What does anyone know about this Typhoon?

Merk

Merk

Donating Member
All I can say is this:

-nice wing :roll:
-needs a new console cover
-how old are these pictures?? (snowing in CO already?)
-"just a few rattles from added horsepower" -- joking, right?!

The truck does appear straight and looks nice. I'd bet if you did a search, you would find the owner and / or previous owner of this truck.

Does have some nice mods to it as well.


good luck bidding
 
92BlkTy

92BlkTy

New member
I dont remember it snowing in denver. its snowing in the mountains now, but has yet to hit the city. unless it was JUST in denver. which has been know to happen.

those pics are defineatly from last year. i remeber looking at that auction when it was still active and at the time we had only had 70 degree sunny days.
 
berzerker

berzerker

wookie
this ty has been for sale since last march or so . i live just a couple miles from him and have seen it on the street a few times. i passed him one day in my ty,, gave him the thumbs up . the truck looks sweet on the outside .nice hood . :drinking: :drinking: just whatever you do dont buy that ty from the dealership on colfax . major body repairs have been made and the engine is on its last leg . it smokes like locomotive
 
Jer

Jer

Don't taze me bro!
I looked at this truck/drove it last week. Where should I start? How 'bout what's wrong with it:

1) Saying it runs 'pig rich' would be an understatement. Don't believe me? Just look at the black mark left by the exhaust in three of the photos on eBay.

B) The rear defrost straps were cut from the glass... I assume because something was wrong and this was someone's great idea to fix it. I just realized reading back through the listing that he lists it as having rear defrost and that's a blatant lie as he know the wires were cut when the hatch was popped.

3) Rear hatch button doesn't work to pop the glass

4) Seems to have another problem at speed that is more than likely ignition related.

Also) The relocated battery is Led Acid (in the cabin.. led acid?? not a good idea) and the power cable can be seen running back under the rear seat for it. Running power wire can be a tremendous fire hazard if not done correctly and I would assume by the fact that the wire was half ass hidden that the rest of the project used the same amount of diligence.

6) Guy knows NOTHING about cars and especially Syclones/Typhoons

7) Asked about a couple switches on the overhead console and one is an externally mounted fuel pump that only needs to be run some of the time (see #6) and the second one is a switch that helps the car get better fuel economy when cruising on the highway by locking up the transmission (see #6)

Eight) Transmission didn't seem to shift real firm.

9) Wouldn't idle at a stop or in reverse unless you held revs up with gas (he said it was worse w/the A/C on.

J) A/C didn't work

11) Everything under the good was wrapped w/cheap heat wrap and wire was wrapped around exhaust parts and intake hoses randomly to hold it on which wasn't doing the job well because it was hanging off in places (see #6)

Eleventy-Three) Had to pump to start (Probably fouled plugs due to extremely rich condition for quite some time as he said it's run that way as long as he owned it and he didn't tune it because it was the 'safe' way to run it (see #6)

13) Laptop included is something fresh out of 1989 w/a 5" screen and no working battery that you have to boot in DOS and that is what you use to run the Accel software.

14) Windows are advertised as tinted but only the rear hatch was tinted (aside from the rear sides polarized from factory) was done with cheap film that is turning purple and needs to be replaced (costs more to do than untinted windows as most window tinters HATE removing tint and charge handsomely for it).

15) Paint is NOT original (at least not all panels) and it's rougher than he says.

16) Wastegate on 20g welded at 17psi and when I questioned about it, he had no idea what I was talking about (see #6)

17) No floor mats

Eighteen) This truck will NOT run a 12.60... no way... no how.

19) He says that it runs 12.60 and in the very next sentence says that the fast Typhoons need a lot of work... what is he subliminally trying to warn you of about this Ty?

Ninja Explosion) The 'new copper head gaskets' were copper exhaust gaskets. Condition of actual head gaskets unknown.

21) Didn't know what a boost launch was (see #6)

22) He was a nice enough guy, but I would steer clear of this particular Ty for anything more than $8k.
 
