For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

[Foot Performance]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

I ment the exhaust housing jsm has sorry for the cunfusion :tup:

I havent found anyone to turn loose of there downpipe yet

 

[JSM]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

yea I would sell the housing fairly cheap.

$35 shipped?

 

[SonomaGTlover]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

If FootPerf doesn't want the housing I'll take it. It is the stocker right? I can just replace mine with this one and bolt everything together? Is it tapped for the 4th hole?

 

[JSM]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Jon, I will bring it to nats with me. I owe you favor or 3 anyways.

 

[Foot Performance]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

PM sent

 

[George Blake]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

If anyone has problems with their flange on their downpipe, let me know. I found a custom tool and die facility that is gonna make a fixture to hold mine it so they can true the surface. It's tough because there is no flat surface to work off of. They are also doing the exhaust side of the turbo. To get mine fixed up is gonna require almost .120" of material removal. It takes about a week leadtime and it's better if they have both to work with. I'll post up pics when its done.

 

[BigBadSmoosh]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

for the hell of it I put my JSM downpipe onto the exhaust housing of my stock turbo and it sat perfectly flat and didn't appear to have any issues what so ever bolting up. This is without me doing a thing.. eventually i'll remove the housing and port/polish, remove the puck, etc..

 

[George Blake]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Cool. Mine didn't. Maybe (hopefully) I will be the only one with a warped flange. Bananna one way and waved the other. I wish mine would've been like yours. I've got a lot of stuff to do and this is holding up the entire exhaust about a week +. Like I said, I'll put up pics. If anyones is flat don't have anything machined. I'm doing my exhaust housing because the flange has to be machined and this will garantee a match.
I'm just offering because is it a weird setup to do just one pipe and they'll have to keep it so another JS pipe will fit into it if need be if that makes sense.

for the hell of it I put my JSM downpipe onto the exhaust housing of my stock turbo and it sat perfectly flat and didn't appear to have any issues what so ever bolting up. This is without me doing a thing.. eventually i'll remove the housing and port/polish, remove the puck, etc..

 

[George Blake]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Look how thick your flange is. It is also made out of MILD steel instead of stainless. Mine is almost 1/2 that thickness and is stainless. That is why mine is warped so bad. I'm just hoping that after it is machined it won't heat and warp again due to the thin flange. I knew something looked different on your setup and then it made perfect sense why yours went right in. I know where the parts came from

Look at your wastegate puck lever. It is actually in the flange. The thickness of your flange made all the difference.

That is strange mine is stainless and the prototype DP Jeff made. It went on like cake. No real issues at all. The only thing I I had to do was the old DP was welded to the CAT so I had to sawsall the old DP off the CAT and then cut some length off the back half of the 2nd half of the DP so I could swing it up and put a temp. cupler on it. I had a ton of room between the frame. Everything fit well.

I would take pictures but my Turbo bit it and I went to a PTE turbo. Jeff made me a new Upper half of the DP that bolts to the turbo with the flapper built into the flange (thanks to e-rue at Turbotime for the flange and flapper.

Here is what the new Upper DP looks like.

 

[skwayb]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Look how thick your flange is. It is also made out of MILD steel instead of stainless. Mine is almost 1/2 that thickness and is stainless. That is why mine is warped so bad. I'm just hoping that after it is machined it won't heat and warp again due to the thin flange. I knew something looked different on your setup and then it made perfect sense why yours went right in. I know where the parts came from

Look at your wastegate puck lever. It is actually in the flange. The thickness of your flange made all the difference.

My original DP is stainless. So is the one in the picture. I only have a MILD STEEL flange, the rest is stainless. I coated it to lower the under hood temps. I will take picture of my Old Stainless DP sitting on the shelf and post them.

 

[George Blake]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

That's what I said. You have a mild steel flange (pipe is stainless) and it's much thicker than mine so yours didn't warp. See what I mean? The trick is the mild flange and the thickness

Doesn't have that much to do with the pipe.
The thicker flange can disappate the heat without warping. Jeff and I have it worked out on mine. I don't beat on mine anyway so it shouldn't be much of an issue once its machined.

