Voltage Fix !

JoeLutz

New member
I may have have the low ecm voltage problems solved :smile: Its NOT the alternator. My ecm volts on datamaster were like 12-13v so today I spent most of the day checking for voltage drops, multimeter and wiring diagrams in hand. After tracing wiring diagrams and checking voltages, here is what I found. Our ECM has Two batt power wires that stay energized all the time. On theECM connections, B1 and C16, both are orange. There is also one power wire that is energized with the ignition, A6, pink/blk.

To make a very long story a little shorter. I was only getting arround 12.5-13 volts at B1 and C16 and arround 13.2 at A6 with all the lights on. Judging by the guage of the wires and the setup, I believe the ECM pulls most of its current from the B1 and C16 that have power all the time and the A6 is mainly just to power on the ECM. As it turns out, both the B1 and C16 wires are fed from the ECM B fuse in the fusebox. Checked voltage there...13.2v. Random voltages in the fuse box ranged widely from about 12.5 to 14.0v.

So here's what I did.
1) Get a 14guage fusible link from NAPA with a round metal connector on the end, about 4 ft of 14-12 guage wire, some female spade connectors, and this metal connector that is made to slide in with a GM plastic fuse to tap in a wire to that fuse. Get the larger size.

2) Solder the open end of the fusable link to one end of the wire and insulate with heat shrink.

3) Disconnect the batt cable and hook up the fusible link to the alternator power connection.

4) Run the wire through a grommet in the firewall and over to the ECM B fuse. Cut off the excess, but leave some slack.

5) Strip wire and put on the spade connector. The Female spade connector will then connect to the fuse tap connector thing.

6) Pull the ECM B fuse and hook on the tap connector. ON THE RIGHT SIDE FACING. I considered it very important to put it on the right side of the fuse, because this is the source voltage side of the fuse and the circuit still needs to be fused for saftey.

After I did all this, My voltages at B1 and C16 with all the lights on and idling were at 14.05v. This is over 1 volt greater than it was before! The voltage gains on A6 were not as high, since it works through the ignition switch, but it was still good at 13.6v with all the lights on. Voltage on the ALDL connector was at 13.5-13.6volts. Datamster confirmed this with 13.5-13.6v with all the lights on, idling.
I feel like the voltage at B1 and C16 are the most important and are not shown on datamaster, though I could be wrong. Anyway I hope this may help some of you with low ecm voltage problems. Before you blame the alternator, take some voltage readings.
 

Daron

Active member
Interesting fix, glad it worked for you. BTW, I found in the past that just by switching ECM's the reported voltages would change. On one ECM I would hardly get high 12's, sometimes low 13's. I knew it wasnt an alternator issue since I monitored the battery during WOT and what not, 14.1's mostly there.
I was messing around, had a spare ECM that I had recently purchased from a local yard and swapped them. Since our yard has a 30 day gaurantee I swapped out 3 ecms, and they all reported different readings. Needless to say the one that reports 14.0 volts via diacom stayed in the truck.
Take care,
 

Daron

Active member
BTW Joe, good work on fixing your voltage issue. There seems like an easy way to "test" to see if your fix will solve the probs some are seeing. Would you suggest temporarily running a wire from the alternator, thru a fuse, to the ecm side of the ECM B fuse holder? If it fixes their probs on diacom/datamaster, then they could go ahead with your suggested repair? What do you think?
Take care,
Daron
 

JoeLutz

New member
Daron that sounds like a good idea, except I would prbably just be VERY careful and use an unfused wire just to test. (Unhook the battery before working on the alternator)
I first tried using a heavy guage wire with an inline fuse like for an amp and got .35v drop across the fuse connector. Since we are starting with only a 14.__ volt source to begin with, voltage must be conserved wherever possible. Thats why I went with a fusible link and soldered the connection to the wire.

That is interesting about the different ECMs showing different voltages. I would suggest to anyone troubleshooting a low voltage that they use a vopltmeter and manually check the voltage on the B1 and C16 terminal at the ECM with everything hooked up and running. Reason being, these wires are on a different circuit than the A6 ignition wire and can have very different voltages than the A6 ignition voltage. I believe that Datamaster only shows the A6 ignition voltage. It seems that the fuse box has a lot of internal resistance probably a lot due to age. If I could get the dang thing loose from the firewall, I could check the connections on the back side of the box. Another place that could be causing a lot of voltage drop is the big firewall connector where the engine harness bolts to the inside harness.

