94 S10 build finally..

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Well after a 2+ year break from working on this truck from getting buying foreclosure house rebuilding it, building new 3 car garage on getting 2 post lift in, got married .. all the fun stuff.

So I’ve taken the next two weeks of work around the holidays to nonstop work on this thing till its on the road. I’m going to need some help guys so if at all possible please check back here.

First questions.. Where can I get a dipstick tube that will work with 4 bolt spayed mains, originally I was running a belt stock but I’ve since seen people using some braided stainless steel line setup that just dumps the dipstick into the block with no tube.. this would be nice.

Second I need a turbo brace, Stock manifolds and I’m running PTE72 it just looks like I’m going to break something. I was planning on getting ½ steel and making something between manifold and turbo that I could weld some kinda brackets, linkages something to. What have people done about this I’ve been searching all over and everyone running big turbos with pics have aftermarket headers/manifolds.
 

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

also any progress on the AC delete kits i was talking to renz fab about one probably coming up on 1-2 years ago were the bugs ever worked out? I have a pos factory AC delete i can use for now.

Also can anyone post pics of where they mount the fuel cells in the bed IF you are? I'm wondering about distributing the weight this truck does see tracks with turns! nothing crazy just some track days a couple times a year.

the trucks the one in my Sig.. ty block, 4 bolt splayed, cryo crank, eagle rods, etc etc McCoy cam.., 2114 intake with custom giant plenum, 96lb injectors, eliminator pump, Weldon reg, 4l60E in it right now but i've got a 4l80e waiting, Pt72 turbo, and Big stuff 3 with trans control etc etc
 

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

Man its been awhile since i talked to you! I'm going to give it all i've got and try to get it together.

Off to a poor start, I had dropped off the heads to get cleaned up and checked out even though they had all of 10hrs run time and i find out one of my new manley valves was half seized in the guide from rust. They told me its from running race gas on new valves then letting them sit. they cleaned up the mess and got them looking like new again.

Then it took me almost all day running around to find a oil pickup tube that would work in the factory stock 2wd pan.. 210S melling is what it ended up taking for a 1994 Z vin code original pan.

Everything has been cleaned and motors ready for assembly
 

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

keeps getting better, I get everything back to finish putting it together and figured i would pull the rod caps and mains to take a look and also re oil everything even though i plan on priming it. I had all but the last two caps off and all is looking good and then i find a rod bearing with a grove cut to the copper. I was headed down to the machine shop for some other parts so i took the bearing showed those guys and they all thought it was a little rough to just bolt back together.

ended up tearing the motor completely down and dropping the crank off at the machine shop for them to do a quick polish before they are off for the next 10 days for the holiday. They already had a new set of king bearings laid out ready to fit.

So onto tomorrow.. I'll get the crank back and start putting it back together, I'm off work until Jan 3rd so i'll be working on this project until its done or i'm out of time, That and another project.. doing a diesel swap on a suburban but right now i'm still just collecting parts for it.
 

Sy-1177

Turbo Inside
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

Awesome work man! Glad to you see you kickin some ass on it finally! I want to check this out someday!
 

qbnkiller

Conflaguration Specialist
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

Yeah...good luck getting her done Brock! Call me if there's anything I can do to help!
 

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

ok first off as requested I finally setup a picasa account and setup my phone to load them into albums etc so i should be able to picture everyone to death on these projects.

http://picasaweb.google.com/112714239078061728523

That should get you to both S10 and Suburban one.

On the S10.. Got to the machine shop this morning and they had already finished chamfering the oil ports ( starting to wonder exactly what i paid for from the original engine builder in KY..) and they had the polish done. So me and another guy there spent a good chunk of time doing a really indepth assembly wash seeing how they are firm believers my entire issue was from debris missed in assembly wash of the crank.

Also i forgot to mention another miss.. the ARP oil pump stud the motor back back from the machine shop with was never properly fitted to the last main (and yet it was cut..) so when i pulled the crank out i found my last main had a small rubbed spot in the middle of the bearing.. So had all this not happened chances are i would have tossed that last main bearing at some point driving down the road. I should have checked it but when you see a cut stud in a main you assume it was addressed.

spent some time cleaning the block up getting ready for assembly and half ran out of time and diesel for the heater so i called it a night, Xmas shopping after i left the machine shop ate the rest of the day. Going to shoot for at LEAST getting the bottom end back together tomorrow but the wifes got a ton of plans so we'll see.

Thanks again everyone, Also I was going over the Big stuff 3 harness and i have a MSD 3 bar map.. tried to connect it to the MAP connector... it looks right but one of the slots cut in one of the 3 tube parts of the connector isn't in the right spot.. I could fix this in a second with a knife but want to make sure i'm not overlooking something
 

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

Oh as for the suburban..
1994 2500 4x4 126k Miles
3.73 gears with 14 bolt full floater and posi
3 Rows of leather seats
Power everything
4l80E trans
factory hydroboost

Originally my Dads, then we sold it to my uncle and he was nice enough to "blow it up" in the 12mo he owned it with a clogged injector running WOT pulling.

