body shop did a piss poor job of this and half of the cladding screws were missing so I made sure they all were in place. I noticed that the truck looked half an inch lower than stock in the rear. Turns out someone had installed c channel for lowering blocks. That is crazy unsafe! So, I ordered and installed 2" drop blocks in the back...with the proper safety dowels. There was a CO2 tank mounted in the bed with a spray bar for the aftermarket intercooler. However, it was inoperable and appears to have never been hooked up. I removed it and just installed two small fans on the intercooler for the time being. There was also a battery mounted in the bed that was rattling around inside a battery box, no hold down at all. I also noticed they used AC dum dum for a make shift grommet for the battery cables that went through the bottom of the bed. Horrified at this sight, I fixed the battery box and installed proper grommets. While on the subject of grommets, I noticed that there was a gaping hole in the firewall behind the distributor where Black Market had run the wiring to the inside of the vehicle and they neglected to trim the factory plug to make room for the wires and reinstall it. I was pissed about this but found an expandable freeze plug that fit nicely in the hole.

I put some fresh fuel in it and on my first drive I noticed that the truck ran good at a steady state but ran awful at full throttle. And then noticed smoke and coolant gushing out so I pulled over. Turns out the driver's motor mount is bad and the alternator sliced open the upper radiator hose when I punched it. Yes...that is why the upper radiator hose was fresh and the lower was untouched. This is the type of individual I bought this truck from. I took it back home and installed a chain from the frame to the engine block on the driver's side to keep that from happening again until I could get to that pesky motor mount (an old hot rodder's trick). I also started going over everything again. I discovered a twisted rubber fuel line by the gas tank on the feed side coming out of the fuel pump (he had mentioned the pump being replaced at some point). Whoever tightened the fuel connections had inadvertently twisted this line and was cutting off fuel at WOT. After straightening this out and replacing a fuel filter that poured rust out of the inlet side, the truck ran better but not perfect. I contacted Black Market Racing and asked that they send me the dyno sheet on this truck...they never did. After looking at the plasma cutting that they did to the wheel wells when installing all the aftermarket turbo equipment...I doubt there is a dyno sheet to be had for this vehicle.

Here is a list of aftermarket equipment that the truck came with: 63mm turbo on bronze bushings with external wastegate with inline boostsmart, 3" downpipe, no cat, straight through style muffler and mandrel bent exhaust. BBK dual blade throttle body, air to air intercooler mounted at 45 degree angle under front bumper, 3 bar MAP, all custom made turbo piping with decent tig welds, 50 lb/hr high impedance injectors, aluminum radiator, electric fan that was too small, comp steel 1.5 ratio rockers, AEM wide band O2 sensor mounted in a two gauge pod on the A pillar with a boost gauge, and two things that were in the receipts but were not on the truck when it showed up: MSD blaster coil and NGK UR6 plugs. I contacted the seller and he said he removed the coil to use on another vehicle and replaced it with a very rusty looking stock unit and neglected to tell me and took the UR6 plugs out and installed stock ones to try and make it run better. By this point, none of this surprised me. I was so frustrated with this guy that I couldn't even decide where to begin with chewing him out so I simply didn't say anything more. I honestly felt like if I could get this truck running good then I got my money's worth because he had invested a lot and I couldn't take that away from him. I took the high road and decided I was happy with the truck as a whole. More to come on my saga of getting this thing to run right.


Pics: Broken wheel stud, as advertised pic of truck, interior after my restoration work, shitty c channel lowering blocks, truck smashed into Mercedes.
broken stud 2, resized.jpg
syclone 2.png
drivers interior, resized.png shady drop blocks 1, resized.png
syclone on rig 2, resized.jpg
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
I began my work to get this thing running right by reverting as much as I could back to stock. I removed the big injectors and installed some stock units. I also removed the 3 bar map and installed a 2 bar. I contacted a tuner online and he wrote me a new tune. I moved the ECM to the glove box to make things easier and discovered an Ostrich 2.0 connected to it for easy tune uploads. I removed the Black Market Racing tune and installed the online tuner's new program. The truck still didn't run right. I purchased Tuner Pro RT software and started datalogging and sending that info to the new tuner. He sent me several updates but it never did run right. So, I decided to upload a free tune I found at powertuneplus.com for stock injectors. But, I had to reinstall the 3 bar map. The truck finally made a good pass and was quite fast. I was able to look at the boost and AFR for the first time at WOT. It had 15 pounds of boost and an AFR that was leaner than I would have liked. The factory O2 sensor looked like it was loose because the crush washer was spinning around while the engine was running but I couldn't tighten it anymore. So, I pulled it out and cleaned the threads. It finally tightened all the way up with some anti-seize in place. But again, still a bit lean. I went over all the vacuum lines again and even pulled the cruise control and EGR out of the truck to eliminate some stuff. I found that the down pipe that Black Market Racing had installed had no exhaust clamp and it was definitely leaking. I fixed that and the AFR got a bit richer but still only around 12.5.

