Full frame off resto

[Terryphoon]

Cause I'm so used to waiting weeks to months for anything I order, I was pleasantly surprised when my most recent order from Jegs arrived in approx 5 days to my place.

I got a high quality 2300 CFM electric cooling fan and controller with ac override, carpet underlay, some dynamat knock off sound deadening, a remote battery box c/w 1 ga wire and installation components, some battery lugs and ground straps etc.

Started working on the truck for the first time in months and what a beautiful sunny day it was.

I laid the dynamat out in the sun to warm up and get pliable, along with the original carpet.

If you haven't read this whole post then maybe you don't know, the inside of this mouse infested truck smelled awful. Since removing the carpet years ago, I left it out behind the shop and it's been rained in and snowed on so many times it finally has no smell. I did want to replace the under lay, so off that came..

After blowing all the dust and bits from the clean floor in the truck, we proceeded to stick down the sound deadening (I wish I had more on hand) pushing into all the groves and corners while cutting out for holes and studs.

Then the foil backed carpet underpad was placed down and foil taped into place to prevent movement. And finally plopped in the carpet. I does need a vacuuming but I really wanted to get the shifter installed and hooked up.

I tried turning the key a while ago but figured the neutral safety switch was keeping the starter from engaging. Once the shifter was in and the cables and plugs hooked up I turned the key again. Well wouldn't you know it, the motor turns over. There's no fuel in the tank but I was so happy. Another checkpoint has been reached.

At this point I had enough for the day. Old Dad and I cleaned up but I can't wait for next weekend to continue and up here in the big white north, it's a long weekend YEAH!!!.

Till then guys,

 

[Terryphoon]

More pictures of the sound deadening and caper underlay.

 

[gmemony2]

I know its been a long hiatus, but after many months of working night and day, I'm finally back to working on my truck.

First off, the wait for the turbo rebuild was exceptionally long. Due to weather and the rona, took almost 7 months to get back. I did get a BMW wheel, ceramic coated, chip, billet waste gate and new trans shifter cable. I asked for the original compressor wheel back as this will make a good paper weight plus I really wanted to see the condition of it.

T

How many miles was on the turbo before rebuild?

 

[Terryphoon]

I have 10 second vid of me turning the key and the engine turning over but I can't upload. Anyways, here is the carpet and shift cable installed.

I probably be installing the electric fan, ground straps and

 

[Terryphoon]

How many miles was on the turbo before rebuild?

Somewhere in the post is a picture of the current odometer reading which is 66K. I believe I'm the 4th owner of this truck and purchased in 98/99 with approx 50k on it then so I also believe the turbo was never removed before I owned the truck.

But to answer you - 66k original miles before I had rebuilt

 

[Terryphoon]

So worked on the truck Saturday and again for few hours today. (Mental health day)

Saturday - weather was petty shitty. Rain on/off and spent most of the day looking for the steel shifter to floor mount. I don't remember taking this this off but eventually I found it.
I also moved the trucks interior from the attic storage to the back of my van. Took it all home for a thorough washing and scrubbing. Drill brushes and some mild dish soap worked well.

Today - brought all the clean and dried interior components back to old dads shop untill install.

Been having a hard time installing the down pipe. I should have installed when dropping the body back onto the frame but due to the lack of a turbo at that time, I never did. So jacked the passenger side up and screwed around with installing the pipe. This did require removal of the transmission support brace for clearance but eventually, it slipped into place and everything was reinstalled and torqued down.

At the same time, I brought home new front fenders purchased a while ago. I had NAPA mix me some rattle cans of correct frost white acrylic paint to do the inside of the fenders. I wanted to bolt them onto the truck for the installation of the ABS module, remove oli filter etc. After thoroughly cleaning, scuffing with 409 grit and cleaning again, I gave the insides of the fenders paint. They turned out quite well and I'm happy with the results.

I'll be back at it in a day or two with more pictures of my progress

T

 

[Terryphoon]

A while ago, I removed the fiberglass wind spoiler from the roof of my truck. The screw holes thought the roof is the main reason the truck needs a repaint.

I'm definitely no body shop guy and really didn't want to pay big $$$ to have the 6 or 8 holes fixed. I can weld but don't trust my abilities fixing the holes with a mig welder. I seen a guy online fixing small holes with a soldering iron and lead solder. What a great idea. Works amazing and after the repair and a small bit of sanding, the repair spot cannot be felt or detected other then the Slight colour difference. I tried this out on one of my old fenders.

 

[Terryphoon]

Finnishing of the repair. The last picture is the same repaired spot, I just was testing the NAPA colour matched paint over the spot.

 

[Sparkz#0535]

looking good ! nice work !

