IGottaSy
Active member
Did ECM come out for any reason? Maybe it's not plugged in right. Fuse behind alternator good?
https://youtu.be/kQUtAs-VrDY
https://youtu.be/kQUtAs-VrDY
Last edited:
No start after new engine install
- Thread starter Jay92Ty
- Start date
wildphil
I Love My Ty's
Did you ever figure out why you were not getting a signal to the injectors? I just don't remember for sure what you should see with a meter when looking at each lead. I think one has a little current the other a ground but could be all wrong.
This may be the wiring diagram. If not look at the sticky links above this thread.
This may be the wiring diagram. If not look at the sticky links above this thread.
Jay92Ty
Donating Member
I still cannot figure out why there's no injector pulse. Your correct, has current and one has ground. I have that exact same wiring diagram which I have printed and put together as a 6ft long diagram. Easier to follow 
. I'm super annoyed with this dam truck, but like someone once mentioned.." you gotta hate these trucks in order to really love them".
Could this have anything to do with the ignition at the key?
Possibly missing a ground somewhere?
Oil pressure sensor?
. I'm super annoyed with this dam truck, but like someone once mentioned.." you gotta hate these trucks in order to really love them".Could this have anything to do with the ignition at the key?
Possibly missing a ground somewhere?
Oil pressure sensor?
Jay92Ty
Donating Member
Alright, so I finally figured it out and finally got it started. After chasing my F*** TAIL it was the injectors. Bought them refurbished and I guess they were not compatible. Had my old ones cleaned and put them in, fired right up. So thats that. Now i have a bigger problem. Im getting 80psi on my oil gauge. NOT GOOD. Any ideas why I'm getting such a high reading? Possible no oil getting to the journals? Uhhhhhhhhh if its not one thing its another. Any ideas or advise is much appreciated.
DaveP's Ghost
Well-known member
80 psi indicated with COLD oil is not unusual if a "high volume" oil pump or aftermarket pump with an increased pressure spring has been installed.
There are several springs available for the Melling pumps, and there are usually two springs shipped with a pump. The green one is installed, and the yellow one loose in the box. There is also a plain colored spring. I forget the psi settings of the colors, but are probably available online.
I wouldn't worry about the gauge reading cold. Hot pressure at idle is what matters. I have a stock engine in a Ty that has never been out from between the fenders, still original bearings, and it has 35 psi indicated hot idle with 15/50 Mobil 1 oil. Cold pressure is about 75. I never worry about the gauge indication, as long it is where I expect it to be. It runs great. I'll be driving it 485 miles today. Not many owners left that still drive them on highway trips.
There are several springs available for the Melling pumps, and there are usually two springs shipped with a pump. The green one is installed, and the yellow one loose in the box. There is also a plain colored spring. I forget the psi settings of the colors, but are probably available online.
I wouldn't worry about the gauge reading cold. Hot pressure at idle is what matters. I have a stock engine in a Ty that has never been out from between the fenders, still original bearings, and it has 35 psi indicated hot idle with 15/50 Mobil 1 oil. Cold pressure is about 75. I never worry about the gauge indication, as long it is where I expect it to be. It runs great. I'll be driving it 485 miles today. Not many owners left that still drive them on highway trips.
Jay92Ty
Donating Member
Thanks to all for the replies. Been a big help. Ok that's awesome news. I do have a HV oil pump. To be honest I'm not sure what spring is in it but I guess I can always drop the pan and give a quick look. I should mention ( I forgot to to mention in my post) that in the process of starting it and seeing the 80psi I was also hearing a loud knock coming from the bottom near the oil pan. That is what really had me worried. Only ran it about 3 -4 time for about 10 secs. The knock is loud so I decided to not run it anymore until I investigate. One thing I can remember from the rebuild is that when I installed the eagle rods, the bolts where hitting the block. I shaved the block for clearance but I'm guessing with the engine moving there might not be enough clearance still. Just a guess but that's what it sounds like. A bit loud , its scary :-( . Just hoping I don't have to do open heart surgery to investigate. Fingers crossed!
Jay92Ty
Donating Member
I literally laughed as I read this, Phil you are correct..I'm a mess. This truck and my wife drive me crazy and make me be a mess but I love them both. One day every thing will be ok. I'll be driving my Ty like a happy man on the road and enjoying it as it should be enjoyed. This weekend I'm dropping the pan. Investigation time!
, Phil you are correct..I'm a mess. This truck and my wife drive me crazy and make me be a mess but I love them both. One day every thing will be ok. I'll be driving my Ty like a happy man on the road and enjoying it as it should be enjoyed. This weekend I'm dropping the pan. Investigation time!
DaveP's Ghost
Well-known member
You have to fix the interference issues, of course. I wouldn't worry about the oil pressure, spring, or anything else regarding the pump. You might want to double-check the clearance between the pick-up foot and the bottom of the pan to be sure that's correct.
To remove the pan with the engine still installed, READ THE FSM! One of the steps is to disconnect the steering linkage from the Pittman arm and the idler arm and push it forward. Remove the 4 bolts from the front diff and push it, along with the steering linkage as far forward as it will all go. Raise the engine until the trans contacts the body in the tunnel.
The pan will come off, but you MUST disconnect the steering. I know. I've done the Pan R&R in a 4X4. (I installed the oil pump valve upside down. I blew oil all over my shop while priming the pump when the oil filter seal blew out from the sky-high pressure. As soon as it happened, I knew what I had done wrong, and 4 hours later, it was fixed. Live and learn.)
To remove the pan with the engine still installed, READ THE FSM! One of the steps is to disconnect the steering linkage from the Pittman arm and the idler arm and push it forward. Remove the 4 bolts from the front diff and push it, along with the steering linkage as far forward as it will all go. Raise the engine until the trans contacts the body in the tunnel.
The pan will come off, but you MUST disconnect the steering. I know. I've done the Pan R&R in a 4X4. (I installed the oil pump valve upside down. I blew oil all over my shop while priming the pump when the oil filter seal blew out from the sky-high pressure. As soon as it happened, I knew what I had done wrong, and 4 hours later, it was fixed. Live and learn.)
Jay92Ty
Donating Member
Yesterday I got home from work and attacked it. The front diff is now removed. Did everything as you just explained ( I didn't have to pick up the engine) ..but regardless what a pain to be under the truck and trying to pull it out. I'm 6'5/ 275 lb wide body..lol NOT FUN. I will check today for gap between pick up and pan. Good to have you back DaveP, your knowledge of these Money Pitt trucks is just amazing. Will do an update tomorrow after further investigation. Again, thank you all for the help. Much appreciated.