remote transmission filter kits?
- Thread starter flintdawg
- Start date
InvisiBill
Active member
www.summitracing.com
Just look in the catalog under transmission stuff. I'm not using the one I bought due to the fact that I think it would be more trouble to mount than it'd be worth. I couldn't find anywhere up front to put it on my stock Sy...
Just look in the catalog under transmission stuff. I'm not using the one I bought due to the fact that I think it would be more trouble to mount than it'd be worth. I couldn't find anywhere up front to put it on my stock Sy...
sy#2716
SyTy 4 Life
Hey i know this is an old post but i was just wondering if any of yall know the part number for the remote transmission filter that is in summitt? I have the mag right here and just want to make sure it is the one where i can mount my trans temp guage? The part # i have is SUM-G4980 also it is going to be able to handle the the press of our trannys thanks for the help Jonathan sy#2716
Typhoon #1133
New member
sum-g4980
i just got mine a few weeks ago. i did not install it yet
i just got mine a few weeks ago. i did not install it yet
SY2932
Administrator
Yes, SUM-G4980 is the correct part number for the remote transmission filter with temperature sender port for our trucks. On my syclone I relocated my battery with the ATR set up. This made plenty of room to mount the filter as well as my air intake. As a matter of fact, I ended up using one of the bolts that held the battery tray in place to mount the filter housing. I was even able to use one of the mounting holes that held the battery tray in place as well. It was almost like the location was made for the filter, plenty or room to spin it on and off...
The bottom line going into the radiator is the pressure line going into the cooler in the radiator. I cut this line with a mini tubing cutter and flared it with a flaring tool. Using a tubing cutter greatly reduces the chances of introducing metal filings into the line. However, I still used a cotton swab to clean up the cut and used my Mity Vac vacuum tester to pump out a few ounces of ATF to be sure. Flaring is important because if you don't flare the line, there is a good chance i it blow off and result in no ATF/overheated/ruined transmission
.
A hose that comes in the kit is attached to the line and goes to the inlet on the filter. Makes SURE you observe what port is what! I know of at least one owner who got the ports mixed up and overheated his trans. If you flared it properly only one hose clamp will be required. Mine has been on for well over a year and no leaks ever. The outlet on the fiter goes into the radiator where the lower line you just cut went. Due to the angles involved, I used 90 degree close fittings from Mike Lee for the pressure and return lines on my transmission.
Now, on to the B&M 24,000 GVW cooler. You will have to take the grill off to mount this. I guess you could do it with it on but, you can have it off in less than 3-5 minutes. I used the mounting brackets that came with the cooler to mount mine. I double bolted the brackets on all four corners of the cooler with stainless steel hardware and nyloc nuts. As luck would have it, there was some holes already in the sheet metal on the passenger side so, I just used them. The other brackets were wedged inbetween the center support. I mounted the cooler horizontally so the ports for the cooler were on the top. The top line on the radiator is the return line going back to the transmission. Another 90 degree close fitting was used to divert the somewhat cooler ATF from the cooler in the radiator to the B&M cooler. Where the lines come through the sheet metal, rubber grommets were used to protect the line. I also wrapped the lines in plastic tubing for further abrasion protection. I cut and flared the return line also to connect the line going from the cooler back to the transmission. HTH's
Mike Campbell
The bottom line going into the radiator is the pressure line going into the cooler in the radiator. I cut this line with a mini tubing cutter and flared it with a flaring tool. Using a tubing cutter greatly reduces the chances of introducing metal filings into the line. However, I still used a cotton swab to clean up the cut and used my Mity Vac vacuum tester to pump out a few ounces of ATF to be sure. Flaring is important because if you don't flare the line, there is a good chance i it blow off and result in no ATF/overheated/ruined transmission
.A hose that comes in the kit is attached to the line and goes to the inlet on the filter. Makes SURE you observe what port is what! I know of at least one owner who got the ports mixed up and overheated his trans. If you flared it properly only one hose clamp will be required. Mine has been on for well over a year and no leaks ever. The outlet on the fiter goes into the radiator where the lower line you just cut went. Due to the angles involved, I used 90 degree close fittings from Mike Lee for the pressure and return lines on my transmission.
Now, on to the B&M 24,000 GVW cooler. You will have to take the grill off to mount this. I guess you could do it with it on but, you can have it off in less than 3-5 minutes. I used the mounting brackets that came with the cooler to mount mine. I double bolted the brackets on all four corners of the cooler with stainless steel hardware and nyloc nuts. As luck would have it, there was some holes already in the sheet metal on the passenger side so, I just used them. The other brackets were wedged inbetween the center support. I mounted the cooler horizontally so the ports for the cooler were on the top. The top line on the radiator is the return line going back to the transmission. Another 90 degree close fitting was used to divert the somewhat cooler ATF from the cooler in the radiator to the B&M cooler. Where the lines come through the sheet metal, rubber grommets were used to protect the line. I also wrapped the lines in plastic tubing for further abrasion protection. I cut and flared the return line also to connect the line going from the cooler back to the transmission. HTH's
Mike Campbell