TYTILIDIE
METH HEAD
So I get a bunch of people asking me how to do this and Ive decided to jsut post it up.Now keep in mind that I do sell these kits but stopped advertising simply because so many people inquired but only 5 people purchased and I got tired of answering the empty PM's. I have my own landscape business so I rather just make them for the people who really need them and are serious about it instead of just probing me. No need for probes anymore, here is the info you need to make your own if you dont wnat to pay for someone to do it for you.
PARTS needed:
1-piece of 3/8" all-thread
1-3/8"x2" nut
1-3/8" lock washer
5-3/8" flat washers
2-3/8" nuts (with locking on BOTTOM of nut)
1-3/8"x2" bolt
1-3/8" R. hand thead rod end
1-3/8" L.hand thread rod end
1-3" long sleeve drilled for the rod ends (you are going to have to let a mchine shop handle this one)
1-New belt, Gator back preffered. I cant give a part # because everyones truck is going to be different and not everyone is going to cut the bracket exactly like I did. It is all a tight fit for sure but once you get it figured out its awsome.
We'll start with the removal process. What needs to be kept in mind is that this has not been tested (to my knowledge) on a truck with a mechanical fan so electric fans ARE preffered.
REMOVAL:
1. Disconnect your ( - ) battery cable.
2. Remove your Alternator.
3. Remove the ALT bracket that bolts to the exhaust manifold - now this is a part you dont have to do but if you want to keep it you will have to slot it. I tossed mine years ago and never had any problems.
4. Remove power steering pulley from pump. You can rent a pulley puller for free at Auto Zone.
5. Remove 3 power steering bolts. At this point, the pump should just fall down and you may have to wiggle it some to get it out of the way.
6. Remove ALT / PWR STR bracket. There are 5 bolts.
7. Remove AC compressor.
8. Remove idler pulley form the AC bracket.
9. Use a deep wall 9/16" (I think, its been awhile) to remove one of the nuts holding the AC bracket in place.
10. Remove remaining bolts holding bracket in place. Now on my truck, I couldnt get the lower bolt off w/o removing the radiator hose. So to ensure that I would never be tempted to re-use the AC bracket, I broke the bastard off then removed the bolt. Abe's truck was different, him and Austin got the bolt off with some time and patience. Patience I didnt have. So this is up to you.
11. Remove the upper right WATER PUMP BOLT. Some folks find this confusing :lol:
12. Now you are ready to hack up a new ALT bracket. Here are some pics I took. If these are real confusing, I have another bracket ready to be cut for sale and I could cut it up tomorrow and take pics as I go along.
Here is the bracket showing where to cut, its quite a bit and is very difficult
And from the side
And the front. Sorry my MSPAINT skills suck.
INSTALLATION:
1. Install the newly hacked up ALT bracket. You should have retained all 5 mounting bolts, if not, you did somethign very wrong.
2. Install the Power steering pump
3. Take your ALT and drill the left hole (passenger side) to 3/8" or 7/16". You need to do this so that you can use it as a pivot when tightening the tensioner.
4. You are going to have to take the piece of all thread and measure the line up of the lower tensioner mount to figure out where to cut it. If I have to take mine apart I guess I will and give detailed measurements. Now take your all-thread and screw it into the upper right water pump bolt hole. I left an extra 1/2" so I could tighten it with some pliers.
5. Place hte lock washer over the stud.
6. Now take the 2" nut and cut about 1/3 to 1/2 off. Then screw it on the stud and tighten it against the lock washer.
7. Install one flat washer.
8. Install your tensioner.
9. Install another flat washer.
10. Install a locking nut.
11. Place your ALT on the bracket and retain with the long bolt but dont tighten yet.
12. Grab your 3/8"x2" bolt and install on flat washer.
13. Insert this bolt into the drilled out hole on the ALT.
14. Place one flat washer on the other side.
15. Slide bolt through the other end of the tensioner.
16. Install a flat washer.
17. Install your other locking nut on the back side.
18. Install your belt with the tensioner totally collapsed. Over the crank, under the water pump, over the ALT, over the PWR STR PMP and back over the crank.
19. Adjust your tensioner til belt is firm then tighten all your nuts and bolts that deal with any kind of adjustment.
20. Hook your wiring back up and your bat cable and you should be done. Here are some finished pics of what it all looks like.