What i've picked up.. and I wish it was a 6BT but just to much $ for my goals
6.2L Detroit Diesel out of a late 80's Hummer
DB2 Mechanical injection pump

I have picked up the following for it
6.5L turbo F code (non EGR etc) intake upper and lower
6.5L cast turbo manifolds
6.5L GM4 turbo with feed and return lines
6.5L Oil pan matching the truck/year etc
6.5L acc. brackets to loose the Vbelt and make the suburbans stuff bolt on
6.5L single thermostat housing
Oil pump drive/vac pump elimination
Mechanical lift pump eliminator/Turbo oil return plate
Valve cover swap for correct CDR valve for turbo
... the list goes on
TCI stand alone trans controller from 420motorsports on here actually.

I picked the 6.2 because i actually really like these motors and the cost, we have a 1995 1 ton crew cab long bed that has a 6.5L turbo with DS4 electronic injection pump and its amazing. I've done 20mpg towing a car hauler with 5 people, they drive awesome. Again they are extremely cheap to own and maintain and a fairly simple to work on. Don't get me wrong I LOVE Duramax's and Cummins, my brother and I maintain 2 dmaxs for my dad he uses for work and they are awesome trucks but again not in my budget right now.

I'll keep you guys posted on this project once the S10's on the road,
Total cost in this project so far
Suburban.. free (so far.. tried to give him 200 but he said it was mine or he was calling scape yard!!!)
6.2 Diesel with 38k original miles 210 dollars (came with a hydroboost setup to going to the s10 later)
all the other conversion parts 220 dollars
$430 dollars.. + rocking deal i got the TCI controller from 420

To my knowledge all i need to finish besides time..
92-93 6.5 throttle cable
92-93 6.5 TPS sensor
late model H1 water pump (highest flow)
94 6.5L Head gaskets
6.2L ARP head stud kit.. Goes for about 150-175 bucks !

Later.. water injection setup

All in i'll make 200-250HP and around 350-450TQ but should do 23-26mpg according to others with this kinda swap with the same gearing/weight. If i switch to DB4 mech pump from the boats or DS4 electronic pump with a tune.. 350-400HP and around 500-600 TQ on the same motor
 

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

Ok so a little update ended up not getting to work on the truck last two days with the holiday and got calls all night last night from work until about 6am so had a slowwww start to the day lol.

So far,.. I finished tearing the motor, checked out the cam and bearings etc the rest looked good, Then under the advice of the machine shop i scrubbed all the main bearings with scotch bright pads in a cleaning tank which it was a good night i did notice one main was a little worse then i though and appeared to have a small piece of debris logged in the tin but it all polished out nicely.

Bottom end is 100% back together fitted with new King bearings which actually looked a little higher quality then the clevites we pulled out however i'm not sure how the series compared etc not sure it was apples to apples.

tomorrow i'll get base timing set back up get the new adjustable pointer on TDC, new lifters, heads, etc back on and probably get the manifolds on turbo bolted down and start figuring out how to make a turbo brace so this PT-72 doesn't just crack my factory syty manifolds first chance it gets.

So if anyone has pointers on ...
turbo brace
exhaust manifold gaskets (part #) MLS etc.. anyone running std composite gaskets?
Dip stick tube (7.25" oil pan) 4 bolt splayed mains
this map sensor question i posted about the slots in the 3 holes not lining up between BS3 harness and MSD 3 bar.

Thanks again,! Pics on picasa updated
 

qbnkiller

Conflaguration Specialist
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

Hi Brock;

I used copper exhaust gaskets for a standard 4.3L V6 on mine and they have held up fine.

I can't give you assistance on the MSD 3-BAR MAP because I have never used one.

I had to take a little off my center main to get the dip stick tube to clear. If you look up six-is-enough's build, you can see what he did.

Good luck with it bud!
 

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

Latest updates,yesterday somehow we ended up short 1 2.5" stud for the head and two washers and arp was closed for the holidays and no one at summit could find it without a part number from arp! they were quick to offer a complete set with a couple saying they didn't sell singles lol, i did spend some time looking for it on the web and couldn't find crap..Mike at RPM was looking to see if he had a spare..

Called ARP this morning they hooked me up with the missing numbers, summit had them in stock and i picked up a SCE copper exhaust gasket. I chased all the threads in the block tonight then got the cam and timing setup, did the timing over and harmonic bal. and then was doing the rear main seal. I guess they switched the designs and i got some POS hard non flexible thing and promptly had a failed run at installing it and once it was seated i could see it was barely touching the crank, i should have left the old red rubber one alone it looked fine. Couple people told me tonight they changed that design and i'll have a hard time finding the new one.

