Changes for 2012

1madgumby

1madgumby

New member
Re: Changes for 2012

Nice tite fit. Anyone want to take bets how fast the plastic is going to melt? Way to close for 900-1500 deg. Temps.


QUOTE=qbnkiller;979784]Finishing up the exhaust install on the truck. 4" downpipe and full exhaust. It will hug the outside framerail like my old 3" setup did. Muffler is a Dynomax Ultraflo. Open exhaust was a wee bit too loud for the street (tried it....WAY too loud). This should tone it down just enough to not raise any eyebrows while on the street, yet its straight-through design (supposedly) flows over 2000cfm with no power loss. We'll see about that!

Here are some pics:

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IMG9595501_zps6e937a5d.jpg

IMG9545641_zps27f1e092.jpg

IMG9535381_zps1bbdfd19.jpg

IMG9590321_zpsb29da516.jpg

IMG9593421_zpsee655a97.jpg


Once its done, will post a sound clip.[/QUOTE]
 
neildemo

neildemo

Administrator
Re: Changes for 2012

Alex knows what's he's doing most could only dream to be on his caliber. He forgot more than most know about these trucks. He is always breaking what can and can't be done on these trucks. Been watching this thread for a year and have seen it in person. All I can say is Go Alex!
 
BMFB

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Changes for 2012

I will agree that alex is a man of knowledge.

I will also agree that theres alot of heat very close to plastic, even if shielded

It may not melt away...but it may become...pliable
 
NOJIMMY

NOJIMMY

New member
Re: Changes for 2012

neildemo said:
Alex knows what's he's doing most could only dream to be on his caliber. He forgot more than most know about these trucks. He is always breaking what can and can't be done on these trucks. Been watching this thread for a year and have seen it in person. All I can say is Go Alex!
Click to expand...


No offense, but those of us that witnessed Dumlar's Bowtie Typhoon melt his cladding at a SyTy Nationals can say that the exhaust temps get extremely hot
(especially during tuning phases, when there can be lots of excess fuel dumped). Below is a picture of Dumlar's Typhoon which was a green/green oddfire.
[Note: He won best cladding that year at the SyTy Nats because of the melting incident, and much later that year mailed me the plaque because of his fondness for the NoJimmy Ty. Thats why I remember outcome....and because Im really, really old dude].

-Larry Brown

DumlersBowtieTy.jpg
 
qbnkiller

qbnkiller

Conflaguration Specialist
Re: Changes for 2012

Thanks for all you concerns. I ran a 3" version of this since 2008. Never had an issue whatsoever. While this is larger diameter, I know how to keep the heat away.
 
qbnkiller

qbnkiller

Conflaguration Specialist
Re: Changes for 2012

Got the truck on the dyno today. It didn't go quite as smoothly as I wanted to, but when does it ever?

Driving it out to the dyno, it was running hot. If I went over 50mph it started to overheat. Once I got there, I found a HUGE air pocket in the cooling system...got that fixed. Next, when you went to start the truck, it sounded like the most horrendous crunching/grinding on earth. I got it up in the air and saw the midplate was not letting the starter engage the teeth correctly. Since I had the dyno for the day, I said screw it! That's a tomorrow task! Checked a few things and started making pulls around 10am.

I started making some low boost pulls around 10#. Made some little tweaks in the fuel maps and went to turn it up. Nothing I did would make more boost. Hmmm.......start looking around, cant see anything. Make broad adjustments on the controller - 10#. More dyno loading...10#. Shit! Well, screw it..get the air compressor and regulator. Do that, add air to the top of the gate...12#. WTF! Its noon...let's hit lunch.

Once we get back, I put fresh eyes on the system. I found that the wastegate bias screw fell out and was leaking air from the top of the gate. Get that fixed and we are now making and holding boost properly. Perfect! Let's turn it up. Make a few small hits getting the gate/air pressure up to 20#. Make a hit...744/662 @ 20# on the nose. This was with no intercooler, no meth, nothing. IAT's were high (230+). Shut it off and began to unstrap the truck. Went to start it back up to move it forward off the drum and the flexplate shit the bed (stripped the teeth due to improper alignment).