9

93ty475

Donating Member
i bet i could fix the majority of that in a day + one all nighter...sounds like its got more than a few go fast goodies bolted onto it and relatively low mileage...could be saved for little or nothing...also someone already did the forged pistons and rods...i have no doubt the previous owner ran 12.6 at 103...sounds believable to me considering the upgrades...i wonder who owned it before him? my guess on the defrost straps is that someone replaced the hydraulic prop cylinders with non-defrost ones...the switch "to lock up the transmission" is just a t/c lockup switch...not a mod for conserving fuel...plus, the ecm controls normal lockup anyway...people use a direct switch to pick up a tenth or so in the 1/4 mile...not anything i would catch myself doing as i could care less about a tenth...whoever owned it before him, must have halfway known what was going on...
 
B

Baja Resident

New member
Some questions/thoughts....


Jer said:
I looked at this truck/drove it last week. Where should I start? How 'bout what's wrong with it:

1) Saying it runs 'pig rich' would be an understatement. Don't believe me? Just look at the black mark left by the exhaust in three of the photos on eBay.

I heard this is somewhat natural in a turbo without a controller installed, and it is necessary to relocate the O2 so the truck doesn't always compensate by pumping more fuel or something. Also, it has 50#inj, straight exhaust and no cats, so I assume this contributes heavily to the black mark.

B) The rear defrost straps were cut from the glass... I assume because something was wrong and this was someone's great idea to fix it. I just realized reading back through the listing that he lists it as having rear defrost and that's a blatant lie as he know the wires were cut when the hatch was popped.

Not important, but I assume this is fixable?

3) Rear hatch button doesn't work to pop the glass

Not important, but fixable?

4) Seems to have another problem at speed that is more than likely ignition related.

more details please

Also) The relocated battery is Led Acid (in the cabin.. led acid?? not a good idea) and the power cable can be seen running back under the rear seat for it. Running power wire can be a tremendous fire hazard if not done correctly and I would assume by the fact that the wire was half ass hidden that the rest of the project used the same amount of diligence.

batteries can be replaced easy enough right?

6) Guy knows NOTHING about cars and especially Syclones/Typhoons

irrelevant

7) Asked about a couple switches on the overhead console and one is an externally mounted fuel pump that only needs to be run some of the time (see #6) and the second one is a switch that helps the car get better fuel economy when cruising on the highway by locking up the transmission (see #6)

Why would the aux fuel pump only need ran "sometimes"? When did he say it was a good time to run it?

Eight) Transmission didn't seem to shift real firm.

more details please?


9) Wouldn't idle at a stop or in reverse unless you held revs up with gas (he said it was worse w/the A/C on.

Was it just a rough idle or would it not idle period?


J) A/C didn't work

at all?? wtf?? did it blow warm, not blow? huh??

11) Everything under the good was wrapped w/cheap heat wrap and wire was wrapped around exhaust parts and intake hoses randomly to hold it on which wasn't doing the job well because it was hanging off in places (see #6)

I saw extensive pics under the hood, wasn't very pretty but nothing broken and no leaks from what I saw. The wrap needed dressed up, but aside from that and perhaps the lack of a BOV and controller nothing stood out as wrong.

Eleventy-Three) Had to pump to start (Probably fouled plugs due to extremely rich condition for quite some time as he said it's run that way as long as he owned it and he didn't tune it because it was the 'safe' way to run it (see #6)

definitely agree it needs a tune up, plugs, wires, cap

13) Laptop included is something fresh out of 1989 w/a 5" screen and no working battery that you have to boot in DOS and that is what you use to run the Accel software.

didn't even know he was including one, lol


14) Windows are advertised as tinted but only the rear hatch was tinted (aside from the rear sides polarized from factory) was done with cheap film that is turning purple and needs to be replaced (costs more to do than untinted windows as most window tinters HATE removing tint and charge handsomely for it).

irrelevant to me, I have incredible tint guy


15) Paint is NOT original (at least not all panels) and it's rougher than he says.

how noticeable? it looks good in the pics, but that can be deceiving. Where are teh rough spots specifically?


