B
Blake
Guest
Ok.
You should be down to the tranny by now.
There is a plug for the TCC. Pop it out like you do any other weather pack connector. Pull out on the tabs while pushing up.
There is a rusty 8mm screw just over top of that that holds everything to the side of the tranny. Take it out.
There are 6 bolts in the bellhousing. One of them is out because the transfer case brace went through it on the bottom driver's side.
The Next one that comes out is the TOP one on the passenger side. It is a 14mm and does not have a flange on it since it has the brace for the dipstick tube acting as a washer. Use a shallow 14mm, your wobble extensions and several extensions until you can get square on the bolt head. You do NOT want to strip these off. I used a halogen lamp placed facing up at an angle on the passenger side so this area would be illuminated. I was on my right side, legs sticking out the driver's side so I could see it. Get it out. Goes back in easier than you would think. It is a bear to get out. GM used a white lock tight like stuff on it. You HAVE to take this one out first or your socket won't fit squarely on the top nut I'll talk about next. The vent tube for the transfer case is held up there also. Pull it out and lay it aside. When you put the vent tube back on, do like the factory did with everything else and run it zip tied to the fuel lines and run it up the driver's side. Don't know why they didn't do this the first time. It makes R&R so much easier. After you get the bolt out, get up on a small step stool and use a pair of needle nose pliers and grab ahold of the dipstick tube and pull up, and slightly forward. It will be tough but will pop out of the tranny. The seal will come with it. That's OK. You'll have to replace it anyway. Turn it so it just clears some of the wiring and let it hang in there. You don't have to pull it all the way out.
I now went to the two lower nuts you can get your hand on on the passenger side where the downpipe bracket is. Use PB Blast again on the 15mm bolt that holds the bracket to the downpipe. Use a shallow socket and wobble extensions arranged again.
Now the 14mm nuts that are over the bracket. The bottom one is cake. Shallow 14mm with wobble extensions. The top one had me scratching my head. There is a pinch weld on the body that would not let a deep well 14mm on it. The stud stuck out too far for a shallow socket. I had an extra 14mm deep. I took a dremel and cut 1/2" off of it. Cleared the pinch weld and seated squarely on the nut despite the stud. Take it off.
Now the damn bracket for the downpipe. Get your hand up in there(it will fit)and work the bracket until only a couple of threads hold it on there. It will not just come off. Once you get it there, Take a long, sturdy flat head screwdriver, get under the bottom hole on the brace and pop it off the stud. It won't hurt the threads of the stud. The threads are a stronger steel than the brace. It may band a little, that's OK. A regular deep well 14mm socket will get both studs out now.
The top one on the driver's side is next. Work your wobbles and move your light so you can see it. Use a shallow 14mm on it. It is a little tougher because of the fuel lines but get square on it and take it out. Have a magnetic extension for grabbing the socket or the bolt in case they fall out up there. They will more than likely.
The last one uses just a closed end 14mm wrench. Once it is loose, you can get your hand up in there and get it out the rest of the way.
Almost there.
If you have never had your tranny out before, it will be bonded to the engine of sorts. Corrosion between the cast iron block and the aluminum bell housing.
I used a very thin flat head screwdriver with a long shaft on it. I stuck it at the joint and tapped on it with a hammer. I worked both sides evenly. Once I got them as far as the thin screwdriver could get them, I used a cold chisel I had that was about 1/2" thick. I placed it at the now open slot and tapped it in until the trans cleared the two alignment dowels on the engine. Thank God GM used these!! Use some scotchbrite and clean the mounting surface up and wipe off with some of the PB Blast or WD-40 to get rid of some of the corrosion.
DON'T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE TV CABLE AT THE THROTTLE BODY!!!!! Now that the trans is separated from the engine, drop it down slightly. Just enough to where you can get the 10mm socket on the small bolt on the passenger side top of the plate the pan bolts to. This is the TV cable housing where it enters the tranny. After the bolt is out, push up and slightly toward the front of the truck at an angle. It is tough but it will slide out. You can push up on the housing and see where the cable slides over the little bracket for the TV line rise valve's spring loaded bracket. Just wiggle it a little and it will slide off.
You can now see the tranny lines. Drop it down just a little more so you get your arms up in there. I can't remember for sure but I think the brass fitting at the tranny is a 5/8". The part that is tough to get loose is the 13mm for the tranny lines. I used line wrenches and PB Blast but it still rounded the corners off of the bottom one. The top one comes out first and was easy on mine. The bottom one I had to use a 6" small pipe wrench I had and careful worked it loose. No real damage. I stopped as soon as I saw the rounding off crap going on and went for the pipe wrench so as not to render the nut unusable.
Pop the line out of the hole in the fitting and the tranny is free. Lower it down. I had to slide mine off of the jack and onto the floor onto some waiting cardboard. It cleared the frame by a 1/2" or so. If yours isn't that high, slide the TC off(lots of fluid in there too, have towels ready)and tip the rear up. This will angle the front down enough to get it out from under there.
Get ready for the rebuild.
Have two 2x4s about a foot long to stand the trans up on. Place these inside the same container that you drained the fluid into before. Hopefully you have emptied it by now so it is completely empty. Lay the 2x4's on the wide flats in there and set the transmission on the tail end. You need this clearance because the output shaft sticks out 3/8" to a 1/2". Let it sit for the rest of the afternoon if you have time. Fluid will run and run and run. Let it bleed. You'll be amazed how much is left in there.
I laid the stock TC snout down in a pan and let it drain. The stock TC holds almost 3 quarts. Unbelievable.
There are books written on the rest. ATSG, Haynes, and Helms are all good cross references.
I tried to include everything. If I left a part out, let me know. I'll write a little thing on putting it back in that will help it go a little quicker also.
