The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
- Thread starter spooldup
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jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
My engine bay was cleared and I haven't had any problems yet. You going to do it body color in the bay or black?spooldup said:
myclone
Donating Member
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
Depends on how much work you wanna do.../\
You dont mind work? Good...then blow the truck apart as much as possible. The further apart you get it the better. Have the windshield and rear side glass removed (most any auto glass co can do it for you), pull all the sheet metal off, front clip, etc. Basically take the body shop the body shell, hood, front fenders, doors, and tail gate. Leave the suspension if you dont want to make a dolley so its mobile.
Want to do mimimal work? That'll suck if your anal since you prolly wont be happy with the end result but at least pull the interior out, yank the door handles/locks, any moulding around the windows thats removable, door/tail gate weather stripping, antenna (and its base), wipers, cowl panel, mirrors, all the external lights, and cladding. Basically remove anything that is easily unbolted or unclipped and anything you dont want over spray/finger prints/etc on.
If your cladding has never been painted and only slathered with the liquid wipe on treatments then let the body shop know. That stuff contains tons of silicone and the body shop will quickly hate your truck if they just do one application of wax and grease remover. You'll become intimately familiar with the term "fish eye" and even more familiar with how much the shop manager hates your truck (and possibly you too before its over). If they know ahead of time then theyll know to wax and grease remover treat it a bunch before any panel is sanded on or any costly paint/clear is sprayed on it.
Under hood heat wont bother the clear any unless youre taking it to macco or some other dirt cheap shop that uses junk materials. SIKKENS, ppg, Dupont, speis hecker, etc are all good stuff and will hold up just fine. The previously mentioned name brands also produce cheaper products which are WAY better than the crap ppl like macco get in 55 gallon drums. :2cents:
spooldup said:
Depends on how much work you wanna do.../\
You dont mind work? Good...then blow the truck apart as much as possible. The further apart you get it the better. Have the windshield and rear side glass removed (most any auto glass co can do it for you), pull all the sheet metal off, front clip, etc. Basically take the body shop the body shell, hood, front fenders, doors, and tail gate. Leave the suspension if you dont want to make a dolley so its mobile.
Want to do mimimal work? That'll suck if your anal since you prolly wont be happy with the end result but at least pull the interior out, yank the door handles/locks, any moulding around the windows thats removable, door/tail gate weather stripping, antenna (and its base), wipers, cowl panel, mirrors, all the external lights, and cladding. Basically remove anything that is easily unbolted or unclipped and anything you dont want over spray/finger prints/etc on.
If your cladding has never been painted and only slathered with the liquid wipe on treatments then let the body shop know. That stuff contains tons of silicone and the body shop will quickly hate your truck if they just do one application of wax and grease remover. You'll become intimately familiar with the term "fish eye" and even more familiar with how much the shop manager hates your truck (and possibly you too before its over). If they know ahead of time then theyll know to wax and grease remover treat it a bunch before any panel is sanded on or any costly paint/clear is sprayed on it.
Under hood heat wont bother the clear any unless youre taking it to macco or some other dirt cheap shop that uses junk materials. SIKKENS, ppg, Dupont, speis hecker, etc are all good stuff and will hold up just fine. The previously mentioned name brands also produce cheaper products which are WAY better than the crap ppl like macco get in 55 gallon drums. :2cents:
spooldup
Super Member
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
The body shop will be doing the removing of any/all panels. It's a top of line shop and i know it will come out perfect. The cladding has already been painted and looks perfect so i just want the rest of it sprayed. The engine bay will be sprayed blue just like the truck. Should i paint the fenderwells blue as well? I am installing a new fully built motor and trans and want to have this paint job done to finish it off. I am also debating if i should have the roof rack removed? This should be easy enough for the shop to do i would imagine.
The body shop will be doing the removing of any/all panels. It's a top of line shop and i know it will come out perfect. The cladding has already been painted and looks perfect so i just want the rest of it sprayed. The engine bay will be sprayed blue just like the truck. Should i paint the fenderwells blue as well? I am installing a new fully built motor and trans and want to have this paint job done to finish it off. I am also debating if i should have the roof rack removed? This should be easy enough for the shop to do i would imagine.
91blazins10
Active member
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
Yea def get the roof rack removed :2cents:
spooldup said:
Yea def get the roof rack removed :2cents:
myclone
Donating Member
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
If its a top end shop then you shouldnt have to do anything but drop the truck off then write a large check when its done (seriously). Top end shops know exactly what to do.
