I say shit-can the whole set. No more leaks!
-P
I hear pro's and con's to this. I live in Washington state with a mild climate so not worried about heat but what other things need to be taken into consideration when converting to a traditional screw on? Is the entire remote system deleted?
Please advise.
Thanks - P
Yep, the entire system is pulled. No more leaky hoses, filter adapters, etc. Also, it frees up some space on the driver side of the engine bay.
How to:
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=90615
Why (or a concise pro-removal argument)
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V6-instructions/4.3-V6-oil-cooler-removal.pdf
Just keep the oil synthetic afterwards to help with temps (or so I've been told).
-P
Just to be 100% becuase now I have read too many posts on this......
Removal of Lines and Adapter: Pretty friggin simple - got it!
Parts Needed: One fitting for block (part number in write up), Synthetic 10 / 30 and a smaller oil filter (part number in write up)....
Is this it? Check valve is already present? (Answered my own question - just need the fitting and a smaller filter)
Thanks - P
I spoke to soon. My cardboard this morning had some soil spots so i jacked it back up to take a look. After further inspection it appears the gasket on my distributor is leaking. Following the path of least resistance carries the leak right past the turbo feed line, right past the spin on filter, straight down to the propshaft. F***!!! :banghead:
I'd bet it's -not- the dist. No oil-pressure there and, presumably, no crankcase pressure. What IS there, right next to the dist, drivers side, is the oil pressure sender and adapter fitting. Check there.