1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
- Thread starter Quickstop [UK]
- Start date
The Bronze
New member
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
If indeed the PCM is allowing some small amount of current to pass, then you could use the PCM to ground-control a relay that would complete the circuit to ground for the bulb. Added complexity for sure, but that would remove the problem.
If indeed the PCM is allowing some small amount of current to pass, then you could use the PCM to ground-control a relay that would complete the circuit to ground for the bulb. Added complexity for sure, but that would remove the problem.
![Quickstop [UK]](/data/avatars/m/5/5165.jpg?1570199786){kind=avatar}
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
I do it with the enmgine off according to the manual - 0 lash then 1 turn preload. Worked fine before and has done so on another truck. I thought about hot lashing but they all sound shit so I think they are the wrong lifters for my truck. I tightened up a pair yesterday and within a minute or two, they were loose again. I'm not prepared to have the truck sound like that every time I start it so the new ones are on the way. :banghead:
That's not a bad idea - I wonder how small a relay I can install though....
I do it with the enmgine off according to the manual - 0 lash then 1 turn preload. Worked fine before and has done so on another truck. I thought about hot lashing but they all sound shit so I think they are the wrong lifters for my truck. I tightened up a pair yesterday and within a minute or two, they were loose again. I'm not prepared to have the truck sound like that every time I start it so the new ones are on the way. :banghead:
That's not a bad idea - I wonder how small a relay I can install though....
TYTILIDIE
METH HEAD
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
The only time I ever adjust off is if I can see the top of the lifters. One more time, I would adjust while running turn it off let it sit and fire it back up and see before I actually replaced them. I always adjust cold on a new motor for start up purposes only, it doesn't get any better than a running adjust after start up IMO.
The only time I ever adjust off is if I can see the top of the lifters. One more time, I would adjust while running turn it off let it sit and fire it back up and see before I actually replaced them. I always adjust cold on a new motor for start up purposes only, it doesn't get any better than a running adjust after start up IMO.
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
I'm sure that gives a great adjustment but my problem isn't making the adjustment, it's the lifters losing pressure. I could get them perfect and then turn the engine off and 5 min later they have drained and when I next start, the truck sounds like even more of a POS than it normally does
I'm hoping they get here by Friday so I can put the whole thing back together - again.
3rd time lucky?
I'm sure that gives a great adjustment but my problem isn't making the adjustment, it's the lifters losing pressure. I could get them perfect and then turn the engine off and 5 min later they have drained and when I next start, the truck sounds like even more of a POS than it normally does
I'm hoping they get here by Friday so I can put the whole thing back together - again.
3rd time lucky?
bezerk
New member
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
are all the lifters loosing pressure? of just a few?
I'm sure that gives a great adjustment but my problem isn't making the adjustment, it's the lifters losing pressure. I could get them perfect and then turn the engine off and 5 min later they have drained and when I next start, the truck sounds like even more of a POS than it normally does
I'm hoping they get here by Friday so I can put the whole thing back together - again.
3rd time lucky?
are all the lifters loosing pressure? of just a few?
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
Seems like all of them but I checked the truck and had 50-60 psi in there. :dunno:
previous attempt to fix it
Seems like all of them but I checked the truck and had 50-60 psi in there. :dunno:
previous attempt to fix it
alwayscode390
pppssssshhhhhtttttttttttt
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
Which lifters are you having problems with , the 875s or the 850s ? ---
Which lifters are you having problems with , the 875s or the 850s ? ---
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
I took out the 875s and found two collapsible ones. I put in 850s and now they all rattle and sound like shit.
I took out the 875s and found two collapsible ones. I put in 850s and now they all rattle and sound like shit.
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
New lifters are out for delivery so I'm tearing down the engine this morning and hope to be able to rebuild it when they get here...
New lifters are out for delivery so I'm tearing down the engine this morning and hope to be able to rebuild it when they get here...
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
New lifters in, rattling gone.
Comp check on 1, 3 and 5 = 120, 120 and 150.
Going to check 2,4 and 6 now. I hope it's just an error with the valve adjust but this is the same issue a friend of mine had with his truck.
Edit: Jesus, these lifters are tricky. I can get between 120-160 psi with almost NO MOVEMENT of the rocker nut. Talk about a precision adjustment. I'm going cylinder by cylinder..
New lifters in, rattling gone.
Comp check on 1, 3 and 5 = 120, 120 and 150.
