What tranny to use?
- Thread starter typhoon92
- Start date
Divergent Lightning
woah
Re: What tranny to use?
If you don' twant to have over drive then go for the Th350 or Th400, they can be made very strong for a good price. The 4L80E can get expensive really fast as it is not a bolt in for our trucks.
If you don' twant to have over drive then go for the Th350 or Th400, they can be made very strong for a good price. The 4L80E can get expensive really fast as it is not a bolt in for our trucks.
Crimson93Ty
PITA new guy
Re: What tranny to use?
4L80e. With gas at $3 to $5 a gallon depending on where you are at, a TH350 or TH400 isn't practical. IMHO.
You can get a 4L80E core for anywhere from $100 to $500. You can build it to hold up to around 900HP for about $600 in parts. Computer costs $650. Output shaft, adaptor plate and complete hardware install kit by JS Manufacturing. Billet converter costs about a $1000.
$2800 plus whatever the kit from JS runs. If you are building a 10 sec truck and want the cheapest trans possible, your kidding yourself. Just do it right the first time and worry more about the engine and tuning so you can forget about the trans.
4L80e. With gas at $3 to $5 a gallon depending on where you are at, a TH350 or TH400 isn't practical. IMHO.
You can get a 4L80E core for anywhere from $100 to $500. You can build it to hold up to around 900HP for about $600 in parts. Computer costs $650. Output shaft, adaptor plate and complete hardware install kit by JS Manufacturing. Billet converter costs about a $1000.
$2800 plus whatever the kit from JS runs. If you are building a 10 sec truck and want the cheapest trans possible, your kidding yourself. Just do it right the first time and worry more about the engine and tuning so you can forget about the trans.
Re: What tranny to use?
This is not my daily driver and how the gas prices are going up most likely the syclone will be sitting in the garage for awhile.So your thinking a 4L80E would run around $3500 or should I be thinking of getting this.
www.raceprovenmotors.com/cart/product_info.php?cPath=48_106&products_id=212
Crimson93Ty said:
This is not my daily driver and how the gas prices are going up most likely the syclone will be sitting in the garage for awhile.So your thinking a 4L80E would run around $3500 or should I be thinking of getting this.
www.raceprovenmotors.com/cart/product_info.php?cPath=48_106&products_id=212
0966Sy
Code what?
Re: What tranny to use?
A 4L80 will be out of your price range if your having second thoughts about spending 2800 on a solid built 700. Depending on the goals for your truck and how often it will be driven and how hard is how long it will last. Im going with the baddest built 700 you can get with a 6month warrenty. My goals are consistant high 10's at the track with 20-25psi in a 3000lb Sy. Weight has an effect on the tranfer case and trans as well as the driveshafts. On the street it will be mild, 15-20psi and just cruising for the most part. not WOT every stop light. Save the money, weight and headache's and stay with a reputable 700-4l60 builder. Our trucks dont take 650-700hp to go 10.90's, although they do make buttloads of torque choose a high quality torque convertor and keep it at a reasonable stall speed if it's going to be driven on the street. 2500-2800 will keep the temps at a reasonable level with some effective cooler's.
here's some 700, 4L60 builders in the south.....
transmissionhead.com
centurytransmission.com
A 4L80 will be out of your price range if your having second thoughts about spending 2800 on a solid built 700. Depending on the goals for your truck and how often it will be driven and how hard is how long it will last. Im going with the baddest built 700 you can get with a 6month warrenty. My goals are consistant high 10's at the track with 20-25psi in a 3000lb Sy. Weight has an effect on the tranfer case and trans as well as the driveshafts. On the street it will be mild, 15-20psi and just cruising for the most part. not WOT every stop light. Save the money, weight and headache's and stay with a reputable 700-4l60 builder. Our trucks dont take 650-700hp to go 10.90's, although they do make buttloads of torque choose a high quality torque convertor and keep it at a reasonable stall speed if it's going to be driven on the street. 2500-2800 will keep the temps at a reasonable level with some effective cooler's.
here's some 700, 4L60 builders in the south.....
transmissionhead.com
centurytransmission.com
0966Sy
Code what?
Re: What tranny to use?
For another 500 bucks you could have a bad 700 built and it actually has overdrive. Cars are ment to be driven, my Sy might turn into my daily driver while the Typhoon goes through a rebuild. Even with gas prices the way they have been, i'd still drive the Sy everyday getting 14-18mpg, depending how you drive. The TH400 your probably looking at around 10-12mpg max. Somthing to think about when you want to pull it out for an hour cruise on Sunday.
For another 500 bucks you could have a bad 700 built and it actually has overdrive. Cars are ment to be driven, my Sy might turn into my daily driver while the Typhoon goes through a rebuild. Even with gas prices the way they have been, i'd still drive the Sy everyday getting 14-18mpg, depending how you drive. The TH400 your probably looking at around 10-12mpg max. Somthing to think about when you want to pull it out for an hour cruise on Sunday.
Crimson93Ty
PITA new guy
Re: What tranny to use?
If your not gonna drive it and only use it at the track, go with the TH400 and get a small diameter converter. Preferably a 9 inch to get the weight down. If you go with RPM, see what converter he recommends. I don't care what anyone says, a maxed out 700 won't touch a TH400/4L80E. Ed Hess has gone with a TH400. Ask him what all was involved as there is some issues with boost and the modulator on the trans that determines when the trans shifts. Yes the sytys make a ton of torque. A syty making 350HP will make around 500 foot pounds of torque. I've seen the dyno results. In all reality, you need to take into account torque and not HP. A truely maxed out 700 with all improvements, cryo, billet output shaft, treated input drum with blues will run over $3500. That's not including torque converter and it still won't hang with a TH400/4L80E. No one will warranty a transmission used for racing. That 6 month warranty is for regular cars. They'll get you in with the "we got a 6 month warranty" stuff and the 2nd or 3rd time you break it, they'll tell you to get lost.