16) Wastegate on 20g welded at 17psi and when I questioned about it, he had no idea what I was talking about (see #6)

it def could use a boost controller, but what do you mean "welded", isn't the wastegate adjustable manually?

17) No floor mats

NBD

Eighteen) This truck will NOT run a 12.60... no way... no how.

does it FEEL slow?


19) He says that it runs 12.60 and in the very next sentence says that the fast Typhoons need a lot of work... what is he subliminally trying to warn you of about this Ty?

looking at the pics under the hood its screaming for a tuneup, but with what's already been done to it you can't complain I would imagine


Ninja Explosion) The 'new copper head gaskets' were copper exhaust gaskets. Condition of actual head gaskets unknown.

he said it didn't leak, engine looks grimy but no apparent leaks


21) Didn't know what a boost launch was (see #6)

hey, that is a good thing


22) He was a nice enough guy, but I would steer clear of this particular Ty for anything more than $8k.
Click to expand...


I am in the middle of purchasing this Ty and will be driving to get it within a week. If anyone can give me some advice I would appreciate it greatly. From what I have heard so far it doesn't seem so bad, can anyone address those concerns?
 
P

PPI Typhoon

DIY Madman
I am in the middle of purchasing this Ty and will be driving to get it within a week. If anyone can give me some advice I would appreciate it greatly. From what I have heard so far it doesn't seem so bad, can anyone address those concerns?
Click to expand...

With all the points that you said are irrelevant........it sounds like you are trying to convince yourself that this is a good buy since you are looking at it. The points where you said it's not relevant ARE going to be a pain in the ass for anyone that buys that truck.

The fact that he doesn't know anything about SyTy's is a VERY huge deal IMO, because more harm can be done when the proper maintenance isn't performed on these trucks, especially being as old as they are.

It doesn't sound bad if the price was about 4k cheaper. IMO, I wouldn't pay anything over 9k for that thing. That's stretching it too.

My advice is..........tally up all it costs to fix that and take it off the price. For all the things you are saying aren't important, you are just wasting money if you pay what he wants for that. :roll:

SyTy's are enough of a pain when they're in good shape. That one is destined for a lot of repairs.
 
Jer

Jer

Don't taze me bro!
Baja Resident said:
Some questions/thoughts....


Jer said:
I looked at this truck/drove it last week. Where should I start? How 'bout what's wrong with it:

1) Saying it runs 'pig rich' would be an understatement. Don't believe me? Just look at the black mark left by the exhaust in three of the photos on eBay.

I heard this is somewhat natural in a turbo without a controller installed, and it is necessary to relocate the O2 so the truck doesn't always compensate by pumping more fuel or something. Also, it has 50#inj, straight exhaust and no cats, so I assume this contributes heavily to the black mark.

Spewing raw gas fuel out of the exhaust is most certainly not natural. It's a condition that exists until you take the necessary steps to resolve it by tuning. If he's owned it this long and done nothing, what else do you suppose has been ignored?


B) The rear defrost straps were cut from the glass... I assume because something was wrong and this was someone's great idea to fix it. I just realized reading back through the listing that he lists it as having rear defrost and that's a blatant lie as he know the wires were cut when the hatch was popped.

Not important, but I assume this is fixable?

Everything is fixable, but at what price? Since it was cut from the glass, you may have to replace the entire heating element which may require buying new glass if you want it OEM quality and reliability. Then there's the wires that were cut, not sure what it would require to fix those as I don't know how far you would have to dig to replace them with new ones. Then there's the mystery problem that caused someone to cut them to begin with... most likely a short that was not traced. When you resell this, it will be a big deal to the next person. Could be a deal breaker if they live in a colder state and want to drive in the winter.

3) Rear hatch button doesn't work to pop the glass

Not important, but fixable?

