propshaft leak
- Thread starter Osmosis
- Start date
SYO237
SyTy Registry
Re: propshaft leak
Take the shaft back off and replace the outer flange seal behind the yoke. You probably damaged it when doing the swap. Pops out pretty easy with a screwdriver, just be sure to carefully put it back in evenly and dont overtorque the bolt when putting it back together.
Dunno the seal # offhand, but its not expensive.... should be floating around if you do a search. If you search "propshaft seal" you will see everyone recommends to replace the flange seal cause it will usually leak after the swap.
Take the shaft back off and replace the outer flange seal behind the yoke. You probably damaged it when doing the swap. Pops out pretty easy with a screwdriver, just be sure to carefully put it back in evenly and dont overtorque the bolt when putting it back together.
Dunno the seal # offhand, but its not expensive.... should be floating around if you do a search. If you search "propshaft seal" you will see everyone recommends to replace the flange seal cause it will usually leak after the swap.
Osmosis
New member
Re: propshaft leak
I replaced my stock propshaft with a gilbert 2-3 weeks ago. I never noticed any leakage, till today. I've been running around like a chicken with it's head cut off, ton's of things going on right now. Anyway, I just got my wide band o2 kit installed and running right. I was in my garage and I loaged the truck in Drive, got the boost up to 4psi. I was looking @ my WBO2. Anyway, after an hour, I noticed some oil under the car. It looked like the oil sprayed out to the middle of the propshaft. I did notice oil in the front of the propshaft. Back to my propshaft install. I did overtighten the bolt about 1/2 turn, so I backed it out. I never noticed any oil leaking till today
I bet it is that seal. I really need to find that part number:roll:
Also, where do you fill and drain the front drive shaft? And what oil do you use?
Thanks everyone
I replaced my stock propshaft with a gilbert 2-3 weeks ago. I never noticed any leakage, till today. I've been running around like a chicken with it's head cut off, ton's of things going on right now. Anyway, I just got my wide band o2 kit installed and running right. I was in my garage and I loaged the truck in Drive, got the boost up to 4psi. I was looking @ my WBO2. Anyway, after an hour, I noticed some oil under the car. It looked like the oil sprayed out to the middle of the propshaft. I did notice oil in the front of the propshaft. Back to my propshaft install. I did overtighten the bolt about 1/2 turn, so I backed it out. I never noticed any oil leaking till today
I bet it is that seal. I really need to find that part number:roll:Also, where do you fill and drain the front drive shaft? And what oil do you use?
Thanks everyone
Jimmy
Banned
Re: propshaft leak
The fill plug is on top of the pumpkin towards the passenger side.There is no drain. You will need a hand pump to drain it. You fill it by adding lube until it starts coming out of the fill plug hole.
Holler at Michael Hood.He has the part # and the part.It's like 5 bux.I replaced my stock propshaft with a gilbert 2-3 weeks ago. I never noticed any leakage, till today. I've been running around like a chicken with it's head cut off, ton's of things going on right now. Anyway, I just got my wide band o2 kit installed and running right. I was in my garage and I loaged the truck in Drive, got the boost up to 4psi. I was looking @ my WBO2. Anyway, after an hour, I noticed some oil under the car. It looked like the oil sprayed out to the middle of the propshaft. I did notice oil in the front of the propshaft. Back to my propshaft install. I did overtighten the bolt about 1/2 turn, so I backed it out. I never noticed any oil leaking till today
Also, where do you fill and drain the front drive shaft? And what oil do you use?
Thanks everyone
The fill plug is on top of the pumpkin towards the passenger side.There is no drain. You will need a hand pump to drain it. You fill it by adding lube until it starts coming out of the fill plug hole.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: propshaft leak
Get under there and make sure there is NO play, up and down, at that yoke. Even the tinniest amount of movement is to much. If you have any you can tighten the nut in small increments until it's gone then tighten maybe an 1/8 turn at the most beyond that. ANY movement is bad will damage the seal and eventually everything else if allowed to continue.
Get under there and make sure there is NO play, up and down, at that yoke. Even the tinniest amount of movement is to much. If you have any you can tighten the nut in small increments until it's gone then tighten maybe an 1/8 turn at the most beyond that. ANY movement is bad will damage the seal and eventually everything else if allowed to continue.
Osmosis
New member
Re: propshaft leak
Don,
When I searched and put a thread up regarding the nut that holds the yolk on, I was told to mark it and install the nut to the exact position to how the nut came off so you don't mess with a change in the bearing preload. I did that, well, I acciadently went past aprox 1/3 of a turn. I back the nut out till my marks lined up.