My original DP is stainless. So is the one in the picture. I only have a MILD STEEL flange, the rest is stainless. I coated it to lower the under hood temps. I will take picture of my Old Stainless DP sitting on the shelf and post them.

 

[skwayb]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Well for the heck of it here are pics of my completely stainless upper JSM 3" DP that I put about 3000 miles on and ran up to 22 psi before I went to a bigger turbo. So I don't think you will have to worry about warping it.

No Warpage....

Pics of the bolt holes.

 

[George Blake]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

I wish mine had been flat like that. If it were, it wouldn't be getting machined using a one off holding fixture. When bolted up, 1/16" gap at the top of the turbo mounting surface and between 1/16" and 1/8" at the bottom. I happy yours and Smaug's were flat but I didn't have your fortune. If anyone else (hopefully not) has issue with a warped flange, let me know and I'll hook you up directly with the shop. When I brought mine in the guy held it up and litterally said "wow, it's not often you can just hold a piece up and see it's not flat. We usually have to use a straight edge."
So it's not just me

 

[George Blake]

Almost done need a little help

Almost done need a little help

OK. .140" of material later the flange is perfectly flat and it also fixed the issue with clearance. It now clears the frame by a good 1/2".

Now, I know you guys think I'm retarded by this point but the lower 2nd part of the downpipe that leads to the cat is expanded so it slips over the main downpipe. OK. The clamp. Does the clamp "cover"/ "straddle" the joint or is it supposed to be completely on the 2nd part of the downpipe system? The reason I ask is right now I just have it on the "2nd" part of the downpipe and as I tighten it, it just crimps up into the clamp. I have to be doing something wrong. It just looks like if I keep tightening it, it will just keep opening up as it crimps.

I'm really close. Trans is completely in, cooling lines are run. Cooler is mounted. Pinion seals and shafts are in. New starter on. New 140 amp alternator in. Stock intercooler and supporting clamps are out. I looks REALLY clean underneath. Got VSS wires extended, flexible dipstick in, etc, etc. I've been putting in 14 hour days trying to get this done so I can move on to customer's projects and drive this to Nats. Please help on the downpipe. I'm almost there.

Almost forgot. In order to get a wrench on the bolt engine side, I had to remove the 3rd (closest to the rear of the truck) intercooler supporting brace. I had to do this so the extensions could be stacked up enough to clear the pipe so I could torque the bolt down. Top one is easy with the intercooler out:lol:

 

[George Blake]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Ok. I'll respond to myself. There are several kinds of exhaust clamps. The kind that came on mine requires slits cut into the pipe. I'm not gonna cut up my pipe so I will use the 3" stainless type that you can get pretty much anywhere. I just have to fix my pipe now that it crimped:rant:

 

[Black Knight]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Ok. I'll respond to myself.

LMAO :rotf:

Sorry buddy, I haven't bought a clamp for mine yet, so I didn't even check it out yet :tup:

 

[Loeryder]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

I didn't get much feedback on what clamps to use either so I went with these.

After seeing them on many piece together downpipes it made sense that it fits this DP exactly.

The seal AWESOME and are easy to breakdown.
Mine conformed to the bend on the DP as it tightened nicely.
Probably going to trim teh studs down jsut to clean it up.
They are about 3/4"-1" too long for sure.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=120151526754&rd=1

They ship same day and you can buy it now in their store

 

[mattw]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

I didn't get much feedback on what clamps to use either so I went with these.


After seeing them on many piece together downpipes it made sense that it fits this DP exactly.

The seal AWESOME and are easy to breakdown.
Mine conformed to the bend on the DP as it tightened nicely.
Probably going to trim teh studs down jsut to clean it up.
They are about 3/4"-1" too long for sure.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...STRK:MEWN:IT&viewitem=&item=120151526754&rd=1

They ship same day and you can buy it now in their store

NAPA sells those too.. They are called band clamps. I think they are ~$12 at NAPA.


-Matt

 

[91blazins10]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

Heres mine

 

[Loeryder]

Re: For those that did the 3" JS Downpipe

what spark plug boots are those?