Alignment specs
- Thread starter Don W.
- Start date
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Alignment specs
Didn't you mean toe out? Aside from camber, if the tires are wearing the inside I would think toe out which, depending on how much, will make the vech very difficult to drive. Wants to wander something fierce. If you've never driven a car with toe out you don't don't know what yur missin'.
TwinTurboV8Ty said:
Didn't you mean toe out? Aside from camber, if the tires are wearing the inside I would think toe out which, depending on how much, will make the vech very difficult to drive. Wants to wander something fierce. If you've never driven a car with toe out you don't don't know what yur missin'.
bizkit
bonofied SyTy junkie
Re: Alignment specs
Turns out my problem was the cam bolts. Those two washers on each bolt are ribbed on one side to grip the frame bracket and the ribs were wore off just enough so the bolts would turn and kill my alignment. New bolts/washers/polyurethane bushings and the upgraded alignment specs have me driving with a smile :tup:
Turns out my problem was the cam bolts. Those two washers on each bolt are ribbed on one side to grip the frame bracket and the ribs were wore off just enough so the bolts would turn and kill my alignment. New bolts/washers/polyurethane bushings and the upgraded alignment specs have me driving with a smile :tup:
mattw
Active member
Re: Alignment specs
I've had great luck with and would recommend these specs:
Caster +6
Camber -1/4
Toe in 1/8"
They were provided by Jeff Scott..
I've had great luck with and would recommend these specs:
Caster +6
Camber -1/4
Toe in 1/8"
They were provided by Jeff Scott..
atkonkler
Is this your bush?
Re: Alignment specs
Find an old-school alignment guy that does it without the use of this fancy machines that don't have the specs for our trucks ! They do it with tape measurements and and levels and plates! I did it with mine and man was I happy ! Just do some searching and you will see the difference
Find an old-school alignment guy that does it without the use of this fancy machines that don't have the specs for our trucks ! They do it with tape measurements and and levels and plates! I did it with mine and man was I happy ! Just do some searching and you will see the difference
mattw
Active member
Re: Alignment specs
Dave, thanks for that explanation. I'll be sure to keep a very close eye on inside tire wear. Does your Vette have manual steering? I have both of my vehicles set to 6 degrees of caster and I don't notice the wheel being hard to turn at all.. They do track perfectly straight down the highway which I love.. If I do notice tire wear on the inside I think I will try:
0 Camber
5-6 Caster
1/8" or less of toe in
Dave, thanks for that explanation. I'll be sure to keep a very close eye on inside tire wear. Does your Vette have manual steering? I have both of my vehicles set to 6 degrees of caster and I don't notice the wheel being hard to turn at all.. They do track perfectly straight down the highway which I love.. If I do notice tire wear on the inside I think I will try:
0 Camber
5-6 Caster
1/8" or less of toe in
JSM
Active member
Re: Alignment specs
I have my black ty set for 0 Camber and notice outside tire wear (granted when I do drive it its driven hard).
I think 1/4 Negative is going to be my new trial.
I recently helped Paul put coilovers on his ty and we got almost 7+ deg of caster and he loves it, at least in a syty I don't notice the hard to turn effort. Corvette I can see it.
Dave is just old and grumpy also.
I have my black ty set for 0 Camber and notice outside tire wear (granted when I do drive it its driven hard).
I think 1/4 Negative is going to be my new trial.
I recently helped Paul put coilovers on his ty and we got almost 7+ deg of caster and he loves it, at least in a syty I don't notice the hard to turn effort. Corvette I can see it.
Dave is just old and grumpy also.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Alignment specs
:2cents: Personally caster is a good thing. Always such a thing as to much but my old 325 Bimmer had lots and it wasn't hard to hold in a curve. Also when in the turn caster gives you negative camber on the outside wheel, positive on the inside. Which, to a point is useful. (Just look a a BMW or Mercedes with the steering at or close to full lock and you'll see what I mean. These cars tend to have lots of caster.) With our rudimentary suspension there's a lot of compromise anyway.:2cents:
:2cents: Personally caster is a good thing. Always such a thing as to much but my old 325 Bimmer had lots and it wasn't hard to hold in a curve. Also when in the turn caster gives you negative camber on the outside wheel, positive on the inside. Which, to a point is useful. (Just look a a BMW or Mercedes with the steering at or close to full lock and you'll see what I mean. These cars tend to have lots of caster.) With our rudimentary suspension there's a lot of compromise anyway.:2cents:
TNPhoon
1of28
Re: Alignment specs
BUMPITY BUMP BUMP BUMP.
Don, what did you wind up going with?
I am the same setup - stock wheels, stock height, 30psi tire pressure.
Don't want to eat up the tires prematurely.