Going to check 2,4 and 6 now. I hope it's just an error with the valve adjust but this is the same issue a friend of mine had with his truck.
Edit: Jesus, these lifters are tricky. I can get between 120-160 psi with almost NO MOVEMENT of the rocker nut. Talk about a precision adjustment. I'm going cylinder by cylinder..
Last edited:
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
Trust me, you have to be really careful otherwise the compression varies greatly. Using the same method, I got 150, 165, 150, 160, 170 and ??? on 1,3,5, 2 and 4. (didn't bother with 6).
Trust me, you have to be really careful otherwise the compression varies greatly. Using the same method, I got 150, 165, 150, 160, 170 and ??? on 1,3,5, 2 and 4. (didn't bother with 6).
alwayscode390
pppssssshhhhhtttttttttttt
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
So you are using the 875s again , right? Very touchy with the adjustment ... but are they quiet this time around? ---
So you are using the 875s again , right? Very touchy with the adjustment ... but are they quiet this time around? ---
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
Yeah, 875s again. The rattling is gone and they seem a lot quieter. I started up the engine and it's a night and day difference.
I just went round each cylinder doing a comp check. Now I need to set the FP properly and adjust the timing.
I heard a bang/backfire and I could see fuel igniting in the crossover pipe so I need to work out what that is, apart from the crossover not being installed correctly!
I also got my pyro and some other minor things today so I am goint to turn to the interior shortly.
While I was doing the cylinder comp checks, I put my borescope into #4 and took some pictures of the screen. When I am done in the garage I'll post them up.
Yeah, 875s again. The rattling is gone and they seem a lot quieter. I started up the engine and it's a night and day difference.
I just went round each cylinder doing a comp check. Now I need to set the FP properly and adjust the timing.
I heard a bang/backfire and I could see fuel igniting in the crossover pipe so I need to work out what that is, apart from the crossover not being installed correctly!
I also got my pyro and some other minor things today so I am goint to turn to the interior shortly.
While I was doing the cylinder comp checks, I put my borescope into #4 and took some pictures of the screen. When I am done in the garage I'll post them up.
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
I’ve had 10 days off after my second term exams so spent my time doing a few jobs. First on the list was the lower IC fan wiring which I connected via a stock relay. By doing the IC pump hotwire, I freed up an ECM controlled ground and this operates the relay so even when the car is stationary, I have airflow over the lower IC. I have one for now but may even try for another someday. The installation is very similar to a stock setup so I am very pleased with the result.
I had big plans to get the truck ready for an MOT and then a dyno but I was met with a plethora of problems. First was the fuel pump – for some reason it died but after giving the truck some new petrol and powering it on and off, it came back to life. I am quite impulsive and on first sighting of a problem, I order a spare. Better to need it that not though right? The new pump arrived but I think the old one is ok. I’ll keep the spare for the time being. They’re common to Mitsubishis and other Japanese cars so freely available in the UK for about £55 if you’re looking.
However, on start, the car sounded like an absolute bucket of bolts. It was horrendous. I thought I had a damaged crank or the pistons were dropping onto the floor of the garage but the car hasn’t been driven so it couldn’t have been that. I had high oil pressure (50psi) so I tore off the valve covers and tried adjusting the valves but they kept on compressing, rattling and throwing off the compression settings. I made the decision to tear down the engine and replace all the hydraulic lifters. This slowed me down so I set about doing some other jobs that have been on the back burner.
Some of you may be aware that the steering can feel a bit sloppy. One of the repair options is to replace a bearing at the firewall. Originally there is a white plastic cup which the shaft rotates at the pint where the shaft enters the column. This can wear down and allow movement into the assembly.
I took out the old piece and replaced it with a new design which made the column extremely firm. I have now done everything possible to the front steering. The only other potential upgrade is a rack and pinion setup. It should feel pretty good when (if) I get it roadworthy again. While I was in there I wire brushed the collar and spray painted it black so it looks good. Now I need to do the rest of the column housing!
I have the Jeep steering shaft and took it off to gain access to the collar/bearing and noticed that the bolts holding it in are the wrong kind. I had some spare shiny ARP 16 point bolts so installed them as they were the correct fit. They make the shaft look a bit rubbish though so I am not sure what I should do to bring it up to the same standard.
