MAP sensor issues.

[AquaBeef]

I recently purchased a new MAP sensor for the truck but I am seeing some Ebay sales with 2BAR MAP sensors turbo boost with wires, mine did not include wires? I see the GM 16009886 is discontinued and I am unable to find an OEM sensor. I have called around and I am hearing MAP sensor needs to be a ZR9 Syclone package sensor part number 12569241. I now have a stack of MAP sensors that parts departments swear are the correct map sensors, none of them work correctly.
When I unplug the MAP sensor vehicle will idle without issue but when ever I swap on of these sensors in vehicle will die or run incredibly rich.
Can anyone point me in a correct direction for a replacement MAP sensor?

Any help would be amazing.


Below are sensors I have.

Ebay MAP

EMS00194

 

[gmemony2]

Did you try this one? 213-1545 auto zone.

Otherwise, the only place I can think of that might have one is Sportmachines.

 

[AquaBeef]

Did you try this one? 213-1545 auto zone.

Otherwise, the only place I can think of that might have one is Sportmachines.

I purchased this MAP sensor. Seems the connector on my truck does not fit the new MAP.
Do I have to purchase a new connector and splice it??

Thanks.

 

[wildphil]

I would want to be very sure that it was the correct sensor before I changed out any connectors. I have never bought a replacement sensor that was for a stock type replacement that was not a direct plug in.

 

[DaveP's Ghost]

Seems the connector on my truck does not fit the new MAP.
Do I have to purchase a new connector and splice it??

No. The pin outs are the same for all MAPs. What changes are the slots and indexes in the connector shell. Look at your connector and look down into the MAP's connector. You'll see that the indexes in the MAP don't line-up with the slots in the car's connector. Use an exacto blade and modify the car's connector to match the indexes in the MAP.

Now. After you get the new MAP connected, turn the key to RUN, but do not start. If you have a stock calibration, you want a 2-Bar MAP. The factory boost gauge should read very close to "0". Straight across. You can also use your VOM and measure the voltage between the green wire and the black wire. It should be close to 2.5 Volts.

A 3-Bar MAP will read 1.63 Volts, and the boost gauge will read about 1/3 down into the green or vacuum section of the gauge. If you want a 2-Bar, and you're getting readings of a 3-Bar, you probably HAVE a 3-Bar. It won't run right.

 

[AquaBeef]

No. The pin outs are the same for all MAPs. What changes are the slots and indexes in the connector shell. Look at your connector and look down into the MAP's connector. You'll see that the indexes in the MAP don't line-up with the slots in the car's connector. Use an exacto blade and modify the car's connector to match the indexes in the MAP.

Now. After you get the new MAP connected, turn the key to RUN, but do not start. If you have a stock calibration, you want a 2-Bar MAP. The factory boost gauge should read very close to "0". Straight across. You can also use your VOM and measure the voltage between the green wire and the black wire. It should be close to 2.5 Volts.

A 3-Bar MAP will read 1.63 Volts, and the boost gauge will read about 1/3 down into the green or vacuum section of the gauge. If you want a 2-Bar, and you're getting readings of a 3-Bar, you probably HAVE a 3-Bar. It won't run right.

I will give this a shot thank you!

 

[AquaBeef]

No. The pin outs are the same for all MAPs. What changes are the slots and indexes in the connector shell. Look at your connector and look down into the MAP's connector. You'll see that the indexes in the MAP don't line-up with the slots in the car's connector. Use an exacto blade and modify the car's connector to match the indexes in the MAP.

Now. After you get the new MAP connected, turn the key to RUN, but do not start. If you have a stock calibration, you want a 2-Bar MAP. The factory boost gauge should read very close to "0". Straight across. You can also use your VOM and measure the voltage between the green wire and the black wire. It should be close to 2.5 Volts.

A 3-Bar MAP will read 1.63 Volts, and the boost gauge will read about 1/3 down into the green or vacuum section of the gauge. If you want a 2-Bar, and you're getting readings of a 3-Bar, you probably HAVE a 3-Bar. It won't run right.

Okay with new MAP sensor installed ACdelco brand 213 1545 with the connector corrected cluster showing full boost position two ignition. With the OEM sensor in it shows as you described. Not sure if this AC Delco brand is correct.

 

[wildphil]

I would say if you had to cut slits in the connector for the new map sensor to work with the connector then it is probably a 3 bar map and will not work on a truck with a stock chip. A 2 bar map sensor should have worked on the connector as it was.

