Vacuum Lines

[nborton]

I first had this problem in 03' and since it has been off and on I have tolerated it, seeing as I usually drive in stop and go .

Basically I think I need to replace all my vacuum lines, and don't have a clue where to begin. I know I need two different sizes of silicon tubing, but where do I get the elbows/tees/check valves etc? If anyone can help it will be appreciated and maybe my memorial day project.

My turbo builds 5lbs of boost, sometimes it will go up to 15. I removed the vaccum line on the right, looking at the windshield, of the wastegate solenoid, and can build boost to 15 to my hearts content. there are two vacuum lines going to the wastegate solenoid, 1 goes on the left to the turbo, 1 goes on the right from ???, and there is another hole below it with nothing, is this how it should be?

thanks again.

 

[TYRODD]

Okay, you need ten feet of 5/32 and 7/32 vaccum line, preferably silicone hose as it lasts longer and takes heat better.

You should be able to get the "Ts" and vacuum lines from any chain auto parts store. Dont reuse any elbows as the almost always leak a little, route the new hose so that it can curve to make the needed bends.

As far as the vac. ports on the turbo vac. harness:

The port on the left side of the selonoid goes to the turbo housing, the one on the top-right side of the sel. goes to the wastgate actuator, and the bottom right port is actually a vent-dont put a hose on it.

I would start/replace one Vac. harness at a time, they can be confusing sometimes.

 

[champ7fl]

just to double check, since I'm planning the same upgrade... that's 10 feet of 5/32 and 10 feet of 7/32? Is it noticeable or obvious where the hose need to be the 5/32 or 7/32? Or am I going to have to stare at the hose and measure it to see which size of the new silicone I use to replace it? What about the check valves, there's 2 right? Where can I get those, are they universal or what? Aslo, about how many tees will be needed? Sorry for all the questions, I just know that if there's a chance I can get the wrong part...I will. It's happened way to often, even if I request a specific part number, something gets screwed up. Thanks for the help

 

[TYRODD]

Try dees won:
http://www.syty.huryde.com/html/engine/vacuum.htm

... that's 10 feet of 5/32 and 10 feet of 7/32? Is it noticeable or obvious where the hose need to be the 5/32 or 7/32?

Yessir!

Remove your stock C. valves and compare them to others at an auto parts store, I actually think there are three valves: two-3 port, and one-2 port. Also there are two "Ts"

Also be sure to use zip-ties on all connections to get 'em super tight.

Try entering "vacuum diagram" in the search feature, there are tons of threads on this. subject

Oh yeah, prepare to get filthy replacing those lines!

 

[MotorMouth]

Yes, PLEASE USE ZIP TIES!!!

Seems like a minor thing but not using zip ties is one of the reasons I am in the middle of an engine build.

 

[Lynn D. Brown]

Vac Hose kit

Vac Hose kit

Somebody on the list was selling a kit for our whole vacuum system w colored Silicone hoses a few years ago. I think it was very reasonable - $20.-30 - and I bought the kit w red hoses. It had good instructions, a diagram and I installed this kit. It was real well put together - maybe someone can remember who that was ? Maybe U could check the "For Sale" Forum.

 

[champ7fl]

Thanks for the diagram. I've seen it before, but now that I'm serious about changing the hoses, I couldn't find it. I remember it didn't say what check valves to use, or the size. Thanks for the info. As for the kits, I found an old post for them, and it seemed to me that sytyarchives was selling them. I sent him a pm and got no response. I figured he's just real busy, or he's not making them at the moment.

 

[Slow-Clone]

I heard that "vacuum tank" is there just so you can use the brakes once or twice with the truck off, right? Im looking to clean up my engine compartment and thinking of scrapping it..

Bad idea?

 

[TYRODD]

Scrap it, its a waste of space. Really it just saves vac. for the heater/AC controls while under boost, but I have never needed to change those when trying to haul a little.

 

[turbodog]

Re: Vacuum Lines

My turbo builds 5lbs of boost, sometimes it will go up to 15. I removed the vaccum line on the right, looking at the windshield, of the wastegate solenoid, and can build boost to 15 to my hearts content.

So, with wastegate solenoid connected, lazy/poor boost control. With it disconnected, boost out the ying-yang. Sounds like a bad wastegate solenoid. Mine got gummed up with oil, and behaved as you describe. I replaced it and now have rock-steady boost control.

Vacuum ball:
"Scrap it, its a waste of space. Really it just saves vac. for the heater/AC controls while under boost, but I have never needed to change those when trying to haul a little."

You will also find the A/C output goes to the floor vents whenever you're in the boost if you remove the vacuum ball.

 

[93ty475]

Re: Vacuum Lines

You will also find the A/C output goes to the floor vents whenever you're in the boost if you remove the vacuum ball.

thanks for that info as i had planned on removing it until i read this...

 

[turbodog]

You're welcome. I should have added:
the cruise control won't work properly with the vacuum ball removed, and the EGR (if you still have it) MAY not work correctly (it may not ever enable when in boost, so may not matter).

 

[TYRODD]

Hmmmm, now that you mention it, my CC act a little flaky, maybe Ill relocate my VRB.

 

[Slow-Clone]

http://www.syty.huryde.com/html/engine/vacuum.htm

I've scrapped the vacuum canister, and putting all new vac lines in right now.

Is the check valve going to the hvac in that diagram backwards? looks like the controls will see boost the way it's in..

Is the check valve even necessary if I dont care about it blowing on my feet under boost... or will it hurt the controls.

 

[TYRODD]

the check valve for the hvac is hooked up like this: the single port is connected to the vac. source, and the CC and hvac are on the other side, if you can make sense of that.

As far as the vents blowing your feet only-If Im under boost, Id rather not have the AC on at all, Id rather haul ass! I honestly dont know if it would hurt anything either.

 

[sy112]

Ian is the one who made the kits, well worth the money but I think he gave it up, to many sore finger tips if I remeber for not much money. I think I have the diagram for the install around here somewhere. I don't have a scanner but a decent digital camera, I can take a pic and try to up load it if someone thinks they need it.

 

[Slow-Clone]

The way the valve is drawn in it will open under boost, and be closed under vacuum. I thought we wanted the opposite. Or am I reading this wrong.

 

[TYRODD]

Just try it out, If youre controls dont work, switch the CV around.

 

[nborton]

The problem's fixed. It was a combination of a torn vaccum elbow and a broken solenoid for the turbo. I ordered one from GM and some silicon tubing. Thanks to everyone for guiding me to the right silicon hoses and advice.