 

[Terryphoon]

Hey,

Nothing really crazy yet,

Been really trying to get all the parts finnished off (sandblasting, painting, washing etc) for the assembly.
Got the front fenders bolted on as I was happy with painting the insides, shifter bolted in, install of electric fan, sensors, relays etc.
Engine turns over. Really hope it starts as I need to break the motor in by letting it run out in the driveway for 20 mins or so. I plan on putting gas in it this weekend. (5 gals or so).
I also ordered Lord Fusor 152 and their material reinforcement for the 152 to repair the cladding tabs (this was really hard to track down and very expensive)

Any ways, let's Canada day on Saturday up here in the Great white north and therefore a long weekend...you bet your ass I'll be working on the truck. I will upload the pictures of my progress then.

T

 

[Terryphoon]

Hey,

Back at it again this weekend, picked up the lord fusor 152, a dispenser, fiberglass reinforment mat and a surface prep spray (also fusor) at an autobody shop supplier Friday afternoon. While there, they had the correct colour of interior paint, so I grabbed a can of that as well.

Progress on Saturday was slow.

I really need to get the brake lines finnished off so I started there. When I removed the ABS module for cleaning I just cut the 2 lines from the proportioning valve so these stubbs needed to come out first. I cut 1 length of 1/4 stainless tube and 1 length of 3/32 both at 22 inch long. I bent both tubes the best I could and installed. Not sure if i like how they look (they do look better in person then the pictures show) and I may redo these. Wish my tools allowed for tighter bends.

I also got the vacuum ball and battery tray mounted but once that was done, packed it in for the day. Any and all interior trim was loaded up and brought back home for refinishing.

 

[Terryphoon]

Here's a few pictures of the interior trim parts I've painter so far.

I've recently washed all the parts so for painting, the following was done -

1 - light cleaning with scotch bright
2 - follow up with 400 grit
3 - wash with hot water and dish soap
4 - very thorough rinse and dry
4.1 - mask any required areas
5 - wipe acetone and dry
6 - spray light coat and let dry

The trim looks great but requires 48hrs for full cure. I hope to get it all painted during the week so I can take back over to the old man's place next weekend. If he gets bored, he can start the installation.
The colour of paint matches extremely well and I'm very happy with how it's turning out.

T

 

[Terryphoon]

Hey guys,

I know its been a while, I have been working on the truck consistently but not posting anything.

I've got the air-conditioning working. Replaced the original compressor as I broke the clutch stud off quite a while ago. When I was attempting to hook up the new compressor, i couldn't get the manifold connection (back of the compressor) to stop leaking during the pressure test.

Didn't seem to matter what I did, so I removed and took back to NAPA. They ordered me a replacement and the new one dropped right in and was leak free. Strange.

Anyways, against my better judgment, I flushed the evap and condenser out with flush fliud Napa carries. I did this as the system was open for so many years. Kinda wish I hadn't as was very hard to get all of the fluid out of the system (I did remove the accumulator, the fixed orface and compressor. I drained the comp of the mineral oil it comes with and added the POE oil for the R-134a change. I did recover the r12 original to the system but the 134 is so much cheaper. I've also wired up the high speed on my electric fan to operate when the AC is on (regardless of engine temp) and when AC is off and engine warm, low speed fan will be on (1700 RPM low and 2200 RPM high) all done with a DPST relay and #10 wire. The factory manual was handy at this point.

 

[Terryphoon]

Hey,

In the pictures above, you can see the red 180 mandrel bender and on top of the rad support is the close radius brake line benders.

These were essential in forming the remaining brake likes at the ABS module. Both from Amazon (all my existing benders are for larger pipe) the red ones were very easy to use and forned very nice bends, the close radius pliers required a bit of hand strength but I am also bending stainless tubing. All in all, I'm very happy with the results. All the break lines have been blead and the truck now stops using its own breaks. Not sure if the ABS module works correctly yet but when filling the system, I had to purge the old oil from the proportioning valve and ABS module until they ran clear.

Yes, at this point I haven't realized the way I have bent the brake lines will be in the way of the cruse control module, but it was sitting on my work bench in my shop along with the cable to operate.

T.

 

[Terryphoon]

Quite while ago, I ordered the AFCO full aluminum race intercooler and cooling fan from Sportmachines. This thing is awsome. All aluminum so it's lighter then the Cooper/brass one form the factory (although my original is in perfect condition) the in and out let pipes are on the same side and this required a sharp bend that was easily fixed with a refrigeration 7/8 elbow and some pipe (3/4 in plumbing but not as high quality)

I've also run the intercooler piping in rubber hose covered with 1inch corrugated split loom for clean look. I wish I had of replaced the intercooler pump as the original is starting to make bit of noise. I've got one on order and will replace this guy when it arrives.

