Broken wire at ECM connector

[Sy Guy 0024]

Noticed my speedo/odometer weren’t working, and found a broken pink wire at the DRAC. You know, the white box that piggy-backs on the ECM? Problem is, the wire broke at the metal clip that is inside the plastic connector. I know GM (and I’ve heard Snap-on has them) makes a tool to remove the metal clips, but I was hoping to find something more quickly/cheaper. I’ve got some thick paper clips that I think will depress the locking “tang” on the metal clip, but I’m not sure how I’ll pull the clip out. Can’t pull the clip out by the wire since it’s broke so….

Has anyone done this before or got some suggestions on what to use? Found an old post from 2001 where some guy soldered his wire back to the clip w/o removing the clip from the plastic connector, but I’m not sure I’ve got those skills. Any thoughts?

Corbin

 

[leroy]

I use a small jeweler's screwdriver to release the lock. I'm not sure how you can grab it though. Maybe you can push it through from the other side. Soldering it later should be easy.

Worst case scenario, buy a new pigtail from a boneyard.

Jim

 

[myclone]

Tweezers (go steal your moms/GFs/wifes she'll never know), needle nose pliers, etc will remove the connector once you depress the locking tab.

Be sure to bend the locking tab back down when you are ready to replace it because if you dont then when you put the connector back on the DRAC the pin will simply push back out(BTDT).

 

[Loeryder]

The tool is actually pretty common.

Made by Lisle I believe.
Do a search I have read a post about it.
And a fellow SyTy owner came over and replaced the Map sensor clip using the same wires & pins, no splicing.
Just pop the pins out of one and into another.

The tool is hollow and surrounds the pin pulling down any of the "teeth" that hold it in place.
Inside there is a spring the puts pressure on the front of the pin.
When it is released it forces the pin out the back.
That little tool is worth it for OEM looking repairs.

 

[sytyguy]

The tool that Jas' is referring to is a Lisle wire terminal tool........offered in 2 flavors:

- 56500 - for use with depressing "barbs" on conventional terminals
- 14900 - for use on Pack-Con & Weatherpack connectors on GM C3 systems

Either one will run you about $10-$11 each, and these are definitely worth the money, esp if you are working on older, brittle connectors (i.e.....my '64 Chevy II fuse panel connector).

HTHs

Michael

 

[Sy Guy 0024]

Thanks for the info, guys. Looks like you can get one of those Lisle tools anywhere on the net. Maybe I can find one local today though...

 

[rarebit]

ya, just solder the the wire back into the clip. it doesnt require that much skill- strip off just a little bit of insulation from the end of the wire (like a match heads worth), jam the wire against the clip, get the soldering iron nice nice and hot, stick it against the wire and the clip simultaneously, wait for the wire and the clip to heat up, add a little solder, like and inch worth off the spool. pull the the iron away without disturbing the joint too much, wait for the new joint to thouroughly cool down, then lightly tug on the joint to make sure its strong. if the joint breaks, try doing it all again. you might melt the plastic housing a little but its no big deal.

 

[TyMeUp]

...The tool is hollow and surrounds the pin pulling down any of the "teeth" that hold it in place.
Inside there is a spring the puts pressure on the front of the pin.
When it is released it forces the pin out the back.
That little tool is worth it for OEM looking repairs.

Here's a tip for using this tool. First, remove and toss out that inside spring (hook it with a bent paperclip and pull). The spring actually puts too much pressure on the pin terminal. This causes the two barbs on the side of the pin terminal to dig into the plastic of the connector body. Once that happens, no amount of pushing will release the terminal. Many tools get broken because of this (good deal for the tool manufacturers who continue to build these with too strong of a spring).