Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?

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Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?

Ok, i've got the distributor bolt out using this combination:

- 1/4" drive 9/16" socket
- 1/4" U-joint
- 6" 1/4" extension
- 1/4" to 3/8" adapter
- 6" 3/8" extension
- 3/8" driver

I put the socket and u-joint on the bolt and then connected the extension to the u-joint "through" the manifold area. :rotf: I will post a pick shortly since there is no way to describe it.

Next step, I've lubed up the MSD, put on the new shaft gasket and dropped the MSD into the hole. I can get it all the down to about 1/2" above where it needs to seat and I can't seem to get it any further. It bottoms out with a metal on metal sound. I pulled the MSD back out to make sure it wasn't longer than the OEM and it is not. Do I need to rotate the gear somehow? I'm not really sure how to do that at this point, I'm doing more searching.

After some searching, I need to turn the engine over so the oil pump (and gear) will move and the distributor will just "drop in". Do I just turn the key in the ignition and the distributor will drop in or do I need to do this manually somehow?

 

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Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?

Is this what is happening inside the engine? The oil pump driverod is not lined up right so the distributor doesn't drop right in? I've tried for about 20 minutes and can't get it to just drop in. I get the metal on metal sound. I didn't want to try to crank the Sy as it sits because I'm not sure what that would do regarding rotor position or timing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdIGZ-tVuZA&fmt=18

 

[wildphil]

Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?

If you have it on TDC. DO NOT crank the engine. Take a long screwdriver and turn the oil pump shaft so it lines up with the bottom of the distribtutor. You can also turn the shaft if you can not see it. Take the distributor turn the rotor until it drops in. Then raise up the distributor a little bit turn it one tooth and drop it back in. It may take awhile to get the shaft were you want your rotor to be. One tooth at a time. But it works if you can't see the oil pump shaft.

 

[tommynos]

Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?

I was just about to install a new distributor so thought id check here for some info,then at last minute I decided to just try and replace the module and bam im up and running just fine again...It was alot faster than replacing the whole thing and alot cheaper...

At the autoparts store the distributor didnt look like much besides alluminum with a module so I decided to just replace the module in my old one and all is good..Im just glad it decided to die in my driveway today and not while I was out..

 

[Don W.]

Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?

If you look back on your post (#14) you'll see where the rotor is pointing. (Look at the notch in the top of the shaft.) Without having turned the motor, you'll want to end up with the shaft and the dist itself aligned just like it is in the photo. Otherwise you risk being out of time so much it won't start and it's a big deal to re-time it.

 

[tommynos]

Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?

Yep, that's how I have always done mine too. I even have an adapter that I use that allows me to use my 3/8" ratchet on my 1/4" extension if the bolt is stubborn. Don't forget to disconnect the ESC wire under the dash when you set the timing...

"The ESC Electronic Spark Timing "tan wire with a black stripe" that everyone can't find when attempting to set their timing (s-series). Wire is under the carpet on the passenger side below the heater box. It is disconnected to set the timing, then reconnected."

Thanks was looking for that today for a while then gave up..:lol:

 

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Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?

Ok, I was able to get the distributor in and everything hooked back up. I need to set the timing now. I started it up and I'm getting a check engine light that appeared as soon as I cranked the engine. Is that because the timing is off so much? The engine runs smooth, I have not rev'd it up yet (waiting to do timing).

Can I set the timing with a CEL on? After disconnecting the brown wire of course.

 

[AutoVation]

Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?

I've got everything back together and the timing set to 0 deg.

I plugged the brown wire back in and I'm still getting a CEL and the engine won't boost over 7 psi. Time to check and clear the codes.

Argh. Now it's pulling a code 22 and it comes back after being cleared.

 

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Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?

Figured out the code, I knocked out an electrical connector sometime during my 5 hours laying on the Syclone engine. After replacing/upgrading plugs, wires, cap, rotor, distributor and coil, my Syclone is running PERFECT now! :woot:

It's had a rough idle since the day I bought it, it idles solid now! :tup: Reving is so schhmoooth now.

I took it out tonight (11:20pm here...) and I had my first perfect boost launch. It chirped all 4 wheels going into 2nd gear! Never did that before!!!
:syty:

Thanks to everyone on this thread for their inputs and help. I think I can drive it for a while and enjoy the truck instead of worrying if my AAA membership is up to date. :rotf:

And check this out, after 5 tries I was able to get a perfect picture of the 0 Deg. timing, the engine was running when I took the pic (that's the timing light shining on it)! :tup:

 

[SY2932]

Re: Changing out distributor, is this the right wrench?

Code 22 indicates a low TPS voltage which is probably why you can't get full boost. For details on what the codes mean, look here. Check the connector/wires on the throttle body.

EDIT: I see that you got it figured out . CONGRATS on getting everything tuned up !