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That is great you will be receiving some great help now.

It sounded in your other post that your AFR's were not that for off. If that is the case then table F29x is the table that you should adjust your AFR in. If you have a tune that is running OK now you should save it so you can load it back in if you screw up with your adjustments. All you have...

I am not that good setting up stuff like that. Have you downloaded Code$59? That is what you need on a laptop to tune a SyTy through the Ostrich. I can tune with Code$59 if the truck is in front of me but remotely I am not much help. I am sending you a message with more info.

If you have an Ostrich 2.0 and tunerpro you can adjust your AFR to exaxtly what you need. At WOT with alky you probably want about 11.0.

I don't remember the exact shade of grey that I ordered. It was probably medium. But I just don't recall.

Is it throwing any trouble codes.

I have one new mount available.. I put the other JSM solid on one side and a stock rubber on the other. That way no more broken motor mounts and I did not feel any vibration that is so common when using solid mounts on both sides. Let me know if you have any interest in the one.

Dave is better than the manual. He knows the little tricks to get things done in addition to what the manual says.

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Here is a video of the Renz LS1 cable attachment. This is probably the info you need. If not I can take a pic.

There are no instructions included. Two cables and brackets. I have never looked at the routing. The brackets look pretty straight forward. I just looked at a YouTube vid the showed the bracket and cable attachment at the rear end so a visual can be found there. On the routing of the cables. I...

I do not think so. A special set was made for Syclones.

This may not be any help or something you don't want to do. If a person could find someone that was able to weld them up a downpipe. Then it could be made for a V-band or whatever you wanted for your turbo. Just an idea.

This is still available. Brand new never installed.

I am pretty sure that those are pieces I have. I believe they have one crack in each piece of cladding.

It is possible a connecter or wire may have been knocked loose or broken while the vacuum hoses were installed. Like, say to the fuel injector harness or even the white and red wires to the distributor. It is tight in the engine compartment and those trucks are getting old. Those wires can break...

It is going to be very hard to locate a replacement dash. Caps can look fairly decent.

I was just having fun with you Jay. Checking for clearance with the oil pan is the right thing to do. It will need it for sure. Asking questions is the correct thing to do keep it up.

What are we going to do with you Jay? You are quite a mess.