Wish someone would have written this crap for me :smile:
George
You should be down to the tranny by now.
There is a plug for the TCC. Pop it out like you do any other weather pack connector. Pull out on the tabs while pushing up.
There is a rusty 8mm screw just over top of that that holds everything to the side of the tranny. Take it out.
There are 6 bolts in the bellhousing. One of them is out because the transfer case brace went through it on the bottom driver's side.
The Next one that comes out is the TOP one on the passenger side. It is a 14mm and does not have a flange on it since it has the brace for the dipstick tube acting as a washer. Use a shallow 14mm, your wobble extensions and several extensions until you can get square on the bolt head. You do NOT want to strip these off. I used a halogen lamp placed facing up at an angle on the passenger side so this area would be illuminated. I was on my right side, legs sticking out the driver's side so I could see it. Get it out. Goes back in easier than you would think. It is a bear to get out. GM used a white lock tight like stuff on it. You HAVE to take this one out first or your socket won't fit squarely on the top nut I'll talk about next. The vent tube for the transfer case is held up there also. Pull it out and lay it aside. When you put the vent tube back on, do like the factory did with everything else and run it zip tied to the fuel lines and run it up the driver's side. Don't know why they didn't do this the first time. It makes R&R so much easier. After you get the bolt out, get up on a small step stool and use a pair of needle nose pliers and grab ahold of the dipstick tube and pull up, and slightly forward. It will be tough but will pop out of the tranny. The seal will come with it. That's OK. You'll have to replace it anyway. Turn it so it just clears some of the wiring and let it hang in there. You don't have to pull it all the way out.
I now went to the two lower nuts you can get your hand on on the passenger side where the downpipe bracket is. Use PB Blast again on the 15mm bolt that holds the bracket to the downpipe. Use a shallow socket and wobble extensions arranged again.
Now the 14mm nuts that are over the bracket. The bottom one is cake. Shallow 14mm with wobble extensions. The top one had me scratching my head. There is a pinch weld on the body that would not let a deep well 14mm on it. The stud stuck out too far for a shallow socket. I had an extra 14mm deep. I took a dremel and cut 1/2" off of it. Cleared the pinch weld and seated squarely on the nut despite the stud. Take it off.
Now the damn bracket for the downpipe. Get your hand up in there(it will fit)and work the bracket until only a couple of threads hold it on there. It will not just come off. Once you get it there, Take a long, sturdy flat head screwdriver, get under the bottom hole on the brace and pop it off the stud. It won't hurt the threads of the stud. The threads are a stronger steel than the brace. It may band a little, that's OK. A regular deep well 14mm socket will get both studs out now.
The top one on the driver's side is next. Work your wobbles and move your light so you can see it. Use a shallow 14mm on it. It is a little tougher because of the fuel lines but get square on it and take it out. Have a magnetic extension for grabbing the socket or the bolt in case they fall out up there. They will more than likely.
The last one uses just a closed end 14mm wrench. Once it is loose, you can get your hand up in there and get it out the rest of the way.
Almost there.
If you have never had your tranny out before, it will be bonded to the engine of sorts. Corrosion between the cast iron block and the aluminum bell housing.
I used a very thin flat head screwdriver with a long shaft on it. I stuck it at the joint and tapped on it with a hammer. I worked both sides evenly. Once I got them as far as the thin screwdriver could get them, I used a cold chisel I had that was about 1/2" thick. I placed it at the now open slot and tapped it in until the trans cleared the two alignment dowels on the engine. Thank God GM used these!! Use some scotchbrite and clean the mounting surface up and wipe off with some of the PB Blast or WD-40 to get rid of some of the corrosion.
DON'T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE TV CABLE AT THE THROTTLE BODY!!!!! Now that the trans is separated from the engine, drop it down slightly. Just enough to where you can get the 10mm socket on the small bolt on the passenger side top of the plate the pan bolts to. This is the TV cable housing where it enters the tranny. After the bolt is out, push up and slightly toward the front of the truck at an angle. It is tough but it will slide out. You can push up on the housing and see where the cable slides over the little bracket for the TV line rise valve's spring loaded bracket. Just wiggle it a little and it will slide off.
You can now see the tranny lines. Drop it down just a little more so you get your arms up in there. I can't remember for sure but I think the brass fitting at the tranny is a 5/8". The part that is tough to get loose is the 13mm for the tranny lines. I used line wrenches and PB Blast but it still rounded the corners off of the bottom one. The top one comes out first and was easy on mine. The bottom one I had to use a 6" small pipe wrench I had and careful worked it loose. No real damage. I stopped as soon as I saw the rounding off crap going on and went for the pipe wrench so as not to render the nut unusable.
Pop the line out of the hole in the fitting and the tranny is free. Lower it down. I had to slide mine off of the jack and onto the floor onto some waiting cardboard. It cleared the frame by a 1/2" or so. If yours isn't that high, slide the TC off(lots of fluid in there too, have towels ready)and tip the rear up. This will angle the front down enough to get it out from under there.
Get ready for the rebuild.
Have two 2x4s about a foot long to stand the trans up on. Place these inside the same container that you drained the fluid into before. Hopefully you have emptied it by now so it is completely empty. Lay the 2x4's on the wide flats in there and set the transmission on the tail end. You need this clearance because the output shaft sticks out 3/8" to a 1/2". Let it sit for the rest of the afternoon if you have time. Fluid will run and run and run. Let it bleed. You'll be amazed how much is left in there.
I laid the stock TC snout down in a pan and let it drain. The stock TC holds almost 3 quarts. Unbelievable.
There are books written on the rest. ATSG, Haynes, and Helms are all good cross references.
I tried to include everything. If I left a part out, let me know. I'll write a little thing on putting it back in that will help it go a little quicker also.
Wish someone would have written this crap for me :smile:
George