Tomorrow hopefully the motor will be completely together a full week behind schedule and I can start fitting everything back together still have a pipe dream of starting it this weekend.

Anyone have pics of turbo brace on stock manifolds or any for that mater?
 

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

ok everyone, check out the pics on the link above i finally got some progress today and things are shaping up. I was able to get the heads and manifolds on then i put the intake, plenum and fuel rails on to start fitting the whole fuel system together.

Fuel system
16 gal fuel cell -12 feed in the bed
Aeromotive eliminator pump
10 micron and 100 micro filters
Weldon regulator
Semi custom billet rails with -10 lines
96lb matched injectors low z
no braided line this time went with all push lock AN fitting lines from summit it was something like 500 dollars less and it takes 10 minutes to put together i've had great luck with it on other projects

i'm still completely lost on a the dip stick, I tried a lokar and its to big of dia. shaft to go in, then i went and bought a new 46 dollar GM parts dipstick thats for my truck/original pan and it doesn't come close to fitting around turbo manifolds. Its so far off i wonder how it work with anything..
 

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

So a couple more updates since last time,
I was able to pickup a factory dip stick for my 94 lb4 truck and work it around the 4 bolt mains and around the manifolds.. its not pretty if anyone looks to close but its not to bad.

Onto the AC delete, I picked up the non AC plastic box for the 94+ trucks it had a small crack but a buddy of mine has a plastic welder and cleaned it up for me it was on the bottom you couldn't see it anyways.

I also got a AC delete pulley off a truck but when i put it all together it was a monster.. ended up so high it was into the fuel lines i just got done pressing together. I was tired of waiting on someone to release the "ultra cheap Gen 3 pulley AC delete kit" and was to cheap to buy the nicely designed and fairly priced (considering all new parts) one from RPM, and now the factory 30lb setup was no longer a viable option. I even jumped back on here looked at all the AC delete setups that just use the Alt as tensioner etc and didn't see anything i liked.

So we looked around the garage and i found a old water pump from a Lq9 6.0L gen3 project so i took the tensioner puller setup off. My brother, a buddy of mine and me looked at it for about an hour trying different stuff until we figured out that 2 of the 3 factory holes in the bracket lined up with holes in the motor/head to mount it and one of them would align the pulley to the serp. belt perfectly sharing a Water pump bolt. I grabbed some scrap 1/4 plate laid out the 3 hole pattern on the front of the heads bolted it down by the top two and measured out all the bolts and mounts that were needed. Then I just took some 3/4" solid round stock cut them to length on the chop saw then drilled one over sized for the bolt to pass through the bracket and bolt into the head the other so i could tap it and use the factory 3/8 16 bolt size to mount the 3rd center hole that didn't line up with anything on the motor. I also had to grind a little of the bottom off the bracket to let it pivot down far enough to line up with the second hole in the head but nothing major.. there is pics on my picasa page showing all this.

after getting the steel laid out and two bar stock pieces ready and picking up the 3",4",5" bolts i needed we bolted it all down checked all the belt travel etc etc and I marked out the rough plate size plasma cut it out then bolted it all together one more time and then tack welded it on the motor, pulled it off and welded it on the floor. Bolted it all back together one more time and looks like its going to work nicely. Now i just need to go back through and clean it up take all the jagged edges off and round the corners etc etc.. So it looks like the only thing i had to buy was a 2 dollars in bolts and i need a belt once i measure the size. I also plan on welding another tab off the top piece of bar stock for a turbo support.

Pictures of all this are on my picasa page, this one was a quick and dirty one. If i knew how well it would have turned out i would have taken a little more time on it.. maybe not plasma cut it holding it or welded it laying on the floor standing. We took all the dimensions down for it as we went and were probably going to make a couple more cutting the pieces on my buddies lathe and i'll do a little cleaner job on the cuts/welds so we have some spares for later projects etc. More pictures later once i have a final product.

As for the rest, setting up the rockers in the morning, bolting the intake down, probably setting up the dizzy .. probilet goes in at 45 degrees advance?.. John Meany BS3 was trying to explain said i needed an adjustable rotor/cap to make it work. Not sure on this one waiting for him to respond so i can figure it out from there unless someone knows what to do with BS3 and Probilet MSD dizzy with 6al and HVC2 coil.

Then the motors going back in the truck!!!! With any luck that will be tomorrow.
 

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

Anyone have any leads on a 4l80E converter.. If i could find a deal on the converter i would put this 4l80E in at the same time otherwise i'll do it this spring once i get to run the 2800 ish stall in the 4l60E.
 

brock1949

Its alive!!!
Re: 94 S10 build finally..

Well looks like i'll be back working on it again tonight through this weekend after having a million things come up over the last two weeks.

just need to find out what the story is with this adjustable cap rotor on the Probillet.. John meany told me install it at 45-50 degrees advance and then use adjustable cap to move it back or something..
 
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