The Jeep shaft places the wheel at 90* to right of centre so I rekeyed the steering locking plate to the correct angle. This involved a 30 second job with a file. I also installed a lock plate retaining ring which is basically a small key ring sized clip that holds the locking plate in place.
The steering column is now very firm, locks securely and releases easily as well. Seeing as I have had to install the ring, replace the bearing and also replace the lock barrel mechanism, I should hope so! It’s starting to feel like a different truck.
My lifters were due to arrive from the USA on Wednesday morning via FedEx so I got to work first thing. I had the engine stripped down to the lower intake in about 2 hours and started cleaning off all the gasket material and prepping for the install. Just as I finished, the FedEx man arrived and handed me the goods. I opened up the box and inserted the lifters into some oil while I prepped the gaskets.
I’ve done this before and one of the things I didn’t like was the way that the gaskets can slide so this time I applied the RTV permatex black ultra to the gasket and then applied the gasket to the lower intake, making sure that the holes were all lined up. Normally I apply the RTV to the heads, then the gaskets, then the lower intake. This time however, there was a lot less mess, I know the gaskets were placed optimally and it went together smoothly. I cranked down the bolts and started building the engine back up. I had it reassembled by about 6pm and started trying to start it. The truck started but it needed a LOT of throttle and was spluttering and backfiring. Aside from a 10 minute tea break, I’d been in the garage for 10 hours by this point and was starting to make mistakes so I called it a night.
The following morning, I started investigating the backfiring which initially I took for a spark. I could see a flash of light and though a cable was shorting out. On closer inspection it turned out I was looking directly into the crossover pipe and was seeing unburnt fuel in the crossover exploding. Something was amiss so I checked everything over again and found #3 and #5 were swapped. After I changed them over, the truck ran much better! I now know that I need to adjust the crossover pipe as well but that shouldn’t be too bad.
It wasn’t quite right still so I did a compression check on all the cylinders. This has caught me out in the past so when I got 120 psi on all cylinders, I was a bit disappointed and slightly worried. Memories of Marcus’ blown headgasket ran through my head – I was convinced at one point that I had the same problem. Thankfully I had documented my efforts last summer and I had 165psi on all the cylinders. I don’t think it’s possible to blow a headgasket without the engine running so I started adjusting the lifters on each cylinder and doing a compression check, one cylinder at a time.
Turn crank, get up, check for TDC/BDC, get down, turn crank to TDC, get up, adjust 1 valve, do comp test. Repeat if necessary, or move on x 12!!! This took me quite a while but in the end I had about 155, 155, 150, 170 and 155psi on 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 (#6 was inaccessible due to the downpipe and I gave up). The adjustment method is pretty fiddly and may have been hampered by the lifters not getting enough oil until the car has been running for a bit. I did prime the engine but there’s no way to really know if I was completely correct in this approach. There was only a 10-15% difference between cylinders and this is considered acceptable so I left it at that. I also noticed that I had approximately 10 psi on start more than before. I think this is attributable to the design of the lifters.
I borescoped #4 and saw some scrape marks in there - I hope they're from the borescope and not the valves hitting the pistons.
The truck ran much better and sounded very good indeed. I have always had a ticking noise and I think this is down to a mistake I made when I first assembled it. The noise appears to have gone and I have attributed it to 2 collapsed lifters that I removed. Once I have the exhaust crossover sealed properly, it should be a quiet engine. The exhaust is a different matter entirely but that is a deliberate design. Lifter problems
I rewired my dash and a few other things to make the underside of the parcel shelf and passenger seat area more clutter free and I am pleased with the results. I have a new PLX gauge on the way (DM 6 multi gauge) and also now have an Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge. It’s basically cosmetic as it isn’t much good as a tuning tool but it fills a hole and should be interesting when the turbo and alky are powered up! I need to get a bung welded in to the down pipe and it is SS so is another little job for me. I might be able to get away with a drill/tap but I’m not sure about tapping stainless steel (RPM downpipe).
I’ve had 10 days off after my second term exams so spent my time doing a few jobs. First on the list was the lower IC fan wiring which I connected via a stock relay. By doing the IC pump hotwire, I freed up an ECM controlled ground and this operates the relay so even when the car is stationary, I have airflow over the lower IC. I have one for now but may even try for another someday. The installation is very similar to a stock setup so I am very pleased with the result.
