Re: Typhoon Initiation
Welcome to my world!
I am at the end of the leaking gasket/Typhoon POS odyssey and will tell you what I know.
The Typhoons originally did not come with gaskets. They were precisely machined so that they were tolerance fits. Unfortunately, this means that when you take them off, if there has been any warping or they are not exactly put back together then you will get a leak.
Did you remove it or did someone else?
As far as getting the thing off goes: you don't need to remove the turbo, but it does help and you will need to get rid of the upper IC to get access, as well as the wheel well if that has not already gone.
There are 4 lines attached to the (Stock?) turbo - coolant feeed/return and oil feed/return. The oil return(T fitting under the turbo) and coolant feed (banjo fitting) are complete BASTARDS and I suggest you buy some braided hoses to replace them (TurboTime/RPM) for the following reasons:
1) They will fit on a lot more easily
2) If you have successive problems with the turbo/exhaust manifolds then you can easily remove/ reattach the lines.
3) They look better.
As far as the manifold goes, you will need to remove the down pipe. Remove the O2 sensor (22mm spanner if stock) and detach the cat if you have one. A rubber hammer comes in handy at this point.
The down pipe is held on to the turbo by 3 studs - be prepared for them to break, so WD40 them up a while in advance if you can.
Here lies the second problem - the exhaust manifold to the turbo is also a tolerance fit and you may find that there is a leak after with this. I'll cover that in a second...
Once you have detached the down pipe, you are free to thread it out under the car towards the rear. It is a fiddle but it does go eventually.
The crossover pipe does not have any special seals but is very tricky to get off. A bit of patience and some UJs and socket extensions will help. 12 mm / 1/2"sounds familiar in there....
With the IC out the way, turbo lines removed and the downpipe off, you are in a position to now remove the manifold.
It is worth draining the radiator and removing the hose at the bottom pass side of the radiator for access to the crossover if you have the A/C in still. There will also be less leakage from the turbo coolant hoses. I haven't done that so let me know how that works if you try it.
Have you got the stock A/C setup? You can get the manifold/turbo assemby out in one piece with the A/C in but again it is a PITA, but can be done. Advantages to this are not breaking the turbo/header seal, otherwise you risk breaking nuts and cracking the seal and will require another gasket.
There are 6 bolts holding the manifold on. Make sure you first of all remove the sparkplugs (14mm - be gentle, I cracked two last time) and the IC support brackets.
Then it is time for the 6 bolts. Nothing too difficult here. I am afraid I don't know the sizes of them so maybe someone else can chime in.
Once out, the manifold will be ready to remove along with the turbo assembly. Take it out and look at the exhaust ports and your manifold. You will probably find that there is soot where the leaks were.
You'll need to do one of two things: accept that you need the faces machined and send the manifold off, or do it yourself.
Personally I just used a plane sander with a relatively fine grade of paper for smoothing out the blemishes.
You'll need to do the ports by hand though. They require less work.
Right, the bits you need:
SCE-4117 from Summit - no guarantee here as I am trying this as my last resort. Mr Gasket/Silicone sealant didn't do it for me (Mr Gasket didn't work and I don't like the idea of gluing the engine together - Red RTV Silicone might be what you are after though - horses for courses)
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SCE-4117&N=700+0&autoview=sku
MRG-7176C Copper collector gaskets (2.5" stock exhaust system) for the turbo/downpipe. I made some myself
using autocad but these ones
MRG-7176C have a crushable seal which is ideal for what you and I need.
T3 gasket if you break the header/turbo seal.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TNT-30263&N=700+0&autoview=sku
It would also be advisable to sand/smooth/file the turbo-dp faces. Be very careful as you do not want to make them angled or your problems will never go away.
When you try and re-fit the heder, they are reknowned for being tight. Have a dremel tool on hand to grind the header bolt holes just in case. Not pretty, but necessary.
After all this, I'd suggest replacing your stock IC lines with some rubber hoses and re-routing them. You'll have more space and there are plenty of articles on here..just search.
Your estimated time of completion? If you are a neophyte I would put a whole sunny day aside and make sure you have a cute girl to give you a hug when you start to wonder why you ever bought the car in the first place
I hope this has been of some use. PM me if you want any more - I'll answer in the thread for anyone else's benefit.
My bits arrive next week (25 Nov 06) and I will post how it all comes togthether.
One more thing - my idle and sound of the engine was amazing until the gasket on the turbo blew. I think this was down to the catalytic converter having failed or being about to and building too much back pressure and blowing out the seal there. Have a look at that as well. I can get rid of mine and will do so next week.
Good luck! Off to play with the ECM...... :tup:
Mark
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