Lets talk HID

G

green73

Donating Member
Re: Lets talk HID

Many in the 4x4 world use these guys: http://www.roundeyes.com/Products-Replacement_Headlamps.html

They are known to take a beating pretty good in that world, so I am sure in a street truck they would be fine. Notice that they are DOT approved. Yea they are POLYCARBONATE lenses, but so are fighter jet canopies. Way different than generic clear plastic. I am thinking of giving them a try with an auxiliary relay harness too.

Just another option, but a little more expensive.

The IPF 7.25 inch headlight housing is a glass lense. http://www.adv4x4.com/7rehere.html I have their round ones with their H4 bulba and a aux relay harness in my 1973 Land Cruiser and those headlights are VERY bright. One ov the biggest things I have found that helps standard H3/H4 bulb output is the aux harness. Using that takes all the amp draw out of the OEM headlight switch giving your bulbs the full 13-14 volts directly from the battery. With the OEM set-up you are doing good to get 12 volts.
 
jklein68

jklein68

Donating Member
Re: Lets talk HID

Blazin_Jason said:
I would suggest the truck-lite conversion housings, based on the pics I've seen online. The ebay ones with the fake projector is about the worst you can get. I just installed my hid retro last night using fx-r projectors.

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So, you can install those fx-r projectors in any H4 conversion housing like the Autopal ones mentioned above? I couldn't find the Truck-lite conversion housings online.
 
Blazin_Jason

Blazin_Jason

New member
Re: Lets talk HID

jklein68 said:
So, you can install those fx-r projectors in any H4 conversion housing like the Autopal ones mentioned above? I couldn't find the Truck-lite conversion housings online.
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Truck lite 27009. I thought I had a bookmark for a site with good pricing, but can't find it. HID projectors were installed in the cheap ebay fake projector housings. But most aftermarket housings will work as well. Some prefer ones with a plastic lens, or aluminum housing. I just went with cheap, since they are all cut up now.

Turbotoyz said:
Who let the rice in? j/k, man thats the first time I have seen those things. You must be a youngin! Not my cup o tea, but to each his own I say! :tup:
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Trust me I don't like how these look on this style vehicle either. Just too out of place. But when you hit the headlights at night, I totally forget what they look like outside ;)
 
Turbotoyz

Turbotoyz

Member
Re: Lets talk HID

Blazin_Jason said:
Trust me I don't like how these look on this style vehicle either. Just too out of place. But when you hit the headlights at night, I totally forget what they look like outside ;)
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I couldn't do it, too fugly.

I have an HID kit on my liberty, lemme tell you, holy crap. The headlights gotta be 8 inch rounds or close to that, stupid bright.
 
fauXGT

fauXGT

Brick Pilot
Re: Lets talk HID

I run Silver Star bulbs in the Tahoe, which work great, especially in fog/snow storms. Bright white color.
I have Hella lenses on the SoGT, which gives a nice, straight upper, cut off of light. I think I'll try the Silver Stars in the Hellas and the fogs for next year. Give good light w/o the ricer look.:2cents:
 
sly dvl

sly dvl

Ya, it's got a Turbo
Re: Lets talk HID

Just to jump on the bandwagon here, I've used a couple sets of these in a couple different applications (not on my Syclone though) and have never had a bad ballast, bulb or any other issue.
 
Mephisto

Mephisto

These trucks are cursed
Re: Lets talk HID

Turbotoyz said:
I have bought several sets. The first set I bought for when I had my '04 Bimmer. I upgraded the fog lights to HID. Spent $200 on the kit, that was in 2007. They never blinked out on me, forget the brand name though. Purchased them on eBay.

Second set I bought for my first Jeep liberty, worked okay. One headlight would constantly blink out, eventually the Jeep met its demise with a semi and I didnt have to worry about fixing it.

Third and fourth set I purchased for my second Jeep liberty. Spent around $50ish bucks on each set. The kit I used on the headlights still has the damned blinking problem. It takes a minute or two for the "bulb" to warm up. Then it doesn't blink off. I converted the foglights too. Just not at the same time and again, $50ish bucks. This kit doesn't blink out at all. Both eBay kits. A couple years old.

I have the H4 conversion housing on the Ty now and have been looking at HID kits on eBay. It seems its more or less a crap shoot, unless you are willing to spend closer to $100-$200.
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are you using a relay harness in the jeep headlights? I just got my roommate an HID conversion for christmas for his wrangler and had the same problem with the lights not working right.... and i thought it was just shitty HIDs... after some research online, turns out it's shitty wiring and the headlights aren't getting enough juice. You need to wire in a 40a relay straight from the battery into the ballasts and you'll be good to go.

back on topic, anyone have a source for the glass euro spec hella housings?

i found these but there's no designation if they're glass or euro... http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=1323#tabsanchor

FWIW my friend gave me a set of the cheapy Xentec (err whatever they're called) HIDs that he bought for his GFs car which didn't fit. I put them in my mazdarati (which eats regular H3 bulbs weekly) and after 2 years I haven't had a problem with them at all. Guess my kit was made on wednesday.
 
gaugeprower

gaugeprower

Doghouse Member
Re: Lets talk HID

Ok, I did an H4 HId conversion. the light output was great vs stock but its WRONG. It will always be WRONG, and will always look like SHIT because its WRONG. I used diamond reflector glass lenses and the HIDs had Hi/Low electronic solenoid moving shields to block light for highbeam lowbeam. I had to aim my lights all the way down to not blind anyone and it did shit for me. 6000K so it wasnt the color that was a problem either. I hate the output on the road, and the fact that I wasted about 120 bucks on the whole setup after lenses and the kit and the battery harness. I can't wait to rip all that junk out and throw it in the freakin garbage...

