This is exactly it, a tire or balance issue should shake all the time, not just at one small speed range. Exactly why I suggested throwing the stockers back on to see if anything changes. If it doesn't, then you know it's due to the lowering.
Back to the thread. The OP's vibration began when he changed wheel/tires AND installed lowering blocks that probably changed the rear driveshaft u-joint angles.
The vibration is in a very narrow speed range. A wheel rotates about 685 revs per mile. At 60 MPH that's 11.4 times per second. 11hz. That is a very low frequency.
The driveshaft rotates 3.42 times faster (the axle ratio.). That's 38hz. However, the u-joints 'bind' 4X per rev, so a driveline vibration caused by u-joint procession will be 150hz. So much higher than tire imbalance.
With a little thought and attention to the problem, you should be able to "feel" whether it's 11 or 150 hz, or both, and therefor where to focus your attention to solving the problem. But the very narrow range (55-62 MPH) is typical of driveline imbalance or u-joint angle procession. Tire imbalance tends to increase in severity, the faster the vehichle speed. It's driveline u-joint angles, IMO.
We have a business called "Driveline Specialists" up here, all they do is driveline stuff. If I brought it up there, would they be able to tell me what's up? IE, is it something that a professional should be able to spot right away? I don't have a pinion angle tool or anything.
Honestly, you really should check pinion angle. Just because you put the wedges back in doesn't automatically mean that the driveline angles stayed the same.
You can't look at it and tell, unless it's really obviously out of whack.
Back to the thread. The OP's vibration began when he changed wheel/tires AND installed lowering blocks that probably changed the rear driveshaft u-joint angles.
The vibration is in a very narrow speed range. A wheel rotates about 685 revs per mile. At 60 MPH that's 11.4 times per second. 11hz. That is a very low frequency.
The driveshaft rotates 3.42 times faster (the axle ratio.). That's 38hz. However, the u-joints 'bind' 4X per rev, so a driveline vibration caused by u-joint procession will be 150hz. So much higher than tire imbalance.
With a little thought and attention to the problem, you should be able to "feel" whether it's 11 or 150 hz, or both, and therefor where to focus your attention to solving the problem. But the very narrow range (55-62 MPH) is typical of driveline imbalance or u-joint angle procession. Tire imbalance tends to increase in severity, the faster the vehichle speed. It's driveline u-joint angles, IMO.
But the OP also said the tire shop claims flat spotted tires...
I don't think that's the case. TWO tire shops told me they were flat spotted, in fact one said they moved one of the tires from the front to the rear to make it go down the road better. Although I admit, I told the second shop that the first shop told me they were flat spotted, so I may have colored their thinking.
I think the best and cheapest route so far is to get the driveline checked first. The kit you put in, what did it consist of?
u-joints are cheap
I went with the following:
1" Lowering Blocks - http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-Lowering-Blocks.html
Axle Setback Plates to keep the wheel centered - http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-301.html
And I also kept the stock pinion wedges. I believe it gave me a total of around 1.375" of lowering.
Were the blocks tapered?
Talk about lots of different recommendations. It is of your opinion that my u-joints may be bad?
The blocks were not tapered.
That might be the problem, there should be a taper to them to change the angle just a bit.
And follow the advice above too, that is an excellent point, especially if the truck is new to you, you never know when they were changed last, and they are cheap, easy to do, and give you peace of mind.