This is supposed to be a AC Delco 2-bar map. Pretty pricey. https://www.ebay.com/itm/3539315993...80702891777580&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291

 

[AquaBeef]

I would say if you had to cut slits in the connector for the new map sensor to work with the connector then it is probably a 3 bar map and will not work on a truck with a stock chip. A 2 bar map sensor should have worked on the connector as it was.

This is supposed to be a AC Delco 2-bar map. Pretty pricey. https://www.ebay.com/itm/353931599341?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1yUb6m3WsRWi46DZ3dOae3g26&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=353931599341&targetid=4580702891777580&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418640321&mkgroupid=1233652283797640&rlsatarget=pla-4580702891777580&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291

Thank you, I was able to get the map sensor working and the vehicle idles.
But I have a new issue, I was testing my throttle position sensor and sweeping and monitoring with my multimeter and it looks like when sweeping the sensor it cuts out. So when I idle the truck it has no issues but when under load it hesitates and dies.
I have have attempted to try and replace the throttle position sensor but the arms are different.
New arm is down and not resting on the arm that is fixed to throttle body.

Thanks for all the advice.
This truck is draining my bank account and patience.

 

[wildphil]

If you can learn how to do the repair work on a SyTy you are going to become a pretty good mechanic if you are not one already.

 

[AquaBeef]

Code 34 now displaying when at idle. CEL illuminated. Tested voltage at MAP sensor 4.5v. Can throttle and put engine under load but when it comes back to idle engine runs very rough and stumbles. Noticed when at idle and I jiggle test or touch MAP sensor the vehicle will die.

Here's a video when jiggling the sensor.

 

[wildphil]

Could it be not making a good connection the connector? I don't know for sure. But did you end up having to cut slits in your connector to be able to plug the MAP sensor in? I don't know for sure but if you did I would not be surprised if that is not the proper MAP if you had to do so. It could possibly even be a 1 bar MAP. Just a thought. Now if the MAP plugged right into the connector with no mods it most likely is the correct one.

 

[2500avalanche]

Maybe the wire inside of the jacket is split. That happened to mine.

 

[wildphil]

This site says that the 213-1545 MAP is a 1 bar sensor. https://www.eficonnection.com/home/product/acdelco-manifold-absolute-pressure-map-sensor-213-1545

This is supposed to be a 2 bar map. Look where the connector plugs in do the ridges look like they line up with the original slots in the map connector? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=40689

 

[AquaBeef]

This site says that the 213-1545 MAP is a 1 bar sensor. https://www.eficonnection.com/home/product/acdelco-manifold-absolute-pressure-map-sensor-213-1545

This is supposed to be a 2 bar map. Look where the connector plugs in do the ridges look like they line up with the original slots in the map connector? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=40689

Only the OEM map sensor allows the truck to idle. And none of the other sensors have the same ridges. Possible that all these other sensors are 1 Bar?

 

[wildphil]

I don't know for a fact. But I would think that they are something other than a 2 bar if they do not plug directly into your connector as it was from the factory. That is the reason that connectors are set up with special features like the ridges. So the wrong part can not be plugged into them.

Is your original MAP sensor defective?

 

[DaveP's Ghost]

Could it be not making a good connection the connector?

^^ THIS ^^

The ground connection is open. With no ground, the MAP voltage goes to 4.5.

 

[AquaBeef]

This site says that the 213-1545 MAP is a 1 bar sensor. https://www.eficonnection.com/home/product/acdelco-manifold-absolute-pressure-map-sensor-213-1545

This is supposed to be a 2 bar map. Look where the connector plugs in do the ridges look like they line up with the original slots in the map connector? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=40689

I purchased the correct MAP sensor ( MAP )
No longer throwing a CEL engine still idles rough.
I have tested the fuel pressure at fuel rail 45 PSI at idle, drops to around 5 psi with key off.
Removed and cleaned IAC
Reset the IAC adaptions (jumped pins and cycled ignition and removed fuse)
Cleaned all ground connections.
I can remove vacuum from MAP sensor and run vehicle vacuum seems good. Purchased a vacuum gauge and monitored voltage at signal voltage drops under vacuum. Constant 4.9v when back probed at reference.

If I remove map sensor vacuum line and cap vacuum line while using vacuum gauge put contestant vacuum at MAP sensor vehicle will idle correctly but as soon as connector to MAP is moved vehicle will die out or RPMS will dip. Figured my next step will be to de pin this connector possible this could be the cause of the issue.

 

[wildphil]

I really don't know what would be the cause of your truck having those issues. I would think the the wires are in the correct locations on the connector now or you would still have a CEL.

Have you taken the readings that Dave suggested in post 5?