Again, not important to you for now. You could still use the keylock and tumbler to unlock the hatch to be able to drop the gate and access the rear. The rear tumblers are known for going out so when that happens you'll need to fix it or the hatch pop to even be able to access the rear area. Could be as simple as a new solenoid... could be much more. When buying used car w/known electrical issues and clear hack jobs.. plan for the worst on problems. This too could be a big deal to someone who may be interested in buying it.[/b]

4) Seems to have another problem at speed that is more than likely ignition related.

more details please

It shutters a considerable amount and will not accelerate smoothly under throttle. As I stated, could be just running that rich so that it is stumbling or it could be an ignition problem. He stated he has had some serious problems with the aftermarket heads melting plug boots/wires. Something to keep in mind

Also) The relocated battery is Led Acid (in the cabin.. led acid?? not a good idea) and the power cable can be seen running back under the rear seat for it. Running power wire can be a tremendous fire hazard if not done correctly and I would assume by the fact that the wire was half ass hidden that the rest of the project used the same amount of diligence.

batteries can be replaced easy enough right?

Sure, the battery can. You could pick up a new Optima Yellow or Red top for $150-$200 and pop it in. The bigger problem is the wires themselves. You'll need to retrace and probably re-run the power wire from the engine bay to the rear as I would NOT trust the wire as it sits. It's visible in the cab so whoever did it didn't take the time to route it correctly so I have no reason to believe they did it correctly. What I mean but this is if they didn't grommet it at the firewall or if it's up next to a screw or anything that can wear through the insulation it will ground out and WILL start a fire and melt you new truck down. This is a more common problem than you think with all the 'shade tree audio installers'. Buyer beware.

6) Guy knows NOTHING about cars and especially Syclones/Typhoons

irrelevant

This leads me to believe that you may not either. I wouldn't buy a vehicle from someone who didn't know anything about it because who knows how it was maintained. These are VERY particular vehicles and require even more knowledge base or they will go to pot. Again, if you don't care about this very important fact... good luck to you.

7) Asked about a couple switches on the overhead console and one is an externally mounted fuel pump that only needs to be run some of the time (see #6) and the second one is a switch that helps the car get better fuel economy when cruising on the highway by locking up the transmission (see #6)

Why would the aux fuel pump only need ran "sometimes"? When did he say it was a good time to run it?

That's a good question. Why would it??

Eight) Transmission didn't seem to shift real firm.

more details please?

It seemed to slip between gears under throttle a lot more than any of the other Typhoons I drove. History if transmission was unknown and the truck has ~90k miles so operate on the assumption that it's the original and on it's way out and will need attention very soon.

9) Wouldn't idle at a stop or in reverse unless you held revs up with gas (he said it was worse w/the A/C on.

Was it just a rough idle or would it not idle period?

It would not idle. It died a few times just trying to reverse out of the parking spot and to get out of the parking lot. Again, could be as simple as being VERY rich or could be something bigger. With all the other problems, plan for the latter to be safe

J) A/C didn't work

at all?? wtf?? did it blow warm, not blow? huh??

It would not idle when the A/C was on. Not sure if it even works as I didn't try it out. I think he was saying it didn't or just due to the fact it wouldn't idle and everything else I didn't care at this point.. not sure but it's not like me to not check the A/C so it had to have been one of those.

11) Everything under the good was wrapped w/cheap heat wrap and wire was wrapped around exhaust parts and intake hoses randomly to hold it on which wasn't doing the job well because it was hanging off in places (see #6)

I saw extensive pics under the hood, wasn't very pretty but nothing broken and no leaks from what I saw. The wrap needed dressed up, but aside from that and perhaps the lack of a BOV and controller nothing stood out as wrong.

No wastegate (welded flapper) doesn't strike you as wrong? Do you know anything about turbo charged engines and turbo theory?

Eleventy-Three) Had to pump to start (Probably fouled plugs due to extremely rich condition for quite some time as he said it's run that way as long as he owned it and he didn't tune it because it was the 'safe' way to run it (see #6)

definitely agree it needs a tune up, plugs, wires, cap

There's your red flag. He already did those items. So, either he is lying about doing the maintenance (and ignoring a problem which seems to be the track record) or he did them and the problem lies deeper. Either one is not good if you're the buyer.