Stock specs? Modded specs? What did you guys choose and how's it working out for you? Every thread that I found about alignment were pretty much left "open" and no follow ups on how the specs worked out.
Thanks in advance!
BUMPITY BUMP BUMP BUMP.
Don, what did you wind up going with?
I am the same setup - stock wheels, stock height, 30psi tire pressure.
Don't want to eat up the tires prematurely.
Stock specs? Modded specs? What did you guys choose and how's it working out for you? Every thread that I found about alignment were pretty much left "open" and no follow ups on how the specs worked out.
Thanks in advance!
BMFB
Not to scale
Re: Alignment specs
Just what I've been doing...
I decided to scrap everything i've seen on here for allignment specs. I looked to the autox evo guys who have been playing around and took alot of what they have been doing, toned it down a bit, and applied to the HSB.
Caster - +6.5*
camber - 1.5*
Toe - 0
For driving around its great, I run 275's on this around town, wrinkle wall slicks at the strip (and sometimes around town) as well as R1 track slicks for autox and such. This same alignment seems to work great for all of it. The truck does not track around or drive stupid, even on bad roads. I am running a newer pitman arm on a Zq8 steering box, but everything else has alot of miles on them.
Only thing I can say is when I get on it from a roll with the antilag the truck with track for a split second in to a random direction, but It could be torque steer. This is a 135mph truck in the 1/4.
Just what I've been doing...
I decided to scrap everything i've seen on here for allignment specs. I looked to the autox evo guys who have been playing around and took alot of what they have been doing, toned it down a bit, and applied to the HSB.
Caster - +6.5*
camber - 1.5*
Toe - 0
For driving around its great, I run 275's on this around town, wrinkle wall slicks at the strip (and sometimes around town) as well as R1 track slicks for autox and such. This same alignment seems to work great for all of it. The truck does not track around or drive stupid, even on bad roads. I am running a newer pitman arm on a Zq8 steering box, but everything else has alot of miles on them.
Only thing I can say is when I get on it from a roll with the antilag the truck with track for a split second in to a random direction, but It could be torque steer. This is a 135mph truck in the 1/4.
bigmileage
Member
Re: Alignment specs
Running zero toe on an older truck like these (box, idler, pitman,etc.) doesn't make much sense. A small amount of toe will help it track straight and reduce the "constant steering input". On lifted trucks - like my S10 - I always add a little more toe to compensate for the larger tires/sidewalls.
If you launch a lot or care about drag racing, I'll typically run the camber slightly positive - within spec or slightly more - due to the usualy negative camber the front wheels see when they unload. It tends to keep the tire slighly more in contact.
That all said, even on a modern high tech Hunter machine I'll struggle to even get a S/T truck within spec; things just weren't as precise as they are today.
Running zero toe on an older truck like these (box, idler, pitman,etc.) doesn't make much sense. A small amount of toe will help it track straight and reduce the "constant steering input". On lifted trucks - like my S10 - I always add a little more toe to compensate for the larger tires/sidewalls.
If you launch a lot or care about drag racing, I'll typically run the camber slightly positive - within spec or slightly more - due to the usualy negative camber the front wheels see when they unload. It tends to keep the tire slighly more in contact.
That all said, even on a modern high tech Hunter machine I'll struggle to even get a S/T truck within spec; things just weren't as precise as they are today.
Re: Alignment specs
Bumping this since I had the Ty aligned this morning. Tech saw the ticket and asked the service manager for the alignment.
Guy in his 20's, his dad had a typhoon back in the 90's. He remembered a boost launch when he was a kid.
Anyways, we got camber cranked up as far as possible, but it's well short of the modded specs for sure.
I would imagine there is a cam kit to get more caster? Anyone have the part number handy?
Bumping this since I had the Ty aligned this morning. Tech saw the ticket and asked the service manager for the alignment.
Guy in his 20's, his dad had a typhoon back in the 90's. He remembered a boost launch when he was a kid.
Anyways, we got camber cranked up as far as possible, but it's well short of the modded specs for sure.
I would imagine there is a cam kit to get more caster? Anyone have the part number handy?
Re: Alignment specs
I had them set camber slightly more negative from factory specs, but not as far as the Sportmachines "modded" specs. I don't drive hard enough to go that far negative.
Caster ended up at 1.5 and 1.2. Way less than what I wanted for sure, and slightly more positive than it was, but nowhere near the 3.0 I was hoping for. Guy said he thought there was a cam kit with a bigger offset.
I had them set camber slightly more negative from factory specs, but not as far as the Sportmachines "modded" specs. I don't drive hard enough to go that far negative.
Caster ended up at 1.5 and 1.2. Way less than what I wanted for sure, and slightly more positive than it was, but nowhere near the 3.0 I was hoping for. Guy said he thought there was a cam kit with a bigger offset.