Just about any shop with employees that arent blind can do the the roof rack removal. A top end shop would consider it a piece of cake.
As for painting the fender wells thats completely up to your personal taste. I was never a fan of painted fender wells on anything but a show car and even then it depends on the car. Thats my opinion though so if painted fender wells make your pants happy then by all means have em painted.
spooldup said:
If its a top end shop then you shouldnt have to do anything but drop the truck off then write a large check when its done (seriously). Top end shops know exactly what to do.
Just about any shop with employees that arent blind can do the the roof rack removal. A top end shop would consider it a piece of cake.
As for painting the fender wells thats completely up to your personal taste. I was never a fan of painted fender wells on anything but a show car and even then it depends on the car. Thats my opinion though so if painted fender wells make your pants happy then by all means have em painted.
SEL777
One of 101
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
Shave the roof rack, delete the door handle eschutions (sp?) if you haven't already. I'd leave the fender wells black. I know there will be a new enging in there but they'll still get dirty with mimimal use. Good luck and port some pics when completed.
Shave the roof rack, delete the door handle eschutions (sp?) if you haven't already. I'd leave the fender wells black. I know there will be a new enging in there but they'll still get dirty with mimimal use. Good luck and port some pics when completed.
QUICK STORM
B.A.M.F. BMW Tech
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
shave roof rack and right front fender antenna. leave fender wells black, have them paint the frame..
shave roof rack and right front fender antenna. leave fender wells black, have them paint the frame..
QUICK STORM
B.A.M.F. BMW Tech
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
or paint the part of the frame you can get to
or paint the part of the frame you can get to
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
If you got it all the way off you should powder coat it :tup:spooldup said:
warmpancakes
New member
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
Yea good idea we all know that works great , if its a good shop and they know what they are doing, you should be fine, are they doing the jambs and all or just a outside respray?
jjorgensen52 said:
Yea good idea we all know that works great , if its a good shop and they know what they are doing, you should be fine, are they doing the jambs and all or just a outside respray?
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
+1 on shaving the roof rack and the antenna... I had this strange idea that I was going to want the roof rack, and then about 15 minutes after I got the truck back painted I was kicking myself for keeping the mounts
hard to tell if you are being sarcastic Ken.... my powdercoat worked pretty darn well :lol:warmpancakes said:
+1 on shaving the roof rack and the antenna... I had this strange idea that I was going to want the roof rack, and then about 15 minutes after I got the truck back painted I was kicking myself for keeping the mounts
myclone
Donating Member
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
Any local body shop supply store should have it. Just walk in and ask for a gallon of "wax and grease remover"...theyll know what youre talking about.
I used 320 grit on my unpainted cladding in preparation for primer then once primed I blocked it with 320, reprimed it again, primed/blocked again, and a final coat of primer then wet sanded it with 600 grit and plenty of water. FWIW/FYI there is a mold parting line around the edges of the cladding where it lays against the body panels that once painted over stick out like a sore thumb IMO if you dont knock them down ("casting flash" is the technical term for it). Just knock the flash off when you sand the pieces the first time in prep for primer and not only will the cladding look better to the detail oriented eye the sharp edge wont eat into the paint nearly as quickly from driving/road vibration.
ShuggsRR said:
Any local body shop supply store should have it. Just walk in and ask for a gallon of "wax and grease remover"...theyll know what youre talking about.
I used 320 grit on my unpainted cladding in preparation for primer then once primed I blocked it with 320, reprimed it again, primed/blocked again, and a final coat of primer then wet sanded it with 600 grit and plenty of water. FWIW/FYI there is a mold parting line around the edges of the cladding where it lays against the body panels that once painted over stick out like a sore thumb IMO if you dont knock them down ("casting flash" is the technical term for it). Just knock the flash off when you sand the pieces the first time in prep for primer and not only will the cladding look better to the detail oriented eye the sharp edge wont eat into the paint nearly as quickly from driving/road vibration.
ShuggsRR
Donating Member
Re: The Typhoon is going in for a complete paint job. Any tips?
Thnaks for the help! A few coats of primer on cladding and sand it down good over and over! lol
Whats the point of sand, primer, sand primer? big thick base makes it harder to chip? or keeps the shine in later down the road?
Thnaks for the help! A few coats of primer on cladding and sand it down good over and over! lol
Whats the point of sand, primer, sand primer? big thick base makes it harder to chip? or keeps the shine in later down the road?