So what did you do to fix the no oil pressure problem?well i got the truck started tonight, just for a few minutes, didn't give it any gas once it started, let it run for a few minutes, the oil pressure was close to 70psi, im using rotella 15w 40 oil, also on the magnetic assembly in the distributor i have a crack, so im getting that replaced, i really couldn't time the truck, im guessing that distributor is the problem, i forgot how loud my truck actually is, im sure all my neighbors were pist, gonna fix the distributor and hook up datamaster next time, a friend sat on my laptop and cracked the screen, so im waiting to get another one from someone:rant:
70psi, im using rotella 15w 40 oil
Is this what your builder wanted you to use? That's a awful thick oil!
In the future prime all motors like you did this one at the end. Make sure oil is coming out of all the pushrods/rockers before stopping the prime process.
Double check with your builder on what oil to use.
Glad it's almost back on the road!
~Scott
I only have the stock oil pressure gauge as of right now, in the process of buying a digital, well i had a leak where the oil cooler adapter connected to the block because of an old gasket so i have that fixed now, i was turning the motor over a few times with the plugs out but that was the wrong way to do it, so i went and rented the priming tool, hopefully that didn't hurt the bearings, i know he lubricated everything very well, when i spoke with my builder he told me to start off with a thicker weight, and see where the pressure was and possibly move down to the pressure was right, so im waiting on my digital gauge, new distributor parts, and datamaster before i fire it up again, should only be a couple more days!
I only have the stock oil pressure gauge as of right now, in the process of buying a digital, well i had a leak where the oil cooler adapter connected to the block because of an old gasket so i have that fixed now, i was turning the motor over a few times with the plugs out but that was the wrong way to do it, so i went and rented the priming tool, hopefully that didn't hurt the bearings, i know he lubricated everything very well, when i spoke with my builder he told me to start off with a thicker weight, and see where the pressure was and possibly move down to the pressure was right, so im waiting on my digital gauge, new distributor parts, and datamaster before i fire it up again, should only be a couple more days!
Definitely can't wait until everyone has their ladies rolling, hurry up man..what do you have left until it can be driven? Mine is almost done, Its hard to believe how much money i've invested in it, soon it will all be worth it!Mike, if you get your truck running, then that means I'm gonna have to get off my ass and make mine roadworthy again. We might actually have a meet with all of our trucks sometime this year. Crazy.![]()
I should really read more about the different oil types on the market, I remember reading from others who said the rotella was great oil for the break-in period, and possibly to keep running in the truck afterwards, i'll make up my mind once i get a good oil pressue gauge and some runs!You want to spend a few days learning about motor oil, Google "ZDDP".
Rotella (Shell) or Delo 400 (Chevron) are great oils in in engines with sliding-surface valve train components. The TBN and ZDDP (zinc) concentrations are higher in these API spec SI and SJ oils. Absolutely NOTHING wrong with using SI And SJ oils in anything you care a lot about. And it takes effort to find and use these oils, so you have to really care about your engine to go to the trouble to find them.
Modern multi-grades are spec SM. The ZDDP level is too low for flat-tappet camshaft engines. Even though ur engines have roller-lifters, they still have rocker balls, and slide on the valve stem. And pressed piston pins. The SJ oil is a good deal for them.
The 15/40 grade is fine for SoCal year round, Scott. Personally, I use straight Delo 400 30W. 30 is OK for cold starts down to 40ºF. We seldom get below that temp here. I've been using straight 30 in ALL my cars for over 7-8 years, now. The engines sound better, too. A lot quieter than with 10/30. I never liked the wear pattern on the rod bearings in any of my engines that ran 10-30, or Mobil 1. I really feel that oil is too thin. Especially in SoCal ambient temps.
My Typhoon had nothing in it but Delo 30W for the 30K miles since the rebuild before the new owner blew it up. I wonder what the bearings look like? Maybe he'll see this, and post up pics. I would be very curious to know.
Definitely can't wait until everyone has their ladies rolling, hurry up man..what do you have left until it can be driven? Mine is almost done, Its hard to believe how much money i've invested in it, soon it will all be worth it!