Intake work

nightdiver

nightdiver

Active member
Should port the intake to about 1-1,5 mm over ? i just look at it and i dont like what i see .Kinda small for my taste
Anyone saw flow nrs ?
Thanks
 
Tooky

Tooky

Serious about performance
Here's what McCoy's intake looks like, FWIW:

S6140065.JPG
 
Hu Ryde

Hu Ryde

Donating Member
Bless, clean that thing! Go have it tanked or sandblasted, it's only like 20 or so bux. While it's off you can fill the egr port with JB weld so that the heat never even get's into the upper intak and heats it up keeping it nice and cool.
 
T

the Sandman

Member
Hu Ryde said:
Bless, clean that thing! Go have it tanked or sandblasted, it's only like 20 or so bux. While it's off you can fill the egr port with JB weld so that the heat never even get's into the upper intak and heats it up keeping it nice and cool.
Click to expand...

Dude - relax, it's on the list of stuff to be bead blasted and powdercoated. If Dennis thinks the EGR needs to be sealed he'll weld it. Get over the cosmetics for a minute and look at the size of the ports!

If you wanna see finish work check out the pictures of the (almost) finished rear suspension here http://www.webxites.com/gallery.asp?id=14012&page=1. Just keep in mind the coilovers are for display only - we'll actually be using custom valved Bilsteins.

This site is brand new and only a few pictures are up - nothing else yet. Dennis hasn't even had time to fill in the captions.
 
Hu Ryde

Hu Ryde

Donating Member
What color are you powdercoating? I was wanting to do that to mine. BTW where in Fla are you? I'll be in Orlando area at the end of Dec for about 16 months for school.
 
T

the Sandman

Member
Hu Ryde said:
What color are you powdercoating? I was wanting to do that to mine. BTW where in Fla are you? I'll be in Orlando area at the end of Dec for about 16 months for school.
Click to expand...

Color will probably be close to stock and then clearcoated with the lettering colored in. IC will match.

I'm in the Tampa area.
 
myclone

myclone

Donating Member
I looked around here: http://www.webxites.com/gallery.asp?id=14012&page=1

NICE WORK on the headers rear suspension!!!

About the lower intake porting pic.. Did you tap the rear water passages for a crossover? I was thinking about doing it but havent decided if its worth the effort. Is it?

Lastly.. wish I had a ZR-1 just so I would need a set of headers :(
 
canadian

canadian

sy in progress
those headers are pretty sweet up close. howard pulled the top secret blanket off the motor and i was :eek: when i saw them. looks like the rear suspension is coming along nicely. i'm sure this motor will be a monster when it's all done.
 
nightdiver

nightdiver

Active member
I finished with the upper intake and it looks like the one Dennis did
Its time to do the lower
Why did you do a crossover at the rear ? For temp reduction ? or what ?
 
M

MikeRenz

not stock
Hu Ryde said:
Bless, clean that thing! Go have it tanked or sandblasted, it's only like 20 or so bux.
Click to expand...

you shouldn't sandblast the intake....sand will remain in the thing to later be sucked into your engine.
 
T

the Sandman

Member
FLSY2730 said:
Sandman, What kinda times you looking to get out of that setup, is it going in a syclone ?
Click to expand...

Yes, Syclone.

I'm not gonna speculate on times at this point. This build is based on a stock block and stroked stock crank. Dennis' goal here is to get 600-625 HP on the engine dyno at around 18 lb of boost on a GT66 turbo (current thought although this changes over time as planning goes on). Then w'ell limit boost on the street to about 16 psi. We're just not comfortable running more power through this setup. I will say that with the 4.6 liter displacement and thouroughly enhanced breathing from air intake to tailpipe...torque will be abundant from off idle straight up the rpm range...and the 4 link coilover rear will assure that the front end sits down and bites off the line (sure, lifting the front wheels looks cool as shit but what you want is traction)...I'm thinking 10's

We've spoken to the guy who did the stock crank, and he can make a custom billet crank (stroked, evenfire) from a blank for us ($$ of course). Dennis would like to try out the same build we're using except for the forged crank and a Bowtie block and seeing how far he can take the HP without worrying about the crank grenading or the block moving. The header setup could easily be adapted to dual turbos. Maybe in my Typhoon? We're also discussing a full tube chassis for the Ty :eek: but we'll see...
 
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