Remove oil pan in truck?

[4C FED]

I haven't worked on my truck in ages. I've forgotten where most stuff goes & the sequence of installing it.
I put a new motor in it years ago and I'm getting around to putting everything back on the motor. So today I was going to put the distributor in, but I needed to install the drive shaft.
So after spending an hour trying to get the shaft on from the top-side I see it's not possible.
Can the pan be removed with the motor still in the truck?

Thanks

 

[graham1524]

Only if you pull the front diff out first

 

[4C FED]

I don't recall the diff being the easiest thing to remove either...
Geez, there's no easy way around it, so it seems.

Thanks

 

[Slyclone]

Years ago I had my truck up on all 4 and was able to do the pan by jacking the engine. Of course I had removed the motor mounts.

I ended up replacing the timing cover with a updated billet design, and a " more accurate" timing pointer. After getting the timing cover I realized the pan had to come off. It wasn't too bad the new gaskets came with some nice pegs that screw in 4 corners and hold the gasket in place.

Your other choice is to yes remove the front diff. That's a easy task also being that there's only about 8 bolts on each axle to come off, and I believe 2 mounts one on passenger side and one on the driver.

What exactly is it that you are doing installing the front prop shaft? That should be able to go in from the bottom.

 

[4C FED]

Years ago I had my truck up on all 4 and was able to do the pan by jacking the engine. Of course I had removed the motor mounts.

I ended up replacing the timing cover with a updated billet design, and a " more accurate" timing pointer. After getting the timing cover I realized the pan had to come off. It wasn't too bad the new gaskets came with some nice pegs that screw in 4 corners and hold the gasket in place.

Your other choice is to yes remove the front diff. That's a easy task also being that there's only about 8 bolts on each axle to come off, and I believe 2 mounts one on passenger side and one on the driver.

What exactly is it that you are doing installing the front prop shaft? That should be able to go in from the bottom.

I'm a dumass...
I was going to install a new distributor into a new motor, but I forgot to put the oil pump shaft on the oil pump when I installed it. Ugh

 

[wildphil]

It all depends on how many of the parts are installed on the engine at this time on what route would be the best to put that oil pump shaft in. There are several options from pulling the intake with the engine still in the truck to removing the engine.

 

[sprinter]

If you use a 1/4” hex extension over a foot long you can stick the drive shaft into the female end that gives you a handle to steer it into position then use a small screwdriver or thin bent rod to release. Wellaah

 

[DaveP's Ghost]

You messed up, Rick.

A: if the nylon sleeve is on the oil pump you can drop the stock drive shaft in from the top, push on it lightly, and it will 'pop' into the sleeve.

B: If the nylon sleeve is NOT on the oil pump, you're screwed. You can't install the Melling shaft with the permanent metal sleeve from the top because the sleeve won't fit through the hole in the bearing cap. There is no way to put the plastic sleeve on either the pump or the stock shaft from 'above'. There's no access.

In 2004 I built a new engine for my DD and I had a brain-fart and installed the oil pump spring upside down. When I went to prime the engine it blew the filter gasket out and I had oil all over the shop and my fresh new engine. I had it fixed by noon the following day. About 4 hours. No hoist at the time.

I read and followed the shop manual for "Oil Pan Replacement". The key points are: Remove motor mount through bolts and raise the engine as far as possible. Remove the steering idler arm bolts and pop the relay rod out of the pittman arm on the steering gear side. Disconnect drive shaft from front diff. Remove the front axle through bolts. (On a SyTy with the round pinion flange, you have to remove the flange, or break off the bracket that the round flange 'hooks' on.) Push the front diff and steering as far forward as possible. IIRC, about 2", and that's enough.

It can be done. Not easy or quick, but not as bad as it will be if you don't know what is required. Read the book if you have one. Or read what a guy who HAS done it did. You must raise the engine. And you must push the steering and diff forward.

Good to see you working on your trucks again. Coolness.