This shows how the bracket gets cut up
And another
This is what it should look like when completed
The belt can be a bitch to get on so it may seem like your belt is too short but I had to pry mine on and there was plenty of adjustment even under the circumstances. If anyoen feels they really wnat to do this but doesnt think they can I will buil;d this kit for $210 shipped (in 48 ofcourse). Otherwise good luck and let me know how it goes. I love to see people do this because its a true delete IMO, no crap on the passenger side, period :tup:
PARTS needed:
1-piece of 3/8" all-thread
1-3/8"x2" nut
1-3/8" lock washer
5-3/8" flat washers
2-3/8" nuts (with locking on BOTTOM of nut)
1-3/8"x2" bolt
1-3/8" R. hand thead rod end
1-3/8" L.hand thread rod end
1-3" long sleeve drilled for the rod ends (you are going to have to let a mchine shop handle this one)
1-New belt, Gator back preffered. I cant give a part # because everyones truck is going to be different and not everyone is going to cut the bracket exactly like I did. It is all a tight fit for sure but once you get it figured out its awsome.
We'll start with the removal process. What needs to be kept in mind is that this has not been tested (to my knowledge) on a truck with a mechanical fan so electric fans ARE preffered.
REMOVAL:
1. Disconnect your ( - ) battery cable.
2. Remove your Alternator.
3. Remove the ALT bracket that bolts to the exhaust manifold - now this is a part you dont have to do but if you want to keep it you will have to slot it. I tossed mine years ago and never had any problems.
4. Remove power steering pulley from pump. You can rent a pulley puller for free at Auto Zone.
5. Remove 3 power steering bolts. At this point, the pump should just fall down and you may have to wiggle it some to get it out of the way.
6. Remove ALT / PWR STR bracket. There are 5 bolts.
7. Remove AC compressor.
8. Remove idler pulley form the AC bracket.
9. Use a deep wall 9/16" (I think, its been awhile) to remove one of the nuts holding the AC bracket in place.
10. Remove remaining bolts holding bracket in place. Now on my truck, I couldnt get the lower bolt off w/o removing the radiator hose. So to ensure that I would never be tempted to re-use the AC bracket, I broke the bastard off then removed the bolt. Abe's truck was different, him and Austin got the bolt off with some time and patience. Patience I didnt have. So this is up to you.
11. Remove the upper right WATER PUMP BOLT. Some folks find this confusing :lol:
12. Now you are ready to hack up a new ALT bracket. Here are some pics I took. If these are real confusing, I have another bracket ready to be cut for sale and I could cut it up tomorrow and take pics as I go along.
Here is the bracket showing where to cut, its quite a bit and is very difficult
And from the side
And the front. Sorry my MSPAINT skills suck.
INSTALLATION:
1. Install the newly hacked up ALT bracket. You should have retained all 5 mounting bolts, if not, you did somethign very wrong.
2. Install the Power steering pump
3. Take your ALT and drill the left hole (passenger side) to 3/8" or 7/16". You need to do this so that you can use it as a pivot when tightening the tensioner.
4. You are going to have to take the piece of all thread and measure the line up of the lower tensioner mount to figure out where to cut it. If I have to take mine apart I guess I will and give detailed measurements. Now take your all-thread and screw it into the upper right water pump bolt hole. I left an extra 1/2" so I could tighten it with some pliers.
5. Place hte lock washer over the stud.
6. Now take the 2" nut and cut about 1/3 to 1/2 off. Then screw it on the stud and tighten it against the lock washer.
7. Install one flat washer.
8. Install your tensioner.
9. Install another flat washer.
10. Install a locking nut.
11. Place your ALT on the bracket and retain with the long bolt but dont tighten yet.
12. Grab your 3/8"x2" bolt and install on flat washer.
13. Insert this bolt into the drilled out hole on the ALT.
14. Place one flat washer on the other side.
15. Slide bolt through the other end of the tensioner.
16. Install a flat washer.
17. Install your other locking nut on the back side.
18. Install your belt with the tensioner totally collapsed. Over the crank, under the water pump, over the ALT, over the PWR STR PMP and back over the crank.
19. Adjust your tensioner til belt is firm then tighten all your nuts and bolts that deal with any kind of adjustment.
20. Hook your wiring back up and your bat cable and you should be done. Here are some finished pics of what it all looks like.
This shows how the bracket gets cut up
And another
This is what it should look like when completed
The belt can be a bitch to get on so it may seem like your belt is too short but I had to pry mine on and there was plenty of adjustment even under the circumstances. If anyoen feels they really wnat to do this but doesnt think they can I will buil;d this kit for $210 shipped (in 48 ofcourse). Otherwise good luck and let me know how it goes. I love to see people do this because its a true delete IMO, no crap on the passenger side, period :tup:
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