Sy #2811 engine and brakes

[Drew-py]

Hello everyone,
I usually search, find my answers and continue on with out posting questions or comments. I was told I need to start posting my engine and brake upgrades, though both are being done at the same time I will focus on the engine first then on the brakes.

I got her back in 09 in a run down but functioning state until the wrongfully installed 9.5 compression engine had been replaced under warranty and had a "small" knock issue that blow out the ring grooves. Forced to park it and having other projects, I have been getting things as I can and finally I am now putting her back together. The cladding was damaged by road debris then removed and the fastener locations filled in before I bought the truck. I knew what I was looking at and had been seeking one out for many years, thanks to Chug (SYTY member) catching wind of this one and telling me about it I finally gained ownership. The truck is rough but all in all its in decent shape. Interior is very good

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

so here are the parts I have gotten
the following I bought from Race Proven Motors:
Eagle H-beam rods # 12-123-CRS57006, SRP forged aluminum pistons 4.040 over @ 8.5:1 compression, Comp camshaft # COMP 09-422-8

Most of the valve train I purchased straight from comp cams:
valve springs # 986-12, lifters Hyd RLR Full # 850-12, push rods hi-tech # 7940-12, seals w/ teflon # 503-12, steel retainers # 740-12, super valve locks # 611-12

Advance Auto:
crankshaft stock replacement w/ matched bearing set # CR 5950872,

Summit Racing:
Harmonic balancer Streetdamper # FLU-670100
Rockers 1.6 ratio narrow body # SCC-SCP1074BL
valves 2.02 & 1.60

Local junk yard:
block 91 VIN Z from a 2DR Blazer
heads L35 cast # ***181 from a 94 CPI 4DR Blazer

 

[Chug]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Good looking pile of parts but we need to see some of them assembled. Especially seeing as the truck is almost done. More pics Drewpy !!!

 

[Quickstop [UK]]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Looks good - congrats! I love seeing people save these trucks.

What are your plans with the cladding?

Seeing as your heads flow better than stock, you'll need a remap/tune. Have you also got the WB02 and the Moates chip etc or are you planning on getting a tune from someone?

Keep posting pics and good luck!

 

[teamvortec]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

You could just sell it to another nc syty'er good luck with it

 

[e95 Ty]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Looks like your on your way to having a nice build. If I could give you a few suggestions though. That block is not a SyTy specific block so it does not have the nodular main caps on it. If your gonna change them or go to 4 bolt mains then no prob. Do not use the non nodular caps on that build, they will not hold. Also have the crank # checked out by a SyTy engine builder that will know for sure it's ok for your build (should have gotten it from RPM with the rest of your stuff). I would be very concerned about getting a crank for our engines from Advance Auto. Prob be better off cutting one out of wood. Hope this helps you, I'd hate to see you get it all done just to find out it's wrong.

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

All suggestions are welcome, even if its not what I want to hear, pennies now are far better than the migraines and many dollars later. Sadly the engine is now assembled and in truck, my pictures and posts are "just a little bit" behind the work . I didn't find anything that warned me about a stock turbo-Z crank from Advance or any other parts store or the main caps not being strong enough. My estimated HP and TRQ are only in the 450-ish range. I am running studded main caps if that makes a difference (guess I should have searched better or asked the question directly to everyone here) so now I am sweating about the bottom end, kind of out in the wind now with a career change and I am about to move from NC to MO so I cant afford to address this right now. I will just have to operate her only as needed and with out any hard runnings on a lower boost setting until I can afford to fix this, which I will do on the next engine build. I thank you for this knowledge before it became my expensive mistake. At the time I bought the crank I do not recall seeing RPM having the $650 one they now have or I would have gotten it, I remember the $3,500 one and it is way out of the budget for this poor man.

As for the tuning and WBO2, yes, I have a fellow Sy and Ty owner assisting me with who to go to.
Thank you for your information

The cladding, most of it is broken and I am going to place an ad topic here when I generate enough postings for sale of the center parts and replace with a SGT or like style center pieces unless I am offered a good price for the complete set up. However any interest before then please PM me to keep this topic about the build. Doing the best I can on a small military pay check.