If you go with the 400 don't forget the added cost of lengthening the front driveshaft, shortening the rear driveshaft, modifying the crossmember and setting up the addon for the modulator. Ed Hess did a writeup on it but it's since disappeared.
If your not gonna drive it and only use it at the track, go with the TH400 and get a small diameter converter. Preferably a 9 inch to get the weight down. If you go with RPM, see what converter he recommends. I don't care what anyone says, a maxed out 700 won't touch a TH400/4L80E. Ed Hess has gone with a TH400. Ask him what all was involved as there is some issues with boost and the modulator on the trans that determines when the trans shifts. Yes the sytys make a ton of torque. A syty making 350HP will make around 500 foot pounds of torque. I've seen the dyno results. In all reality, you need to take into account torque and not HP. A truely maxed out 700 with all improvements, cryo, billet output shaft, treated input drum with blues will run over $3500. That's not including torque converter and it still won't hang with a TH400/4L80E. No one will warranty a transmission used for racing. That 6 month warranty is for regular cars. They'll get you in with the "we got a 6 month warranty" stuff and the 2nd or 3rd time you break it, they'll tell you to get lost.
If you go with the 400 don't forget the added cost of lengthening the front driveshaft, shortening the rear driveshaft, modifying the crossmember and setting up the addon for the modulator. Ed Hess did a writeup on it but it's since disappeared.
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: What tranny to use?
I agree with Erik about the OD and the 4L60 and 4L80, they also have a lockup torque converter as well to help with gas mileage.
If I was doing it now I would do a 4L80E. I have a Hartman rebuild kit with a few extras. By the time I am done, I will be around a 4L80E's price. I have nothing against Hartman Kit either, its just a 4L80E should be bullet proof in my truck goal low 11's/High 10's Hartman part should hold that power but how long. If you want, I will sell/trade Hartman kit to go towards a 4L80e
I agree with Erik about the OD and the 4L60 and 4L80, they also have a lockup torque converter as well to help with gas mileage.
If I was doing it now I would do a 4L80E. I have a Hartman rebuild kit with a few extras. By the time I am done, I will be around a 4L80E's price. I have nothing against Hartman Kit either, its just a 4L80E should be bullet proof in my truck goal low 11's/High 10's Hartman part should hold that power but how long. If you want, I will sell/trade Hartman kit to go towards a 4L80e
Re: What tranny to use?
thanks guys for all your responces after reading all your guys posts.I'm thinking of staying with the 4l60 and just build it right.If it ends up being $2500 to $3500 fine i'm just going to make sure it right the first time. I'm just going to take my time with my project even if it takes me a year to complete.
thanks guys for all your responces after reading all your guys posts.I'm thinking of staying with the 4l60 and just build it right.If it ends up being $2500 to $3500 fine i'm just going to make sure it right the first time. I'm just going to take my time with my project even if it takes me a year to complete.
NOJIMMY
New member
Re: What tranny to use?
...I believe the folks responding are correctly advising you to consider:
1.Gear Ratios RPM/shift points, and manual vs automatic shifting needs
2. TC stall, tire sizes, engine hp/torque peak output
3. Cost versus reliability, durability, and daily/routine use of vehicle
4. Weight (of transmission selection), & modification needs (drive shafts, splines etc)
5. Expertise (in programing electronic transmission controls, vs govener/weights)
Breakage can happen in engine, tranny, rear end, axle, or transfer case
(even with the most bullet proof build), but proper planning will avoid most of
these scenerios. Adding a transbrake, for example, will totally change
"normal" build receipes. Remember, there are U-joints, propshafts,
driveshafts, ring/pinion/spider gears, posi/locking/spool diffs, fuel pump/cell
and such that need to be considered WITH transmission determination.
Lastly, while not talked about very often, one has to consider the expense
of having a 10 second SyTy (ie NHRA requirements of helmet, fueling,
safety, etc). Othewise tracks wont let you run anyway (at least for very long).
Its kinda overkill to have 10 sec awd street only vehicle, when a 11 sec is easier
on the wallet, build, and maintenance requirements (IMHO).
...I believe the folks responding are correctly advising you to consider:
1.Gear Ratios RPM/shift points, and manual vs automatic shifting needs
2. TC stall, tire sizes, engine hp/torque peak output
3. Cost versus reliability, durability, and daily/routine use of vehicle
4. Weight (of transmission selection), & modification needs (drive shafts, splines etc)
5. Expertise (in programing electronic transmission controls, vs govener/weights)
Breakage can happen in engine, tranny, rear end, axle, or transfer case
(even with the most bullet proof build), but proper planning will avoid most of
these scenerios. Adding a transbrake, for example, will totally change
"normal" build receipes. Remember, there are U-joints, propshafts,
driveshafts, ring/pinion/spider gears, posi/locking/spool diffs, fuel pump/cell
and such that need to be considered WITH transmission determination.
Lastly, while not talked about very often, one has to consider the expense
of having a 10 second SyTy (ie NHRA requirements of helmet, fueling,
safety, etc). Othewise tracks wont let you run anyway (at least for very long).
Its kinda overkill to have 10 sec awd street only vehicle, when a 11 sec is easier
on the wallet, build, and maintenance requirements (IMHO).