For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

George Blake

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Sweet. I got the whole turbo disassembled and there ain't no way it's gonna come apart without that tool. I'm kinda surprised the first stud came out at all.
 
Black Knight

Black Knight

I Glow Therefore I am
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

George it must be a case by case basis like Jeff said. I didn't sand down the back of the housing, but it probaby would be a good idea. I put mine on a week ago and had no problems. You don't have to drill out the fourth hole in the housing unless you want to remove the service puck.
 
91blazins10

91blazins10

Active member
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

I would def remove the puck, im using the stock solenoid and the ultimate chip and whatever I have the ultimate set at is where it boosts to even with the cutout open.
 
SY2932

SY2932

Administrator
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

91blazins10 said:
I sprayed the studs down with pb blaster and let it sit in there overnight and bought a stud removal tool and they came right off.
Click to expand...

I just did the "double nut trick" with some penetrating oil and mine came out with no problems. Getting the stock downpipe out of my truck (without cutting it up) was the big hold up for me...
 
George Blake

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Mine came right out but I don't have a transmission in the way. Im gonna run by napa tomorrow and get the tool and some PB and see how that goes. If I can get the studs out,I'll redo the whole housing. Nut on nut thing is'nt working. Heat isn't working. I'll drop it off at the machine shop if it breaks another stud. My cartridge is perfect. I'm soaking it in diet pepsi. Phosphoric acid is cleaning all the carbon and corrosion off pretty good.
 
George Blake

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Just give yourself some time. Now that you know what is involved, you can manage your time accordingly. It's not a direct bolt on and requires the risk of breaking manifold studs off and may require complete turbo removal at the risk of breaking more studs. I'm still working on my turbo pulling the wastegate puck out and getting the broken studs out of it. I'm many hours into the project now because of issues not alloted for. If I have to notch the frame, I'll take some dimensions. Big thing is taking the center support off for the intercooler and getting those studs out. Lots of heat and I'm still fighting broken studs. I got REALLY lucky on the manifold, but the turbo is now broken down to it's basic parts. Its original though and never been off. Your experience may be totally different.
Loeryder said:
Damnit George, now you have me on the fence about slapping mine on right before I leave for Nats.

Plan was to get it drivable this weekend so we can move it to a garage and out of a metal storage locker.
Then next weekend swap the DP and do the mods to the turbo.
I won't have a spare exhaust housing to switch back to if I don't get it done in time either.

grrr decisions decisions...
Click to expand...
 
SY2455

SY2455

70's Veteran
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

George

Did you try applying heat and then candle wax to the area that you heated. The heat will draw the wax into the threads and act as a barrier between the threads after a cool down. This has always work for me with the last time on some exhaust manifolds that I needed to replace the studs on with 310,000 miles. Let me know if it work for you.
 
ashman

ashman

------
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

2 or my studs broke off even with the turbo outlet face. "ease outs" wouldn't budge'em. had to drill them out just slightly smaller that the original stud size and then retapped them with the original size tap. "worst case scenario" all the way :)
 
George Blake

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Ok. Here's what I did. Pulled the entire turbo apart. Got PB blast up in all the nooks. Let it sit for about 6 hours. Chucked up the exhaust side in a bench vise and took a 2' pipe wrench and walked them out. The pipe wrench grabs the whole stud instead of just a small spot.

As far as I had the turbo torn down, it would be dumb not to mod the wastegate puck area since the JS pipe takes advantage of the extra throw. Chucked in a vise, took a sawzall with a pirhanna bit (metal sawzall brand) and started at the edge of the main stock exhaust hole and went down to the edge of the welded puck on each side. Took a carbide bit and carfully ground off the welds of the puck. Took a hammer and knocked the top chunk off. This left the puck. Then knocked the puck out from the cartridge side. What I did then is worked the area where the flapper could hit when cycled through it's entire range of movement. Probably completely unnecessary but it was apart anyway. Something else I did was I worked the turbo where the bolts hold it down to the manifold. Now a socket will fit on all of them except for the bastard one up in the back. The other three I can easily get a 15mm shallow impact socket on.

The puck area is EXTREMELY restricted. After seeing how it works, I cannot understand why they blocked that port. I will have zero boost control issues now once I get a new wastegate actuator on it.

If you guys do this downpipe, don't mess with it. Plan on taking the turbo off. Give yourself a whole weekend to play with it if you have never had it off before. Some really good tips are in this thread for removing the nuts and studs. I wish I had one of Renz's turbo clockers but maybe I can do that later now that the turbo is gonna be coated with anti seize everywhere. I'm gonna pretty up the turbo a little and then get it back on tomorrow with the top section of downpipe. If I gotta cut the frame a little, I will. I'll post up pics.

Again, if you do this, just take the turbo off and do it all. Go to the JS manufacturing gallery and there is a pic up of how to do it. I will also drill and tap it for the 4th bolt. I've got it apart, I may as well......
 
Loeryder

Loeryder

New member
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Good to hear you have it on the run, lol

I have a 20G that has been on off and apart multiple times so it will come apart easy.

Looking forward to cutting up the exhaust side just as you mentioned.
My main concern is the fit around the frame.
I don;t have time to mess with that.
I do have 'newer' motor mounts so maybe I am just fine.
Should see next weekend...
 
SY2932

SY2932

Administrator
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

George Blake said:
Plan on taking the turbo off. Give yourself a whole weekend to play with it if you have never had it off before.
Click to expand...

Yup, me and my bud spent well over a day (24 hours) during a weekend removing my stock turbo and installing my new turbo and downpipe. I have since deleted my AC. If I would have done that first, it would have been MUCH easier
icon_rolleyes.gif
. My former boss once told me that "when you things the hard way, they can only get easier".
 
George Blake

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

When you cut be VERY careful that you don't hit the flapper valve for the wastegate. You will stop cutting right where it starts.
Loeryder said:
Good to hear you have it on the run, lol

I have a 20G that has been on off and apart multiple times so it will come apart easy.

Looking forward to cutting up the exhaust side just as you mentioned.
My main concern is the fit around the frame.
I don;t have time to mess with that.
I do have 'newer' motor mounts so maybe I am just fine.
Should see next weekend...
Click to expand...
 
M

MikeRenz

not stock
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

George Blake said:
I wish I had one of Renz's turbo clockers but maybe I can do that later now that the turbo is gonna be coated with anti seize everywhere.
Click to expand...

would you like one? i can get you one by Tuesday/Wednesday
 
Foot Performance

Foot Performance

Donating Member
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

JS Manufacturing said:
As I mentioned you must use allen head cap screws, which I used on every pipe to hold down the the welding fixture.

The 4th hole is optional, you can drill tap the housing, or you can leave it with just 3.

If you motor mount is old and sagging it will be close to the frame.

I have a modded exhaust housing with the puck removed already you can have George if you want.
Click to expand...

Would you be willing to sell(If you were just going to let it go to help a buddy I completly understand) :tup:
 
George Blake

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Nope. Too much work into now:tup: Turbo has turned into a week long project. It's getting taken care of though.
 
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