T

 

[Terryphoon]

Hey guys,

Wish i could show you the video the truck running and stopping under its own power. Truck idles ok, sounds good, and started up and the second crank. I'm not only a bit surprised but very happy I didn't have to screw around much to get it running. I placed a looney (CAN one dollar coin if you didn't know) between the idle stud and throttle plate to get 2000 RPM and let her run for about 20 mins to break the motor in. Of course I had to play around with the timing a bit but just wanted the engine to idle smoothly as possible.

It's been a long time, a ton of cash and so much work but FINNALY after 18 years, my truck #0229 finally runs.

I managed to break the original waste gate solenoid when attempting to cut off the old rubber elbow in order to connect the new silicone rubber tubing. The GMC dealership out by old Dads place has been great, it's amazing the parts and pieces I've been able to purchase (brand new OEM factory original) from them, and this part is one of em. So got new solenoid.

The stickers I ordered from the dealership in the late 90s and I've had them stashed away. So glad I did. I bet a factory original set of these are hard to come by.

T

 

[Terryphoon]

Few random pictures

 

[Rexxenexx]

Congrats. How’s the r134a setup feel? Nice n cold? I’m lucky I still have r12 pressure in my system, just not enough to switch the clutch, but I was checking out the conversion stuff on Rockauto for the future.

 

[gmemony2]

Hey guys,

Wish i could show you the video the truck running and stopping under its own power. Truck idles ok, sounds good, and started up and the second crank. I'm not only a bit surprised but very happy I didn't have to screw around much to get it running. I placed a looney (CAN one dollar coin if you didn't know) between the idle stud and throttle plate to get 2000 RPM and let her run for about 20 mins to break the motor in. Of course I had to play around with the timing a bit but just wanted the engine to idle smoothly as possible.

It's been a long time, a ton of cash and so much work but FINNALY after 18 years, my truck #0229 finally runs.

I managed to break the original waste gate solenoid when attempting to cut off the old rubber elbow in order to connect the new silicone rubber tubing. The GMC dealership out by old Dads place has been great, it's amazing the parts and pieces I've been able to purchase (brand new OEM factory original) from them, and this part is one of em. So got new solenoid.

The stickers I ordered from the dealership in the late 90s and I've had them stashed away. So glad I did. I bet a factory original set of these are hard to come by.

T

Any idea if they have anymore of those solenoids in stock? I've been looking and had two orders cancelled on me.

 

[Terryphoon]

Gmemony2,

Not sure, I had mine in about 2-3 days. Came out of a Woodsock, ON. Warehouse. I ordered off the part number.

Cowan Buick GMC - Bowmanville ON., Canada. Phone 855-892-6494. I'd be happy to call for you and will tomorrow. If they can get another, I'll let you know.

Rexx

As for the R-134a conversion, I'm an industrial refrigeration mechanic so the AC system is not really a big deal. Yes it blows cold and the only reason I changed over was the availability of R12. Contrary to popular belief,it can be found but I didn't want to purchase a 30lb cylinder for a pound or so if I needed. 134 is cheep and I have 6 or 7 drums at the shop.

I had to drain out the oil from the compressor as r12 uses mineral oil and r134a uses ploy Ester. As the compressor was new, I also changed the accumulator so I wasn't concerned about the oil inside but you would have to drain the oil from there as well.

I purchased new O-rings for the system from rock auto - was only few $.(green for 134a - black ones for r12) Only reason I purchased the compressor oil from NAPA was the oil we use is extremely hydroscopic (absorbs moisture very easy) and a vacuum pump won't pull it out. The stuff bought at NAPA is not. It was $50 or so. I did get the adaptors (amazon) for 134 clip on fittings as the high side has a 3/16 access port and the low had 1/4. I couldn't attach to the high side without. However, I've discovered the Schrader inside the 3/16 is screwed so my adaptor doesn't really work. I did all the vac and charging from the low side. Oh yeah, you only need 85-90% of the full charge in 134 so I pulled 2.5 lbs out and only put in 2.25 lbs or 36oz. Of 134. Cause I ran that system flush though, I'll probably pull the compressor again in the spring and change the oil again. I advise against using this crap. I did pull the orfice style metering device out of the liquid line and clean with old toothbrush and brake cleaner. Ran lots of nitrogen though the system and pulled deep vacuum before adding the refrigerant.

In your case, for the time being, I'd use the cans you can get at the auto parts store. This will allow you to get all the parts together before changeover. I would leak check your system with some soapy water. If you can't find any leaks on the connections, pipes or condenser coil - it's probably the shaft seal on the compressor and theirs only one way to fix that.

Here's a picture of the oil I used for the compressor - 4 Oz goes into the compressor suction port and 4 Oz goes into the accumulator (silver can).

T