I had big plans to get the truck ready for an MOT and then a dyno but I was met with a plethora of problems. First was the fuel pump – for some reason it died but after giving the truck some new petrol and powering it on and off, it came back to life. I am quite impulsive and on first sighting of a problem, I order a spare. Better to need it that not though right? The new pump arrived but I think the old one is ok. I’ll keep the spare for the time being. They’re common to Mitsubishis and other Japanese cars so freely available in the UK for about £55 if you’re looking.
However, on start, the car sounded like an absolute bucket of bolts. It was horrendous. I thought I had a damaged crank or the pistons were dropping onto the floor of the garage but the car hasn’t been driven so it couldn’t have been that. I had high oil pressure (50psi) so I tore off the valve covers and tried adjusting the valves but they kept on compressing, rattling and throwing off the compression settings. I made the decision to tear down the engine and replace all the hydraulic lifters. This slowed me down so I set about doing some other jobs that have been on the back burner.
Some of you may be aware that the steering can feel a bit sloppy. One of the repair options is to replace a bearing at the firewall. Originally there is a white plastic cup which the shaft rotates at the pint where the shaft enters the column. This can wear down and allow movement into the assembly.
I took out the old piece and replaced it with a new design which made the column extremely firm. I have now done everything possible to the front steering. The only other potential upgrade is a rack and pinion setup. It should feel pretty good when (if) I get it roadworthy again. While I was in there I wire brushed the collar and spray painted it black so it looks good. Now I need to do the rest of the column housing!
I have the Jeep steering shaft and took it off to gain access to the collar/bearing and noticed that the bolts holding it in are the wrong kind. I had some spare shiny ARP 16 point bolts so installed them as they were the correct fit. They make the shaft look a bit rubbish though so I am not sure what I should do to bring it up to the same standard.
The Jeep shaft places the wheel at 90* to right of centre so I rekeyed the steering locking plate to the correct angle. This involved a 30 second job with a file. I also installed a lock plate retaining ring which is basically a small key ring sized clip that holds the locking plate in place.
The steering column is now very firm, locks securely and releases easily as well. Seeing as I have had to install the ring, replace the bearing and also replace the lock barrel mechanism, I should hope so! It’s starting to feel like a different truck.
My lifters were due to arrive from the USA on Wednesday morning via FedEx so I got to work first thing. I had the engine stripped down to the lower intake in about 2 hours and started cleaning off all the gasket material and prepping for the install. Just as I finished, the FedEx man arrived and handed me the goods. I opened up the box and inserted the lifters into some oil while I prepped the gaskets.
I’ve done this before and one of the things I didn’t like was the way that the gaskets can slide so this time I applied the RTV permatex black ultra to the gasket and then applied the gasket to the lower intake, making sure that the holes were all lined up. Normally I apply the RTV to the heads, then the gaskets, then the lower intake. This time however, there was a lot less mess, I know the gaskets were placed optimally and it went together smoothly. I cranked down the bolts and started building the engine back up. I had it reassembled by about 6pm and started trying to start it. The truck started but it needed a LOT of throttle and was spluttering and backfiring. Aside from a 10 minute tea break, I’d been in the garage for 10 hours by this point and was starting to make mistakes so I called it a night.
The following morning, I started investigating the backfiring which initially I took for a spark. I could see a flash of light and though a cable was shorting out. On closer inspection it turned out I was looking directly into the crossover pipe and was seeing unburnt fuel in the crossover exploding. Something was amiss so I checked everything over again and found #3 and #5 were swapped. After I changed them over, the truck ran much better! I now know that I need to adjust the crossover pipe as well but that shouldn’t be too bad.
It wasn’t quite right still so I did a compression check on all the cylinders. This has caught me out in the past so when I got 120 psi on all cylinders, I was a bit disappointed and slightly worried. Memories of Marcus’ blown headgasket ran through my head – I was convinced at one point that I had the same problem. Thankfully I had documented my efforts last summer and I had 165psi on all the cylinders. I don’t think it’s possible to blow a headgasket without the engine running so I started adjusting the lifters on each cylinder and doing a compression check, one cylinder at a time.
Turn crank, get up, check for TDC/BDC, get down, turn crank to TDC, get up, adjust 1 valve, do comp test. Repeat if necessary, or move on x 12!!! This took me quite a while but in the end I had about 155, 155, 150, 170 and 155psi on 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 (#6 was inaccessible due to the downpipe and I gave up). The adjustment method is pretty fiddly and may have been hampered by the lifters not getting enough oil until the car has been running for a bit. I did prime the engine but there’s no way to really know if I was completely correct in this approach. There was only a 10-15% difference between cylinders and this is considered acceptable so I left it at that. I also noticed that I had approximately 10 psi on start more than before. I think this is attributable to the design of the lifters.