If I tighten it past the orginal mark, I was told that was bad and would throw everything off???? And now your telling me to tighten it more? Will tightening up that nut throw off my pinion bearing preload?
I'm not flaming you, just confused as I can't see how making that nut tighter will cause any problems in alighnment, yet I was told to put the nut to the exact position it came off. I did that. I know little about bearing pre-load and rear ends....
And yes, I can move my yolk up and down a little bit...which concerns me. I noticed this when I got under the car and looked at the leak last night.
I drove it to work today and yep, a small drip that smells like gear oil right under the front propshaft seal.
So, what part number is the front propshaft seal?
Do I tighten the nut past the mark I put on the nut prior to installation, and will this cause any problems?
Thank you guys for all of the help!:tup:
Don,
When I searched and put a thread up regarding the nut that holds the yolk on, I was told to mark it and install the nut to the exact position to how the nut came off so you don't mess with a change in the bearing preload. I did that, well, I acciadently went past aprox 1/3 of a turn. I back the nut out till my marks lined up.
If I tighten it past the orginal mark, I was told that was bad and would throw everything off???? And now your telling me to tighten it more? Will tightening up that nut throw off my pinion bearing preload?
I'm not flaming you, just confused as I can't see how making that nut tighter will cause any problems in alighnment, yet I was told to put the nut to the exact position it came off. I did that. I know little about bearing pre-load and rear ends....
And yes, I can move my yolk up and down a little bit...which concerns me. I noticed this when I got under the car and looked at the leak last night.
I drove it to work today and yep, a small drip that smells like gear oil right under the front propshaft seal.
So, what part number is the front propshaft seal?
Do I tighten the nut past the mark I put on the nut prior to installation, and will this cause any problems?
Thank you guys for all of the help!:tup:
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Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: propshaft leak
Yes you started out correctly. The problem, same thing I did BTW, is you went to far. Now what you have to do is do like I explained. I went to a rear end shop and he told me what I told you. I did that with mine and have had -0- problem. ANY movement is bad. It will take out the seal and cause premature wear on the ring and pinion. The problem, if you want to call it that, is finding -0-.. It's difficult to push on the yoke and see very small movement at the same time. You're better off going a tiny bit to far than not far enough.
Sorry I don't know the seal # but any parts store should be able to look it up. Take the old one with you. Which, on removal, will drain most of your fluid anyway. :rotf: Didn't you want to do that also?
Yes you started out correctly. The problem, same thing I did BTW, is you went to far. Now what you have to do is do like I explained. I went to a rear end shop and he told me what I told you. I did that with mine and have had -0- problem. ANY movement is bad. It will take out the seal and cause premature wear on the ring and pinion. The problem, if you want to call it that, is finding -0-.. It's difficult to push on the yoke and see very small movement at the same time. You're better off going a tiny bit to far than not far enough.
Sorry I don't know the seal # but any parts store should be able to look it up. Take the old one with you. Which, on removal, will drain most of your fluid anyway. :rotf: Didn't you want to do that also?
Osmosis
New member
Re: propshaft leak
Dave,
Thanks for the instructions! If I'm reading this right, I can tighten the nut so I have no up and down play on the yolk, then turn the nut 1/8 of a turn more tight.
Regarding the torque wrench. Is this with the wheels hanging free, not on ramps and using a tq wrench, it should take 4ft/lbs of torque to turn the wheels?
Dave,
Thanks for the instructions! If I'm reading this right, I can tighten the nut so I have no up and down play on the yolk, then turn the nut 1/8 of a turn more tight.
Regarding the torque wrench. Is this with the wheels hanging free, not on ramps and using a tq wrench, it should take 4ft/lbs of torque to turn the wheels?
Osmosis
New member
Re: propshaft leak
NO, ignore the torque. I've done this a hundred times. I realize you haven't.
Leave the wheels on the ground. Makes it easier to torque the nut. (Safer, too).
What I meant by "feeling the torque required to turn the yoke" is that little bit of travel between where the pinion hits the ring gear (lash). It's only a degree or so, but you can actually feel that the pinion got tighter, when you 'get it right'. An experienced person might be able to 'feel' 4 ft lbs. You won't be able to. But you will feel that it 'got tighter' with that 1/8 turn after zero up and down. When you detect an increase in preload, stop. That's enough. QUOTE]
Ok, to detect the preload...questions. I had planed on putting the ty on ramps, is that ok? Kind of hard to get under the truck unless I jack the rear up and leave the front wheels on the ground.
AM I checking the front yolk for free movement for that 1/8th of a turn before turning the yolk for tightness?
I have a lot of experience on motors and tuning, but rearends.....that's another story
Thank you for the help:tup:
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