Splicing battery cables?

[Blake]

Is there a correct way to splice battery cables? I tried to make a thru panel connector but the threaded piece was not brass. It was some kind of galvanized threaded coupling that I machined to fit inside of a grey PVC through box connector. It looks good but may be building resistance in the circuit. The threads matched the stock bolt on the battery cable. I screwed it into the engine side and the new cable had lead coated(I think)brass eye that I ran a bolt through into the other end of the through connector. The galvanized piece may be corroding. I get a click click now that I relocated the battery that started about 3 weeks after I did the project. I replaced the starter and no dice. Still does it. Didn't have any trouble for almost 2 years and then this. Mainly acts up when heat soaked. Haven't done voltage drop test yet to see if it drops more than a .5 volt.
What do you guys do with the stock battery cables and connections when you relocate the battery?
Am I supposed to cut the stock ends off of each cable end and splice them onto the new cable?
Are there some kind of special connectors I need to buy? Pictures if possible would really help. Thanks so much.
I just want it to be clean and correct.
I will be putting in the Mad Enterprises "start em up solenoid kit" but I don't want it to be a band aid for a poor cable connection.
Thanks!
Blake
Got the damn tranny perfect now this. If I wasn't so happy with my tranny, I'd take the damn thing and burn it!!!!! :evil:

 

[syntax]

when i relocated my battery to my bed i ran 0 guage straight to the starter, from the batrtery, then another seperate 6 guage wire from the bettery to the alternator. I removed the stock positive cable and grounded the stock negative cable to the frame up front, then grounding 0 guage from the battery to the frame in the bed. I had the clicking problem but then replaved the 6 guage alternator wire with 4 gauage and havnt had a problem since. basically, the clicking starter is caused by resistance, not a bad starter

 

[Blake]

Resistance is my problem as well. My stock battery cable is relatively new. I'm going to eliminate the connectors I made(I believe they are corroding from the current passing through them), shorten positive cable and run the negative cable to the frame on the pass side front. Then redo the grounds for the lights to the same spot on the frame. I'm gonna eliminate the purple wire problem by using a solenoid(not a relay) on the firewall and solder on new connectors to hook up to the solenoid on the firewall and then just run a jumper on the battery hookup of the starter over to where the purple wire used to run. I certainly hope this helps. If it still doesn't want to work, I'll do like you did and do away with the stock cable and run larger heat insulated wire straight to the starter and to the alternator. I hate to loose my stock wiring because it is heat insulated straight from the factory.
Thanks so much for responding,
Blake

 

[myclone]

FWIW.

When I splice bat cables I ALWAYS solder em. IMO most kinds of connectors that are either crimped or uses clamping force will corode over time.

Heres what I do and havent had a single bit of trouble so far.

Splicing cables:

Get some correct sized "butt splices" from a electrical supply source such as Granger or the like. Dont bother with the parts store stuff, its not durable enough IMHO. The splices I use dont have any plastic insulation and are pretty heavy copper that is "tinned" and are used for splicing high voltage/high current cables for electrical service into homes/factories/ect.

At first glance you will think you need a HUGE set of crimpers to use em. Dont panic yet as you wont.... What I do is use a cut off disc in a die grinder to cut a slot length wise in the butt splice. You can use a hack saw or something similar. Just takes a little longer with a hack saw.

I then strip the insulation back to on the cable(s) and insert it in the now modified butt connector. I use some channel locks to squeeze the "sliced" connector so it holds the cable nice and tight. This by itself is NOT a very good connection. However, now I fire up the trusty propane torch and solder the connector/cable using rosin core solder (DONT use acid core) to make a connection thats just as strong, if not stronger, than the cable itself with negligable resistance to current flow.

To insulate the connection I get some heat shrink tubing from Granger also. Not the cheap thin stuff you find at Radio Crap. This stuff is prolly .010 thick. It also has a water proof coating on the inside that when you heat the tubing it makes a water tight seal. This prevents the splice from corroding. Its available in red or black but like I said it aint cheap. Its been a while since I bought some but Im thinking like a buck a foot. Worth the money so I dont think twice about it.

I do the same procedure for putting ends on also for the starter/battery/feed throughs. Ive done a BUNCH of em and have never had a minutes trouble.


I have the batt mounted in the bed of myclone and I use #4 stranded cable with no probs. That may be small to some ppl but I have a gear reduction starter and a optima which may help. I did use a bolt on type feed through to get the + cable from the bat through the bed. I got it from either Jegs or Summit (dont recall). These feed throughs are made of copper and I havent noticed any corrosion in the ~year its been in operation.

HTH

 

[Blake]

I did a test run using flux and silver solder. From what I understand, flux is an acid probably not a good thing to use on the finished product. Gotta get it pretty hot for the silver solder to work too. Have to go get a big spool of the rosin core stuff. Thanks, Myclone, guys like you make this the place to hang out.
Blake

 

[myclone]

I did a test run using flux and silver solder. From what I understand, flux is an acid probably not a good thing to use on the finished product. Gotta get it pretty hot for the silver solder to work too. Have to go get a big spool of the rosin core stuff.

Silver solder for auto electrical stuff is WAY over kill and youre correct in that you have to use a BUNCH of heat with it. Just about any high percentage lead flux core solder will work for what youre doing. I used silver solder on copper air conditioning lines for strength as it had to physically hold a tube connection togeather under pressure back in the day when I did AC work. Electrical doesnt need the high strength (unless youre towing using your batt cables ) it just needs moderate strength and the most electrical conductivity which reg lead solder provides.

HTH.

Thanks, Myclone, guys like you make this the place to hang out.
Blake

Thanks.. I wouldnt actually call me a pillar of the community but I try to help when I can.