13) Laptop included is something fresh out of 1989 w/a 5" screen and no working battery that you have to boot in DOS and that is what you use to run the Accel software.

didn't even know he was including one, lol

Might as well not. You couldn't give it away. You also have to use that thing to fix whatever is wrong w/it as far as fuel tuning.


14) Windows are advertised as tinted but only the rear hatch was tinted (aside from the rear sides polarized from factory) was done with cheap film that is turning purple and needs to be replaced (costs more to do than untinted windows as most window tinters HATE removing tint and charge handsomely for it).

irrelevant to me, I have incredible tint guy

Yeah, me too. One of the best in the state of Colorado. We've been friends for over ten years.. Good enough to know how much of a PITA it is to pull tint especially on a rear defrost window. He'll care.

15) Paint is NOT original (at least not all panels) and it's rougher than he says.

how noticeable? it looks good in the pics, but that can be deceiving. Where are teh rough spots specifically?

White will almost always photograph nicely. It tends to 'wash out' and look bright and uniform regardless of the imperfections that exist.

16) Wastegate on 20g welded at 17psi and when I questioned about it, he had no idea what I was talking about (see #6)

it def could use a boost controller, but what do you mean "welded", isn't the wastegate adjustable manually?

There is NO wastegate arm. It was cut and the adjuster for the wastegate was welded in place. He lists an external wastegate, but I didn't see one. Could be that I was already decided and not looking hard enough but I doubt it.

17) No floor mats

NBD

Eighteen) This truck will NOT run a 12.60... no way... no how.

does it FEEL slow?

Compared to the other Typhoons it not only feels slow, it feels broken (to put it simply)

19) He says that it runs 12.60 and in the very next sentence says that the fast Typhoons need a lot of work... what is he subliminally trying to warn you of about this Ty?

looking at the pics under the hood its screaming for a tune-up, but with what's already been done to it you can't complain I would imagine

what do you think has been done to it?

Ninja Explosion) The 'new copper head gaskets' were copper exhaust gaskets. Condition of actual head gaskets unknown.

he said it didn't leak, engine looks grimy but no apparent leaks

Again, another blatent example of his knowledge of cars. I think most other people will tell you this is far more important that you seem to think and probably a deal breaker for most.

21) Didn't know what a boost launch was (see #6)

hey, that is a good thing

Again, see my post above about knowledge about these vehicles.

22) He was a nice enough guy, but I would steer clear of this particular Ty for anything more than $8k.
Click to expand...


I am in the middle of purchasing this Ty and will be driving to get it within a week. If anyone can give me some advice I would appreciate it greatly. From what I have heard so far it doesn't seem so bad, can anyone address those concerns?
Click to expand...

If what I've already told you wasn't enough to open your eyes... I wish you the best of luck. I understand vehicles and turbo charged engines and can do the work. I refuse to pay the price for a perfect Typhoon that is anything but. If I buy it, it'll be substantially less than his asking price. I walked away from it at $10,300 after looking at it in person. I doubt I would buy it for $8k after seeing/driving it. That's me I guess. With the market the way it is on these things right now, you can get very nice trucks for what he is asking.

Honestly, if you are looking for a white/white Typhoon in Colorado for a good price and want a great truck, the other one that was one eBay is your BEST bet. His name is Josh and he lives in Estes Park which is around two hours North/West of Denver. He'll take $9800 for it and it will run circles around the truck Chad is selling in Denver. He knows the trucks VERY well and it's tuned and ready to roll. You won't find too may Typhoons that need nothing, but this is one of them.

Just my thoughts having seen them both in person. I was just like you seeing the photos and reading the details online until I saw it in person for what it was. You will be disappointed.
 