Sorry to keep rambling :

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: joeelutz on 2001-12-13 22:25 ]</font>
 

Daron

Active member
Sorry to keep rambling :

Jeeezzz no need to be sorry. Your type of rambling is much appreaciated actually. I am very encouraged by the quality of the posts on the board lately, yours are notably interesting. Your comments on the fuse vs fusable link is something I wouldnt have guessed. I wonder if I could convince you to cut and paste your comments to an email and have Ian put it up on http://www.sytyarchives.com?
Here is the link:
http://www.sytyarchives.com/contact/

I'd like to have that info saved in a place where we can refer others, later.
Take care,
Daron
 

JoeLutz

New member
Daron,
Thats no problem, I'll send you an email.

Today I was able to do some more testing, and the Datamster results aren't as good as I had hoped for. At WOT the ignition volts are staying arround 13 and sometimes dipping as low as 12.8v which is still a big improvement over the 12.5 I was getting before. However as I mentioned before, Datamaster (my theory) reads only the A6 ignition volts and has nothing to do with the B1 and C16 Batt supply voltage. So that would make since that A6 ignition voltage would be less influenced by the booster wire to the ECM B fuse since it is on a different circuit. The only improvement here sould be from backfeeding through the fusebox supply from ECM B to the ignition.

I also have used Andy Whittakers 'FREE SCAN' http://www.andywhittaker.com/ecu/ecu_software.htm
which appears to monitor the actual battery voltage. the results from it are VERY good. According to the FREE SCAN, I am now maintaining 13.8-14.0v BATT at the ECM whereas before I was only getting 12.5-13.0v Batt. I believe this is a good indication of the increased voltage to terminals B1 and C16.

Right now I got to deal with this dang KR. I've worked my way up to 55psi base FP with the Ultimate 3bar and still getting like 10 degrees and only arround 14 psi boost. So I put the stock map sensor and chip back in today and with 45 psi base FP I'm only getting a max of 1.4 degrees KR and much beter boost. Gonna post on that and see advice I can get.

Thanks for your input Daron.
Joe
 

JoeLutz

New member
Daron I tried submitting it to Ian, but it doesn't appear to be working??? Mabey you can just copy and paste the post and email it to him.
 

Daron

Active member
On 2001-12-15 20:50, ROSEDOGGYDOG wrote:
I assume I can do the same to my GT, (replace the ecm). I'm having the same issue's w/vlt drop on my inst. panel.

Dropping Instrument panel volts can be anything from the alternator to the gauge.
I'd start out monitoring the battery while driving, with a quality voltmeter then compare the intrument panel gauge to the good voltmeter/multi-meter.
If your multimeter shows the alternator is operating within specs (lights on, max load) then seeing if a scan shows a lower voltage than actual is in order. If so, then attacking it with the suggestions above may fix your prob.
 

mrweelr

New member
I just installed a Powermaster 140 amp alternator, new OEM coil, Optima Red Top battery, and I'm still dropping as low as 12.9v at WOT but it used to drop to 12.6 before the Powermaster. Now the average at WOT is about 13.1v with occasional spikes up to 13.4v and even 13.6v. The truck is running stronger than ever before with all of the new ignition stuff and knock retard averages between 1 and 2 degrees with spikes up to 5. I've done all I can to get rid of these knocks so I'm definitely going to get an SMC or Aquamist water/alky injection kit soon. Hopefully, that will get rid of the knock completely. BTW, I'm using Datamaster to obtain these readings.
 

Sy229

Move with Purpose
joeelutz wrote:
I also have used Andy Whittakers 'FREE SCAN' http://www.andywhittaker.com/ecu/ecu_software.htm
which appears to monitor the actual battery voltage. the results from it are VERY good. According to the FREE SCAN, I am now maintaining 13.8-14.0v BATT at the ECM whereas before I was only getting 12.5-13.0v Batt. I believe this is a good indication of the increased voltage to terminals B1 and C16.

I downloaded the FreeScan software and wrote to Andy with this specific problem and a link to this thread. His response:

"FreeScan reads the voltage as sent by the ECU. I've read the thread that you
sent me and I can only deduce that DataMaster uses a different scaling
factor or something else to read the voltage but I don't know what." Andy.

From his response, I'm still not quite sure if his software reads from the same source as DataMaster, but seems to be the implication. I'm going to try to capture some readings with FreeScan and compare w/ previous DataMaster runs.
 

Typhoon #1133

New member
i am also having voltage problems. before i change my alternator i was getting around 12 volts at idle and 12.7 at wot. i bought a 105 amp alternator from autozone and now at idle i am getting 13.5 and still only 12.8 at wot. is the 105 amp alternator to small? should i bring it back and find one somewhere else?
 
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