rebuilt and now taping

[overboost]

New Guy here, just wanted to say whats up! Got one Q. Did the search thing for 2 weeks and tried all that you have explained but still noise.


SO, I just acquired a 92 ty in Malino, Italy and the guy said that he just
rebuilt the motor and it has 620 miles on it. Well there is now a taping
sound coming from that valve cover on the driver side. It gets louder with
RPMs. I did the spark plug thing and no change in sound. I took off the
valve cover and the rockers were lose. So I set the valves and still the
sound. It runs good and burns no oil but it idles ruff. I got a cap and spark
plugs coming for that prob. I have had two shops look at it and they both
say that it is rist pin or bad pistons. I don't think that the shops here can
fix it, just f#@> it up some more. What to do now? lost.

 

[Bill Z]

rebuilt and now taping

Does the shop that rebuilt it give any warrantee?

I had a Camaro with a similar problem. It sounded like a lifter but resetting the valves did not make it go away. It would sound like it would go away but then would come back a few minutes later.

We had to tear down the engine and it ended up with a broken piston. It was broken across the lip through the ring groves down the skirt. The rings were holding it together. The pistons were new forged TRW pistons with about 800 miles on them.

With out being there I cannot say for certain but I would go with the mechanics opinion.

Again, are there any warrantees that can help your pocket book?

 

[TyMeUp]

First, make sure you don't have a cracked or loose exhaust manifold. A small leak will make a popping noise that sounds like a lifter tap.

Next, try to identify the rate (crankshaft or camshaft speed) of the 'tap' noise. Connect a timing light to any spark plug cable. Run the engine at idle (or at a speed where the noise can be heard). If the noise occurs at the same rate as ignition firing, its a camshaft - valve train noise. If the noise seems twice as fast as the ignition firing, its a crankshaft - connecting rod - piston problem.

- A defective lifter can make noise even if adjusted correctly.
- A cracked piston tapping noise will be loudest when the engine is cold (right after start-up). It will quiet down somewhat as the engine warms and the piston expands.
- A wrist pin noise will be a 'double' tapping sound.
- A rod bearing knock will be loudest at the transition between accelerating and decelerating the engine.

 

[overboost]

Went over the engine with a stethoscope and the noise is the loudest on the back of the intake. But when I listen with my ear under the Ty the noise is loudest around the flexplate. So broke flexplate? any one? any one?

 

[jwaller]

TC could be loose. just ask ryan this happened to him.

 

[truckins10]

I know you said you adjusted the valves but I have to ask if you did it properly?? If its idling rough and the tapping is coming from under the valve covers, the cheapest thing to do would be make sure the valves are adjusted correctly. You have to put the engine in #1 firing position with the timing marks on the balancer at 0* and then adjust 6valves(cant remeber which ones). Then turn the motor over till #4 cyclinder is in firing position at 0*. And adjust the last 6 valves. You tighten the valves down until you cannot spin the push rod by hand, once they, then tighten the nut one full turn.
If you did adjust the valves correctly, then just ignore this, it might be useful for other list members. Just trying to help. Fern Sy#477

 

[bigtime]

I know you said you adjusted the valves but I have to ask if you did it properly?? If its idling rough and the tapping is coming from under the valve covers, the cheapest thing to do would be make sure the valves are adjusted correctly. You have to put the engine in #1 firing position with the timing marks on the balancer at 0* and then adjust 6valves(cant remeber which ones). Then turn the motor over till #4 cyclinder is in firing position at 0*. And adjust the last 6 valves. You tighten the valves down until you cannot spin the push rod by hand, once they, then tighten the nut one full turn.
If you did adjust the valves correctly, then just ignore this, it might be useful for other list members. Just trying to help. Fern Sy#477

Above is assuming the balancer has not spun.....

the only correct way is,
0 lash plus your prefered amount of preload (I use 1/4 turn preload)

Adjust the intake valve when the exhaust valve starts to open
adjust the exhaust valve when the intake valve starts to close
move to next cyl.
a little more work but always correct no matter what cam is used.