Transmission issues

[prosty]

Just had the tranny rebuilt. Now when I floor it it drops out of gear. I've changed; converter (Precision Vigilante) and Governor (5500RPM shift) (and added a downshift kit). I've tried adjusting the TV-cable but there is still no change. When I drive normally it works fine.. But if I get closer to WOT it drops out of gear.

Do I have to fear the worst or can this only be an adjustement issue?

 

[Andreas]

It downshift's if you give more than 75% throttle, but you say you have a downshift kit so that shoudn´t be the problem.

 

[Blake]

Why didn't you want it to be able to do a forced downshift? I assume your talking about the the B&M valve that eliminates it. Your gonna lose a lot of "pulling" power when you want to accelerate. I'd change it back to the way it was.
When you say "it drops out of gear" do you mean it feels like it went into neutral? Does it matter what gear you are in?
If you are in 4th and it does it, it's because of excessive band clearance. Since you've eliminated the ability for it to downshift, instead of releasing the 2-4 band and shifting down to third, the band is just slipping.
Why did you go with a 5500rpm governor?
What kind of buildup do you have?
People used to be really bad for raising the governor but the stock cam doesn't make any power past 4600~4800 rpm.

The Vigilant is a really good converter. Long as you got the single disc(multi disc styles create false knock and cause a lot of problems). They sound like a coffee can full of marbles when the clutches aren't engaged.

PS:
Don't play with your TV cable to correct this. You will burn up your transmission. Set it back to the original setting(push the button, shove the plunger in, rotate to WOT and let it ratchet out). Let us know if you need help doing that.

 

[prosty]

I was told this is the way to go. The problem is when I was on WOT before I had the tranny rebuilt. It wanted to do a kickdown when I was on Topgear. As you might realize. That is not a good thing..

I was told this was the way to go. So that's why I did it.

It feels like it goes into neutral or like it shifts down. It revs up alot and it does not sound nice, sounds like you hit the clutch with a manual transmission. As far as I can see it happends in every gear, I havent really tried it that hard. Can not be good for the tranny doing this.

When I do a kickdown it feels like it is slipping like you explain..

5500RPM governor was also what I was told to do. 4200 is not the way to go for me at the moment. I'm not 100% sure that it is an 5500rpm governor. Could be 5000rpm also. I'm not really sure.

I do have the multidisc converter. Same as above. I was told to use this, this is supposed to be the best of the best 8) .

I know how to adjust the TV-Cable. I'm not sure if I need to adjust it down by the tranny. Could the cable itself be working poorly? Is it necessary to replace it? I've followed the instructions to which you describe, I have a Syclone overhaul video and they describe it quite nice how-to adjust the cable. So that should be accurate.

I really appreciate your response, and hopefully you understand my english and my expressions. I have just followed advice from people who have helped me way back with my truck.

Best regards // Markus

Why didn't you want it to be able to do a forced downshift? I assume your talking about the the B&M valve that eliminates it. Your gonna lose a lot of "pulling" power when you want to accelerate. I'd change it back to the way it was.
When you say "it drops out of gear" do you mean it feels like it went into neutral? Does it matter what gear you are in?
If you are in 4th and it does it, it's because of excessive band clearance. Since you've eliminated the ability for it to downshift, instead of releasing the 2-4 band and shifting down to third, the band is just slipping.
Why did you go with a 5500rpm governor?
What kind of buildup do you have?
People used to be really bad for raising the governor but the stock cam doesn't make any power past 4600~4800 rpm.

The Vigilant is a really good converter. Long as you got the single disc(multi disc styles create false knock and cause a lot of problems). They sound like a coffee can full of marbles when the clutches aren't engaged.

PS:
Don't play with your TV cable to correct this. You will burn up your transmission. Set it back to the original setting(push the button, shove the plunger in, rotate to WOT and let it ratchet out). Let us know if you need help doing that.

 

[Blake]

Oh I see.
Your running a 5500 rpm governor because it was the right thing to do?
On an engine that stops making power at 4800rpm?

Our engines have a knock sensor. When things rattle, it triggers the knock sensor and retards boost and timing. A multidisc converter rattles. Sounds like the right thing to do to me.

