oil ?
- Thread starter wheele rider
- Start date
Peter
my Ty and me 25+ years
Re: oil ?
Standard oils have a wide range of molecular weight hydrocarbons chains. 10 wt, for instance is an average of higher and lower viscosities. Synthetic oils inherently have a much narrower range of molecular weight molecules. The lack of lower weight molecules, in particular, means the synthetic oils are more stable at high temperature. The lightweight molecules in regular old motor oil evaporate or otherwise break down at high temperatures. Turbocharged engines have areas (such as the turbo) of exceptionally high temperature. The high temperature stability of synthetics is at least one reason they are better for our engines.
Regarding 0w30, that is basically a 0 weight oil with viscosity enhancing polymers that bring it up to 30w viscosity at high temperature. 10w30 is 10 weight oil with viscosity enhancers that bring up to 30 weight. So 10w30 has less of the viscosity enhancers in it. Which would you rather have lubricating your engine, oil or a "viscosity enhancing polymer"? Oil gives more protection. These 0 or 5 base weight oils have become popular with the car companies because they give better gas mileage by reducing viscous friction losses.
Having said all that, I use Mobile1 10w30, although I wish it still had the high zinc/phosphorus content others have mentioned. All the above has to do with viscosity. There are other things that can be significant such as extreme pressure boundary lubricants (e.g. zinc/phosphorus), anti-foaming, anti-oxidants, detergents, and other additives. I have no idea which oils have the best "additive package". Presumably you get what you pay for with the high end racing oils.
Standard oils have a wide range of molecular weight hydrocarbons chains. 10 wt, for instance is an average of higher and lower viscosities. Synthetic oils inherently have a much narrower range of molecular weight molecules. The lack of lower weight molecules, in particular, means the synthetic oils are more stable at high temperature. The lightweight molecules in regular old motor oil evaporate or otherwise break down at high temperatures. Turbocharged engines have areas (such as the turbo) of exceptionally high temperature. The high temperature stability of synthetics is at least one reason they are better for our engines.
Regarding 0w30, that is basically a 0 weight oil with viscosity enhancing polymers that bring it up to 30w viscosity at high temperature. 10w30 is 10 weight oil with viscosity enhancers that bring up to 30 weight. So 10w30 has less of the viscosity enhancers in it. Which would you rather have lubricating your engine, oil or a "viscosity enhancing polymer"? Oil gives more protection. These 0 or 5 base weight oils have become popular with the car companies because they give better gas mileage by reducing viscous friction losses.
Having said all that, I use Mobile1 10w30, although I wish it still had the high zinc/phosphorus content others have mentioned. All the above has to do with viscosity. There are other things that can be significant such as extreme pressure boundary lubricants (e.g. zinc/phosphorus), anti-foaming, anti-oxidants, detergents, and other additives. I have no idea which oils have the best "additive package". Presumably you get what you pay for with the high end racing oils.
Re: oil ?
I almost understand you reasoning behind your answer, but I feel the need to disregard it. :tdown:
I almost understand you reasoning behind your answer, but I feel the need to disregard it. :tdown:
Re: oil ?
From 1963 through 1993, I drove at least five different company cars and traveled all over central and west Texas in 10 and 110 degree weather when the state had a 70 MPH speed limit., which I ignored. I had the oil changed every 6000 to 8000 miles at any local service station. I told the service station attendant to use any brand and type of motor oil he has on the shelf. The policy of the company I worked for was to auction the cars off when they reached 90,000 miles.
I never had any problems with any company car I drove, but that was in the days before "fake" motor oil was introduced for aluminum engines. Figure that one out.
From 1963 through 1993, I drove at least five different company cars and traveled all over central and west Texas in 10 and 110 degree weather when the state had a 70 MPH speed limit., which I ignored. I had the oil changed every 6000 to 8000 miles at any local service station. I told the service station attendant to use any brand and type of motor oil he has on the shelf. The policy of the company I worked for was to auction the cars off when they reached 90,000 miles.
I never had any problems with any company car I drove, but that was in the days before "fake" motor oil was introduced for aluminum engines. Figure that one out.
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MIXEDBREED
New member
Re: oil ?
I use mobil1 in every car I have owned. Ran 10w30 in the gto and it's in the sy. I run 5w30 mobil 1 in my trailblaser because thats what is on the oil cap and the tralblaser has 167K and has never had anything break or go out yet. Now I change all of my cars oil at 3k miles, sometimes the trailblaser goes longer cause I forget but so far so good.
If the trailblaser makes 200k then I will buy a rebuild kit and tear it down replace all the seals,gaskets and rings ect and rebuild the head and run it aslong as I can before it dies.
I change the trans fluid every 35-45k. Holds 8 pass and tows the syclone to the track or my another cars.
I use mobil1 in every car I have owned. Ran 10w30 in the gto and it's in the sy. I run 5w30 mobil 1 in my trailblaser because thats what is on the oil cap and the tralblaser has 167K and has never had anything break or go out yet. Now I change all of my cars oil at 3k miles, sometimes the trailblaser goes longer cause I forget but so far so good.