All in all, I have to say that I am pretty happy. Its right about where I was expecting it to be. I made about 20 hits on the dyno today getting it here. Add another 50-60 on the engine dyno, and this little stock GM block (010 block with factory 4-bolt mains - no fill or cryo) has been through an entire race season already!

Tomorrow I will replace the flexplate, fix the starter/midplate, and hook up the electronic boost controller again. After that, hit the streets!
 
1madgumby

1madgumby

New member
Re: Changes for 2012

Hell ya! get all the air cooling stuff on her & fit it & your 1,000 hp.

qbnkiller said:
Got the truck on the dyno today. It didn't go quite as smoothly as I wanted to, but when does it ever?

Driving it out to the dyno, it was running hot. If I went over 50mph it started to overheat. Once I got there, I found a HUGE air pocket in the cooling system...got that fixed. Next, when you went to start the truck, it sounded like the most horrendous crunching/grinding on earth. I got it up in the air and saw the midplate was not letting the starter engage the teeth correctly. Since I had the dyno for the day, I said screw it! That's a tomorrow task! Checked a few things and started making pulls around 10am.

I started making some low boost pulls around 10#. Made some little tweaks in the fuel maps and went to turn it up. Nothing I did would make more boost. Hmmm.......start looking around, cant see anything. Make broad adjustments on the controller - 10#. More dyno loading...10#. Shit! Well, screw it..get the air compressor and regulator. Do that, add air to the top of the gate...12#. WTF! Its noon...let's hit lunch.

Once we get back, I put fresh eyes on the system. I found that the wastegate bias screw fell out and was leaking air from the top of the gate. Get that fixed and we are now making and holding boost properly. Perfect! Let's turn it up. Make a few small hits getting the gate/air pressure up to 20#. Make a hit...744/662 @ 20# on the nose. This was with no intercooler, no meth, nothing. IAT's were high (230+). Shut it off and began to unstrap the truck. Went to start it back up to move it forward off the drum and the flexplate shit the bed (stripped the teeth due to improper alignment).



All in all, I have to say that I am pretty happy. Its right about where I was expecting it to be. I made about 20 hits on the dyno today getting it here. Add another 50-60 on the engine dyno, and this little stock GM block (010 block with factory 4-bolt mains - no fill or cryo) has been through an entire race season already!

Tomorrow I will replace the flexplate, fix the starter/midplate, and hook up the electronic boost controller again. After that, hit the streets!
Click to expand...
 
qbnkiller

qbnkiller

Conflaguration Specialist
Re: Changes for 2012

miscphoneoct252012043.jpg


Considering 25% drivetrain loss (WindedV6 was right on the money), this is right where I expected this combo to sit. The power is very linear...ramps in very quickly. I have a few things to tweak on some more, but this is as far as I am planning on taking this build. Any more and I think it will puke the crank out the bottom.

If you havent looked carefully at the tire shot in the vid, watch the tire start to wrinkle as the power comes in. It doesnt come out very noticeably on camera, but you can definitely see it live.

This is a brand new Dynojet224xLC load-bearing dyno. I had it loading the drivetrain at 25% throughout the pull. It does NOT allow you to compensate manually for weather conditions (it has its own weather station and makes its corrections based off that exclusively). As a base of reference, Steve had his dyno days just two weeks ago. There were numerous vehicles that had made runs previously on the local Mustang dyno (stingy at that) and were all reading about 8-10% lower than on the Mustang. Take that with a grain of salt because the real tale will be told on the track. I am afraid that this combo with these heads will be out of breath by 6500 (small Dart PRO1 aluminum 20cc heads - a little worse than slightly modded VORTECs).
 
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