I borescoped #4 and saw some scrape marks in there - I hope they're from the borescope and not the valves hitting the pistons.
The truck ran much better and sounded very good indeed. I have always had a ticking noise and I think this is down to a mistake I made when I first assembled it. The noise appears to have gone and I have attributed it to 2 collapsed lifters that I removed. Once I have the exhaust crossover sealed properly, it should be a quiet engine. The exhaust is a different matter entirely but that is a deliberate design. Lifter problems
I rewired my dash and a few other things to make the underside of the parcel shelf and passenger seat area more clutter free and I am pleased with the results. I have a new PLX gauge on the way (DM 6 multi gauge) and also now have an Exhaust Gas Temperature gauge. It’s basically cosmetic as it isn’t much good as a tuning tool but it fills a hole and should be interesting when the turbo and alky are powered up! I need to get a bung welded in to the down pipe and it is SS so is another little job for me. I might be able to get away with a drill/tap but I’m not sure about tapping stainless steel (RPM downpipe).
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
My P/N safety switch was playing up so I set that correctly and now the truck will start in N which is important. I lost power one night in the US and had to come to a stop to start again. I couldn’t stop that fast as the power to the brakes was gone… Not fun. Now it’s fixed.
I reassembled the centre console and put it all back together. Whilst I did that I noticed my glovebox light was intermittently coming on and off. I fixed that and for good measure, replaced the bulb with an LED. It looks pretty good in there now!
I ran out of time and am back to London tonight. I had hoped to pass the MOT but the best insurance quote I could get was £900 and I don’t really need to drive the car so until I move from London, I don’t think I’ll be able to insure the car. This is frustrating as I will be here for the next 4 years at least. Motoring in the UK is a total ripoff.
That's why I will probably end up sticking to these!:
My P/N safety switch was playing up so I set that correctly and now the truck will start in N which is important. I lost power one night in the US and had to come to a stop to start again. I couldn’t stop that fast as the power to the brakes was gone… Not fun. Now it’s fixed.
I reassembled the centre console and put it all back together. Whilst I did that I noticed my glovebox light was intermittently coming on and off. I fixed that and for good measure, replaced the bulb with an LED. It looks pretty good in there now!
I ran out of time and am back to London tonight. I had hoped to pass the MOT but the best insurance quote I could get was £900 and I don’t really need to drive the car so until I move from London, I don’t think I’ll be able to insure the car. This is frustrating as I will be here for the next 4 years at least. Motoring in the UK is a total ripoff.
That's why I will probably end up sticking to these!:
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
See here
Installed the stock under hood lamp minus the correct connector so I need to find the correct mate for it.
Only the really observant will get this:
:rotf:
Fitting for rear lights as per this thread about reverse lights.
I had no luck with this thread either.
Jobs completed this weekend:
EGT installed and PLX wired up. Why in God's name they need an 8v supply I have no idea.
This is possibly the least amount of return on work that I have ever done but I shall try to explain why it was necessary...
I did the LED install a while back and had a problem with the CEL staying on albeit dim. This is to do with the ground being through the ECM and a small amount of current flowing - not enough for a regular bulb to light but enough for an LED. They have interesting properties.
In order to get the light to go out, I had a couple of options:
1) Replace with a bulb (cluster out) - easiest but I felt that I liked the LED brightness.
2) Wire relay from the ECM to the LED (cluster out again) to ground the LED an alternate route. A ticking relay is kind of annoying.
3) Place a resistor of the correct value inline to prevent current flow. The problem with this is that too little and there is a light (MOT Fail) and too much resistance and the light never comes on!
The green wire is basically an extension of that lead so that I can find the correct potentiometer and wire that in series until I find the right value. I had to take off the cluster, find the correct lead (which differs in the Saudi vs US models - 419 - Brown/White which then converts to Gray/White at one of the bulkheads) and then splice in to it and replace. Most people would probably live with it but it was annoying me and it's also an inspection fail so either way, it had to be done. (That's just an excuse :rotf.