Not sure where the downshift comes in. You shouldn't be doing it when racing from a stop anyway. When you take off from a stop, you go WOT all the way. There's things that can be done to improve the internals to take the brunt of the torque on downshift besides disabling the driver's ability to make decisions for themselves.

Were these things that were the right thing to do based on the tranny builder's opinion? And now the transmission doesn't function correctly and you want help.
Take it back to the builder so he can fix it.

I'm outta here.
Have a good thanksgiving.

 

[jwaller]

I do have the multidisc converter. Same as above. I was told to use this, this is supposed to be the best of the best 8)

[/quote]

multidisc's are the worste of the worste unless you have a carbed v8 that you dont mind sounding like a baby rattler.

 

[Blake]

Just thought of something. Some builders don't think the 700r4 needs a TV cable to function properly. Yep. There are morons out there pretending to be professionals. At idle speed with the truck in PARK, open the hood. Get out and walk around to the front of the vehicle. Grab the TV cable and pull on it. There MUST be some spring tension felt, there should be a slight change in engine rpm observed(this is the pump pressure going up and creating resistance). DO NOT rotate the throttle lever. JUST grab the TV cable and pull on it. If there is no spring resistance felt and the rpms don't change, guess what? The cable is either broken or was never reinstalled. This condition MUST BE FIXED IMMEDIATELY!!! YOU WILL FRY YOUR TRANSMISSION CLUTCHES BECAUSE NO ADDITIONAL PRESSURE IS BEING EXERTED TO THEM AS ENGINE SPEED AND LOAD ARE INCREASED. EVERY CLUTCH WILL SLIP UNTIL THEY ARE COMPLETELY BURNED AND YOU HAVE A NO FORWARD CONDITION.

Thought I'd add something on the B&M 4-3 downshift prevention valve.
Here's the skinny and you'll see the ass backwards mentality of putting this valve in a syty.
The syty came stock with a WOT upshift sleeve and plunger assembly. So we can kick it down from 4th to 3rd, pull in the torque band, and then get a 3-4 upshift at about 100 mph. Most Camaros, Firebirds, and Impalas(Caprice) was not capable of a 3-4 WOT upshift. So B&M came up with a way to keep it from shifting down to 3rd since those cars wouldn't shift back up. Ours doesn't need it because ours WILL shift back up. We have the special upshift plunger and sleeve in our valvebodies.
There are some reasons for no 3-4:
Burned 2-4 band.
Wrong valvebody.
Worn pump.
Governor sticking.
Worn internals and seals that are leaking off pressure.
GM dealer or the shop you went to replaced your transmission (maybe under warranty) and put the wrong one back in.

Just cause the guy driving the Camaro that you hang out with used this valve, doesn't mean you need to :banghead: Know what I mean?
Here's a little excert from the DIY-EFI mailing list from eons ago:

This same sleeve is available through GM and is originally used on
the B4C police pkg. GM pt # is 8673948. Suggest upgrading the 3-4
clutch pack also as it's weak and may burn after some WOT upshifts.
The sleeve's price is about $15 or so.

The valve kit actually retails for about $18 from GM.

 

[prosty]

I will look into this. Thanks for your input(s). I'll talk to the guy who recommended me all this.

 

[Sy769]

I don't mean to hijack this thread but about the mulit disc conveters
I was considering the mulit disc 9" converter as a lightweight alternative to the 9/11 style that can withstand repeated WOT lockups. So you guys are saying that the mulitdisc conveters will cause enough noise to set off the knock sensor? Can the single disc converter withstand repeated WOT lockups? Also what is the preferred clutch material for WOT lockup in a small body converter?

 

[prosty]

STOP STEALING MY THREAD :agrue:



I heard that the multidisc is great for road use. The truck is not ment for "racing only". I drive it 70 miles / day..

 

[jwaller]

I don't mean to hijack this thread but about the mulit disc conveters
I was considering the mulit disc 9" converter as a lightweight alternative to the 9/11 style that can withstand repeated WOT lockups. So you guys are saying that the mulitdisc conveters will cause enough noise to set off the knock sensor? Can the single disc converter withstand repeated WOT lockups? Also what is the preferred clutch material for WOT lockup in a small body converter?

stay away from multidisc converters. they sounds horrible and ar not any better be the clutches are so small. it was so bad in a sy I worked on he had full 18deg retard at idle