If the trailblaser makes 200k then I will buy a rebuild kit and tear it down replace all the seals,gaskets and rings ect and rebuild the head and run it aslong as I can before it dies.
I change the trans fluid every 35-45k. Holds 8 pass and tows the syclone to the track or my another cars.
dalwine250
Donating Member
Re: oil ?
I used Valvoline Racing 30 wt for 8 years and then switched to Valvoline VR-1 "Not Street Legal" 30 wt. in my 1963 Pontiac Catalina 421 HO 4 years ago. I recommended Valvoline VR-1 to the new owner when I sold it last year. I would have considered Brad Penn Grade 1, 10W-30 if was available locally but I don't feel it is worth buying it by mail order. .Brad Penn is the old Kendall brand of motor oil.
If I want to retain the catalytic converter on my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4, I must use Valvoline 10W-30 All Season or any major oil that is ILSAC GF-5 and API SN, SM, SL rated. .
I used Valvoline Racing 30 wt for 8 years and then switched to Valvoline VR-1 "Not Street Legal" 30 wt. in my 1963 Pontiac Catalina 421 HO 4 years ago. I recommended Valvoline VR-1 to the new owner when I sold it last year. I would have considered Brad Penn Grade 1, 10W-30 if was available locally but I don't feel it is worth buying it by mail order. .Brad Penn is the old Kendall brand of motor oil.
If I want to retain the catalytic converter on my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4, I must use Valvoline 10W-30 All Season or any major oil that is ILSAC GF-5 and API SN, SM, SL rated. .
Throws
Active member
Re: oil ?
Joe Gibbs and VR1 is awesome stuff. I used Joe Gibbs a few years ago as break-in oil for a LS2 427. Pricey, but awesome stuff.
-P
Joe Gibbs and VR1 is awesome stuff. I used Joe Gibbs a few years ago as break-in oil for a LS2 427. Pricey, but awesome stuff.
-P
. Leave it. Re: oil ?
After the EPA said "Get the lead out" in Part 2 of the Clean Air Act of 1970.......
Oil companies eliminated zinc in motor oils and the automakers introduced roller tappet camshafts.
Oil companies eliminated lead in gasoline and the automakers introduced induction hardened valve seats and reduced the valve spring seat loads.
Oil companies eliminated high octane gasoline to reduce emissions of oxides of nitrogen and the automakers lowered the compression ratios of engines.
Three negatives for street engines that must pass state emission inspections:
1.) No flat tappet camshafts..
2.) No valve spring seat pressure above 125 lb.
3.) No compression ratio above 10:1
In 1972, GM began to eliminate the spit-hole on the cam side of the rod caps and by 1974, GM engines did not have rods with camshaft oiling holes. That was because the EPA said there was too much oil being thrown onto the cylinder walls which led to difficult oil control and created more air pollution. As a result, Chevrolet began having warranty problems with flat camshafts due to lack of oil from the rod caps. In 1985, GM finally had to introduce hydraulic roller tappet camshafts. The introduction of roller tappet camshafts was not entirely because of the elimination of ZDDP in motor oils.
.
After the EPA said "Get the lead out" in Part 2 of the Clean Air Act of 1970.......
Oil companies eliminated zinc in motor oils and the automakers introduced roller tappet camshafts.
Oil companies eliminated lead in gasoline and the automakers introduced induction hardened valve seats and reduced the valve spring seat loads.
Oil companies eliminated high octane gasoline to reduce emissions of oxides of nitrogen and the automakers lowered the compression ratios of engines.
Three negatives for street engines that must pass state emission inspections:
1.) No flat tappet camshafts..
2.) No valve spring seat pressure above 125 lb.
3.) No compression ratio above 10:1
In 1972, GM began to eliminate the spit-hole on the cam side of the rod caps and by 1974, GM engines did not have rods with camshaft oiling holes. That was because the EPA said there was too much oil being thrown onto the cylinder walls which led to difficult oil control and created more air pollution. As a result, Chevrolet began having warranty problems with flat camshafts due to lack of oil from the rod caps. In 1985, GM finally had to introduce hydraulic roller tappet camshafts. The introduction of roller tappet camshafts was not entirely because of the elimination of ZDDP in motor oils.
.
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midnightbluS10
Banned
Re: oil ?
Why wouldn't you be able to?
and anyone worried about lower zinc and phosphorus levels can buy some ZDDPlus
Why wouldn't you be able to?
and anyone worried about lower zinc and phosphorus levels can buy some ZDDPlus
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Re: oil ?
A ZDDP oil additive is not needed unless your engine has flat tappet lifters with more than 330 lb. open valve spring pressure. Weak valve springs and roller lifters eliminated the need for ZDDP and OPEC eliminated the need for conventional oil. If it was not for OPEC, synthetic oil would not exist and we would still be using conventional oil.
A ZDDP oil additive is not needed unless your engine has flat tappet lifters with more than 330 lb. open valve spring pressure. Weak valve springs and roller lifters eliminated the need for ZDDP and OPEC eliminated the need for conventional oil. If it was not for OPEC, synthetic oil would not exist and we would still be using conventional oil.