It was at this point that 3 and 4th gear clutches in the trans gave out. My co-worker is a good trans builder so I had him go through it and beef it up a little more. I cleaned out the trans lines, cooler, and converter and installed the fresh 700R4 along with a new kickdown cable from Sports Machines. The trans only lasted for a few miles, clearly something was wrong. I pulled it again and took it to my buddy who went through it again and 3 and 4th were burned but otherwise it seemed in good shape. I put it back in and it seemed to be working well until I developed a leak at the kick down cable. The plastic housing that goes in the trans was a little warped. I took pics of it and sent it to Sports Machines, they said they hadn't seen this before. I bought a new cable again from them for full price and installed it. After a few miles it looked warped again like the last one. I contacted Sports Machines and told them to take a look at the clocking of the plastic housing. I felt like it was crimped on 180 degrees off because it was never pointed in the correct position when trying to install it. They just said again they have never seen that before. So, I have ordered a repair kit that allows you to cut off the bottom portion of the housing and install one with a swedge lock that will lock into your current housing and this way you can swivel your housing to your desired position and lock it in place. The good news is that it's not leaking at the moment and the trans is holding up.

I tried a few other tunes from powertuneplus.com to try and get the AFR down in the 11's at WOT but I wasn't having any luck. I bought an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to see if I could get a little more fuel on the big end but the extra pressure wasn't having any effect up high and was creating a bog down low so I just put it back to 42 PSI. Since the truck was running so well I decided to put a meth injection kit on it to get the little bit of extra fuel up high. I removed the ABS pump to make room and installed the stainless steel braided kit to bypass it. I also installed an MSD 6AL with two step. The Alky system was able to get the AFR down in the low 11's without even maxing the system out. I had started off using 50/50 meth and distilled water but it wasn't very affective so I just went with 100% meth and that's when the AFR really started dropping. The two step works good too.

While I was at it I installed the UR6 plugs back in the truck gapped at .030" for now along with a MSD blaster coil. I also bought some drag radials for it. They were close to stock size but slightly taller and slightly wider. They hook really good. I have turned the boost up to 17 with the boostsmart and it runs really well but somewhere in the process of my work I have created some turbo lag down low. I will need to diagnose this in the coming weeks. It use to leave like a freight train but now it acts like it has a really big turbo and bogs momentarily. If any of the Sy experts have any thoughts, I'm all ears. But, if your suggestion is a Holley ECM I don't quite have the funds right now for that.

alky 2 resized.pngalky resized.pngfront view syclone resized.pngkickdown resized.pngsyclone with drag radials resized.png
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
Also had the rear driveshaft out this weekend putting some stronger Spicer joints in it. The front shaft is a stage 1 dynotech unit the previous owner installed, so I'm hoping this will be good enough for my current drag plans. Been looking at driveshaft safety loops. I contacted the original maker of those bolt in units available for the Sy's and Ty's many years ago but he said he sold the blueprints in 2014. I contacted the buyer of those blueprints but he won't respond to my emails. I guess I will probably have to fab something up or chop up some universal ones.
driveshaft, resized.png
 

proptop

Donating Member
I believe that you Have a few issues going on there. I am sending/PM you my number and would like to talk with you about the direction you are heading and what your goals are. Not one of the Experts on here but you might be on a path of destruction (in my opinion) by reading some of your steps. Not trying to get into your shorts but Please give me a call.
Thanks,
Bob
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
Will do Bob. I have been monitoring my knock sensor and I haven't seen any activity or retarding of timing which is currently 15 degrees total at WOT.
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
If you have an Ostrich 2.0 and tunerpro you can adjust your AFR to exaxtly what you need. At WOT with alky you probably want about 11.0.
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
Thanks for the info wild phil. I have been working on that. I know that it's tuning software but am currently having problems with the program. I have done an update and spoken to the maker of the software but haven't found the problem as of yet. I posted on a Tuner Pro user forum to see if someone with some experience with the software can help me to get it working again. I have tuned using SCT software on OBDII vehicles but this old school stuff is new to me. Hopefully, I'll get it figured out in time.
 
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wildphil

I Love My Ty's
I am not that good setting up stuff like that. Have you downloaded Code$59? That is what you need on a laptop to tune a SyTy through the Ostrich. I can tune with Code$59 if the truck is in front of me but remotely I am not much help.

