turbodig
Active member
My guide plate problems got me thinking about valvetrain geometry on hydraulic lifters...
The "Normal" method of checking geometry is with a solid lifter, and watching tip alignment.
I checked mine on assembly, and while it wasn't perfect, it wasn't far enough off to warrant different length pushrods.
I got to thinking, recently, that the above method of checking assumes that the lifter will be at full pump (ie, the plunger at max height) during normal operation. While it's possible that this might be the case at upper rpm pressure, it might not at lower pressures.
Seems to me, that this would negate any attempts at proper geometry at lower RPMs. A .020 longer/shorter pushrod could be negated by a touch extra preload. It would also indicate that the least amount of preload you could tolerate would be the best. (Assuming your geometry was checked at full pump)
You'd never really get accurate geometry, though, except at high RPM. I suppose high RPM is where you'd want it to be the best, but in the reality of day-to-day use, you operate in the 1500-2000 RPM area. This would mean less-than-optimal guide wear.
A roller tip really becomes a big deal in this, as the effects of bad alignment will be a lot less.
Once I fix my guideplates, I'm gonna play with different preload to see just how much it effects geometry and tip contact.
The "Normal" method of checking geometry is with a solid lifter, and watching tip alignment.
I checked mine on assembly, and while it wasn't perfect, it wasn't far enough off to warrant different length pushrods.
I got to thinking, recently, that the above method of checking assumes that the lifter will be at full pump (ie, the plunger at max height) during normal operation. While it's possible that this might be the case at upper rpm pressure, it might not at lower pressures.
Seems to me, that this would negate any attempts at proper geometry at lower RPMs. A .020 longer/shorter pushrod could be negated by a touch extra preload. It would also indicate that the least amount of preload you could tolerate would be the best. (Assuming your geometry was checked at full pump)
You'd never really get accurate geometry, though, except at high RPM. I suppose high RPM is where you'd want it to be the best, but in the reality of day-to-day use, you operate in the 1500-2000 RPM area. This would mean less-than-optimal guide wear.
A roller tip really becomes a big deal in this, as the effects of bad alignment will be a lot less.
Once I fix my guideplates, I'm gonna play with different preload to see just how much it effects geometry and tip contact.