No pics but here is what else we accomplished:
- DM6 install - (stupid 8v connector)
- Rear wiper epainted and installed
- Under hood lamp installed 50% as I need the leads
- Breather filter replaced. The silver mushroom one looked like a butt plug :rainbow:. FIXED.
- Exhaust crossover leak sealed as best as possible.
- I installed an LED that was for the rear of the cluster while I did the CEL.
- EGT Gauge wiring (minues one of the nuts on the back of the thermocouple)
Indicator flasher not working - turns out the ground connector for the parking lamps is intermittent - took an age to find that but now I know!
It was a busy weekend but there was a lot going on especially with the new purchase.
See here
Installed the stock under hood lamp minus the correct connector so I need to find the correct mate for it.
Only the really observant will get this:
:rotf:
Fitting for rear lights as per this thread about reverse lights.
I had no luck with this thread either.
Jobs completed this weekend:
EGT installed and PLX wired up. Why in God's name they need an 8v supply I have no idea.
This is possibly the least amount of return on work that I have ever done but I shall try to explain why it was necessary...
I did the LED install a while back and had a problem with the CEL staying on albeit dim. This is to do with the ground being through the ECM and a small amount of current flowing - not enough for a regular bulb to light but enough for an LED. They have interesting properties.
In order to get the light to go out, I had a couple of options:
1) Replace with a bulb (cluster out) - easiest but I felt that I liked the LED brightness.
2) Wire relay from the ECM to the LED (cluster out again) to ground the LED an alternate route. A ticking relay is kind of annoying.
3) Place a resistor of the correct value inline to prevent current flow. The problem with this is that too little and there is a light (MOT Fail) and too much resistance and the light never comes on!
The green wire is basically an extension of that lead so that I can find the correct potentiometer and wire that in series until I find the right value. I had to take off the cluster, find the correct lead (which differs in the Saudi vs US models - 419 - Brown/White which then converts to Gray/White at one of the bulkheads) and then splice in to it and replace. Most people would probably live with it but it was annoying me and it's also an inspection fail so either way, it had to be done. (That's just an excuse :rotf
.No pics but here is what else we accomplished:
- DM6 install - (stupid 8v connector)
- Rear wiper epainted and installed
- Under hood lamp installed 50% as I need the leads
- Breather filter replaced. The silver mushroom one looked like a butt plug :rainbow:. FIXED.
- Exhaust crossover leak sealed as best as possible.
- I installed an LED that was for the rear of the cluster while I did the CEL.
- EGT Gauge wiring (minues one of the nuts on the back of the thermocouple)
Indicator flasher not working - turns out the ground connector for the parking lamps is intermittent - took an age to find that but now I know!
It was a busy weekend but there was a lot going on especially with the new purchase.
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: 1992 Typhoon 0546 rebuild
Passed my first year of med school! Now on to my summer holidays and some work on the trucks... Feels weird to say trucks!.
Typhoon first...
Installed the antenna! I figured out a way to thread the antenna base through the fender without removing the whole thing. The two side screws aren't in there but it seems solid enough with the antenna base nut holding it all together.
It was a good feeling sitting in the truck last night listenting to some radio with the eery glow of the 1980s technology glowing brightly at me.
I also received my dual LEDs
So I can wave goodbye to this abortion...
I also installed an LED panel interior light - it is an array of 4 x 3 LEDs and has an adaptor to fit into the stock socket.
It's like driving around with the sun. It was blindingly bright. Not sure if the extra LEDs will negate the supposed benefits of reduced current draw but it's certainly brighter...
Off to get the DP welded for the SS bung for the EGT sensor. Should be a busy weekend!
Passed my first year of med school! Now on to my summer holidays and some work on the trucks... Feels weird to say trucks!.
Typhoon first...
Installed the antenna! I figured out a way to thread the antenna base through the fender without removing the whole thing. The two side screws aren't in there but it seems solid enough with the antenna base nut holding it all together.
It was a good feeling sitting in the truck last night listenting to some radio with the eery glow of the 1980s technology glowing brightly at me.
I also received my dual LEDs
So I can wave goodbye to this abortion...
I also installed an LED panel interior light - it is an array of 4 x 3 LEDs and has an adaptor to fit into the stock socket.
It's like driving around with the sun. It was blindingly bright. Not sure if the extra LEDs will negate the supposed benefits of reduced current draw but it's certainly brighter...
Off to get the DP welded for the SS bung for the EGT sensor. Should be a busy weekend!