I am sending you a message with more info.
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
I have bin 58 but not code 59 and have had success data logging through the ALDL cable but that portion is inoperable at the moment. Also, I was able to open up that free tune I downloaded and was attempting to change the fueling which is different than OBDII or at least that is my understanding. With the OBDII cars you can just change your lambda values because it is still reading off the Primary O2 at WOT. But, as it was explained to me, and my source may be incorrect here, apparently I change the % valves in the box listed MAP vs RPM vs VE. I tried changing those values but it didn't make any change in the fueling. I went back and looked at the tune after I saved everything and the changes I made were still there. I was making these changes and uploading using the Ostrich.
 
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Goodgollyjosh

Active member
I am getting a Base Pulse Width of 17.2 to 17.4 during WOT the last time I made a pass with no alky and with stock injectors. I don't know how to interpret that data. I may be maxing out the stock injectors.
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
It sounded in your other post that your AFR's were not that for off. If that is the case then table F29x is the table that you should adjust your AFR in.

If you have a tune that is running OK now you should save it so you can load it back in if you screw up with your adjustments. All you have to do to do that is after your first adjustment name the adjusted tune something else. That saves the original and the new tune has a different name. You can change tune names to same tunes at different stages.

Table F1 is the table to adjust timing.

Before I sold my trucks. I would have someone else drive my truck and turn trace on in Table 29x. I would watch the AFR gauge and when I saw the an AFR that was off I would click the cell in table 29x in Tunerpro then adjust the AFR in that cell and maybe some of the adjoining cells. You get in a groove after doing it awhile and sometimes go to the graph of table 29x and adjust and smooth the graph to help the tune.

If you are able to get the member that I suggested to assist you that would be very helpful for you. I wist that I were better at explaining things. I can tune with code$59 but not good at training.

You had mentioned Turbotweak. I have heard that it works well and is not so hard to set up but I have never tried it.
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
Thanks Phil! All very useful info. You provided me with some of the stuff I have been wanting to know. I did contact the member you mentioned and will be calling him today. I appreciate that very much.
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
Got a bunch of help from PropTop last week and WyoSyclone this weekend. Turns out I had bin 58 not code 59. I got the code 59 now and WyoSyclone helped me to get my bug fixed on the Tuner Pro RT so it is functioning again. Lots of useful hardware info from Proptop of what are the best parts to use for building up the Sy, what breaks first, etc. Both of them recommended to me to get the Turbo Tweak. So, I did that this morning and I opted for the dual chip so that I can have a 93 tune and a tune for the alky. My kickdown cable repair kit came in so I will be working on getting that issue resolved soon. Will be posting some pics of the previous trials and tribulations to document how far she has come.
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
The shotty battery cable protection going through bed and the pic once I put in a grommet. Removed shotty battery hold and installed the proper hold down. The gaping hole I plugged in the firewall with an expandable freeze plug. The pinched fuel line above the gas tank that I fixed (feed side).
battery cables 1, resized.pngbattery cables 2, resized.pngbattery, resized.pngexpandable freeze plug, resized.pngpinched fuel line, resized.png
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
Moving ECM to glove box, removing one large fan with no shroud and installing 2 smaller fans with shroud to cover more area of radiator, also 2 tiny fans installed on intercooler, upper radiator hose cut open on my first time going WOT on the truck and discovering driver's motor mount is torn, pic of working in my tiny garage, pic of turbo that came with truck, I measured intake inducer wheel housing at 63mm, haven't been able to measure exhaust side yet, also I plan to move the oil feed more upright, I don't like where they currently have it, I also replaced the turbo feed line, it was leaking. If you recognize this turbo let me know. It appears to ride on bronze bushings and is said to come from syty performance, I sent them a pic, they couldn't identify it, I know nothing else about it.
ECM, resized.pngfans, resized.pngradiator hose, resized.pngtruck in my garage, resized.pngturbo, resized.png
 
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Goodgollyjosh

Active member
truck being painted by previous owner at a body shop in Phoenix, the bumper scuff I received from the car hauler, an engine shot that is pretty current, I think the only thing I have added is the MSD box, a shot of all the painted flat black cladding.
at paint 3, resized.pngat paint 4, resized.pngbumper scuff, resized.jpgengine pic, resized.pngtruck at paint 2, resized.png
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
the warehouse it sat in for years (his collection is neat!), the dash is 100% perfect, no cracks, no fading, the gauges are so bright and clear, I am truly shocked, this thing hasn't seen much daylight. First time I ever saw a Syclone in person was on the back of the car hauler when he was unloading my very own, still a bad day though. Lastly, one of the many times I have had this trans out, and probably not the last.
car wharehouse, resized.pngdash, resized.pnggauges, resized.pngsyclone on rig, resized.jpgtrans out of syclone (2), resized.png
 
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