 

[nallj92]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

dont worry about the caps/ the studs will help there. also crank should be ok, advance usually just remans GM stuff, as long as the engine build measured and spec'ed everything out, shouldn't be a issue.

 

[e95 Ty]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

You guys can say whatever makes you feel better. The fact is you really don't know what crank is in that engine, which is why I recomended having the #s checked. As for the main caps, good luck with them, I sincerly hope you have no trouble. Sorry if bummed you out, just wanted to try and save you money and grief. Good luck and enjoy it, sounds like a fun ride.

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

nallj92: Thank you for your input its giving me a little comfort about the strength of those parts.

e95: I will be cautious with her and run it mildly until I can correct the deficiency. I have learned to be quick to follow the advice of more knowledgeable people and more importantly practice favoring the safe side.

the entire rotating assembly was professionally balanced by a respectable engine builder he never mentioned a concern about parts integrity, yes he was well aware of what all this is for and the type of truck it is

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Here is the block after machined up, bored out .120 then sleeved with .080 tubes for a 0.040 over final, line honed and indexed. Camshaft installed and painted (VHT SP402 Burnt Copper) high temperature engine

now with the pistons and rods in the holes

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

After a little work the heads and lower intake now look like this. 2.02 intake / 1.60 exhaust, smoothed out lower intake runners and head intake ports. Painted Dupli-color Storm Gray Met(14 WA391E)

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

with the front end off it was time to clean things up before the engine goes back in. Firewall for starters

after cleaning and re-under coating the frame here is whats holding the motor in, the solid mounts from RPM inc.

the new engine now in its home

the torque converter, from Summit, is a Boss Hog part # APE-48742 9/11 with a 2400 stall and a 2800 flash. Sorry no picture of that, some how I failed to take one.

 

[TYTILIDIE]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Interesting color choice.

If you don't mind me asking, why did you choose to sleeve? Could you have sleeved to "0"?

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Scarring to the cylinder wall forced me to bore out .040 over, a fellow Sy owner informed me the block integrity is questionable bored that far out with 14 psi. The engine builder said that putting a sleeve in it will compensate and meet the strength requirements, why .040 and not back to .000 simply displacement, lower power to cubic inch ratio = safer operation. I learned this working with NA motors which until 3 yrs ago, when I bought this truck, was the only motor builds I was doing.

My paint scheme is to be a little different and I am going to tie the brakes, body and GMC grill emblem all together with the engine

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

now with most of it put back together and the bay a spaghetti mess of wires yet to be cleaned up. The stock turbo is just there to fill the hole I have a great friend that researched a good replacement turbo, the Holset HX35, for the 5.9 Cummings diesel. It has the same exhaust housing size of the 16G @ 12cm sq so my lag will not be a horrible increase, with a higher stall (Boss Hog 9/11 2400-2800) and a red line increase to about 6,000 (Comp Cam 422-8 & 1.6 rockers) should make up for any lost time for spooling

this picture is a copy from Chug's, I hang out there often he said I could use it and I find it an excellent comparison shot. Stock on the left HX35 on the right side

Forgot to take pictures of rockers after installed, so had to take covers off to get them, thank the engineers for rubber crush proof re-usable gaskets.
The new 60lbs injectors are installed with the newly match painted stock fuel rail, the fuel pressure regulator is an older aftermarket replacement. In the following top pic you can see the billet distributor sitting in place. Friends with extra goodies lying around are really nice to have

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

with the wire harness laid out in position. I re-loomed and taped up the entire harness like the factory had done. I hooked up the injectors and other sensors. I am still yet to get another A/C compressor to fill that whole

I had the upper intake holes punched out to 58mm to let more air pass though a little easier

now inter-cooler brackets in place waiting on the new throttle body to arrive to put all those parts in their place

 

[Drew-py]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

now with the upper plenum opened up to enable better breathing I got this to allow it in. Summit twin 58mm T-body part # SUM-227706

 

[Gbodydriver]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Lookin good.. Cant wait to see a video of it running.. Good work

 

[Sean Krupa]

Re: Sy #2811 engine and brakes

Sweet build! Nice find on the 58mm TB. Is it a bolt on or do you have to modify the throttle linkage?