Jer

Jer

Don't taze me bro!
93ty475 said:
i bet i could fix the majority of that in a day + one all nighter...sounds like its got more than a few go fast goodies bolted onto it and relatively low mileage...could be saved for little or nothing...also someone already did the forged pistons and rods...i have no doubt the previous owner ran 12.6 at 103...sounds believable to me considering the upgrades...i wonder who owned it before him? my guess on the defrost straps is that someone replaced the hydraulic prop cylinders with non-defrost ones...the switch "to lock up the transmission" is just a t/c lockup switch...not a mod for conserving fuel...plus, the ecm controls normal lockup anyway...people use a direct switch to pick up a tenth or so in the 1/4 mile...not anything i would catch myself doing as i could care less about a tenth...whoever owned it before him, must have halfway known what was going on...
Click to expand...

No, the straps were cut. As far as the 'forged rods and pistons' I can say I've got a $10k built engine, where's me receipts?? I know what the TC lockup switch is... he doesn't and that was the point. If he's been driving it around with the 'fuel saving switch' turned on, do you think that might lend to the tranny not shifting firm? I would say yes. I'm not doubting your wrenching ability but doubt you or anyone could make this truck right in a day.
 
B

Baja Resident

New member
Maybe I am still trying to "convince myself", but after talking to the seller, he seemed to know how to use the T/C switch responsibly. Even though, I heard the switch would only eliminate slippage making the tranny run even better, how is this going to have any negative effect on it?

Also, you doubt all the work that was done on it because of lack of receipts, but you can visibly see the A2A conversion, 20g turbo, battery relocation, headers, etc.. Who is going to go through all this trouble and lie about the engine work? Maybe he didn't do it, it seems all previous owners work.

The original asking price is high, but I have yet to be convinced there is something wrong with this truck that makes it not worth owning.
 
Jer

Jer

Don't taze me bro!
Baja Resident said:
Maybe I am still trying to "convince myself", but after talking to the seller, he seemed to know how to use the T/C switch responsibly. Even though, I heard the switch would only eliminate slippage making the tranny run even better, how is this going to have any negative effect on it?

Also, you doubt all the work that was done on it because of lack of receipts, but you can visibly see the A2A conversion, 20g turbo, battery relocation, headers, etc.. Who is going to go through all this trouble and lie about the engine work? Maybe he didn't do it, it seems all previous owners work.

The original asking price is high, but I have yet to be convinced there is something wrong with this truck that makes it not worth owning.
Click to expand...

Obviously you want to put on blinders to the facts I've stated and not allow yourself to see the obvious facts so enjoy your Typhoon and I wish you the best of luck with it.
 
P

PPI Typhoon

DIY Madman
I had about 4 Typhoons to jump on in the time I was looking for a replacement Typhoon (from when mine was stolen). I SO wanted to jump on that first one, saying that all the flaws were ok. 14 months of driving a Neon was driving me insane.

I ended up waiting, and got a much better deal overall. Now I have a Typhoon that has 130k miles, but runs very very strong, no smoking, doesn't burn oil, tranny is tight, etc etc.

If you must go with this one..........offer $8500, citing all the problems and the repair costs. If they don't take it.......walk away. There will be other Typhoons out there.
 
Jer

Jer

Don't taze me bro!
PPI Typhoon said:
I had about 4 Typhoons to jump on in the time I was looking for a replacement Typhoon (from when mine was stolen). I SO wanted to jump on that first one, saying that all the flaws were ok. 14 months of driving a Neon was driving me insane.

I ended up waiting, and got a much better deal overall. Now I have a Typhoon that has 130k miles, but runs very very strong, no smoking, doesn't burn oil, tranny is tight, etc etc.

If you must go with this one..........offer $8500, citing all the problems and the repair costs. If they don't take it.......walk away. There will be other Typhoons out there.
Click to expand...

As I said, I would have to give lots of thought to even giving $8k for this one when I know less than two hours away is pretty much the same truck owned by a SyTy enthusiast and the truck needs NOTHING.
 
Jimmy

Jimmy

Banned
Baja Resident said:
Probably asking a lot, but is there anyone else who wants to (or can) test drive this truck to give a second opinion?
Click to expand...
LOL I think Jer's opinion is good enough! I personally wouldn't touch that truck,because it might need an engine and a transmission,which is a tremendous risk for you to be taking.
 
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