Now, here's how to do this the right way. First off, the stock harnesses wont run HID's, only one light will turn on, and you'll risk ruining your electrical system. You'll need a battery harness to run the hid lights directly off the battery. 2nd, youll need a GOOD kit. This includes glass-optic projector lenses that you need to install into a new pair of H4 glass lenses. Youll need to heat and take apart the lenses and install the projector inside, and then reseal the lens using the included butyl rubber cement glue. The kit will use either H1 size or D2S (official HIDs) size. These projector lenses will have a mechanism internally that snaps open and closed to change your highbeam and lowbeam. If you've ever sat in a Mercedes and played with real HID's you'll know how they work. This real deal type of install is the only way to go. Get your kit from ***www.theretrofitsource.com***

I reccomend these kits for SyTy install:
1) http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=237
2) http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=227

This will give you that perfect line cutoff, that perfect color, the benefit of using real projectors and real shrouds, the benefit of using real high quality (phillips type oem quality) ballasts and bulbs. and if you use the D2S kit you can use any real OEM bulb you want, even a legit Phillips D2S. You get both high and low beam together (no separate bulbs) It looks cleaner, and it comes with that battery harness with relays like I mentioned before.

INSTALL GUIDE: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pdf/trs_tech/Morimoto_Mini_D2S_Retrofit.pdf

VIDEO OVERVIEW OF KIT:


Poke around on their website and look at the installs and the results. Yea its not your cheap 80 dollar ebay kit, but this is the right way and only way to go about this. Ive learned the hard way.. My Xentec ebay kit is much brighter and better than stock, but its complete shit compared to a proper correct HID install. I've been blinding the shit out of everyone and my lights have been aimed too low for me to drive around with the lowbeams on so what good is that? Too much lost light.

good luck I'd love to see pics of one of these kits done, I've seen 3 of these conversions in person on old school jeep wranglers so that's why I'm familiar with the quality and look. I definitely want these on my truck when I get it running asap. Maybe even on the equinox but those lenses are stupid expensive and im not in any way a pro at taking those lenses apart so I'll most likely break one...

Here's a 2nd Gen s10 pickup and an old Wrangler for another look at how sealed beams look after conversion...
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If you don't like the chrome in the housing just paint it all black or color match the truck...:tup:
 
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Flyin Ryan

Flyin Ryan

hated cuz he drives fords
Re: Lets talk HID

I don't understand why non of the kits I seen posted come with the shields. I purchased my kit years ago and it was less then $80 when all said and done. From what I've found, the key to the kit giving me great cutoff and useable light was both the glass euro spec housings for light distribution and the use of shields. With out the shields I would have been forced probably to aim the lights down a bit to be legal and non threatening to other drivers which defeats the purpose.

I see this all the time with the fake want a be projector style plastic housings on every low rider s10 in my area.. one they look like crap, two they blind everyone, three they are horrible quality and fog, four they have to be aimed down enough that you end up with less viewable distance then before the mod.

My junk is old so im not sure why no one's offering there's with shields on them but I wouldn't install another kit into an h4 housing without them. I installed a $34 no name pair off ebay two years ago into my wife's car with shields and have had zero issues.. never touched the aim of the housings.

Cant' tell from the pics but they are 6000k heat range and haven't had a problem with the law ever and two of my three current cars have them.

Here's my cheesy kit I purchased years ago for my syclone. You'll notice it's no name, old style ballasts and well pretty basic other then having a two way HID bulb (low/high) and the shields.

If I can find a set of the housings again cheap I will be picking up a set though to see if I can tint them without it looking stupid.

DSC04593.jpg


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Coupled with Hella or Autopal Euro spec Glass H4 conversion housings
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Not bad cutoff at all
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Now only if someone could locate a bulb that would fit inside our fog light housing without having to chop the shit out of the housings to get it to work
 
Mephisto

Mephisto

These trucks are cursed
Re: Lets talk HID

Tech9 your kit looks pretty good! Got any shots of the lights from a bit of a distance? like 20' away?

Did you black out the projector lens housing and the inside of the conversion housing?

if i went this route it would have to be stealth... yeah the projector set up is awesome, but I'd have to go with the cheap shit HID kit if projectors can't be done without looking like I got HAL 9000 for headlights. I don't want to be trapped outside my Typhoon asking it to open the pod bay doors.
 
gaugeprower

gaugeprower

Doghouse Member
Re: Lets talk HID

Flyin' Ryan's kit is the style I currently have on the truck, and like I said, it is much better than stock... His setup seems to have a little bit better cutoff than mine as well. probably has to do with the lenses he used. Which is why I was forced to aim my lenses lower than necessary. For the money, that kit is a huge help, especially over stock sealed beams. I'm just looking for that "perfectionist" upgrade and figured I'd share the details lol. As for what lenses to use with the projector retrofit. You can use any of the H4 conversion lenses. The euro spec glass ones will be best, or hellas, or top quality lenses. However, since the projector is really going to be providing the light output, it doesn't really matter at all since the lens, in the end, will just be a "housing" to protect the projector. So whether you use a 20 dollar ebay diamond cut or a 200 dollar hella conversion lens, it wont change your light output. I'd personally recommend glass just because it'l stand up to the elements better and be more durable, if you can find metal back-housings instead of plastic that would be a plus too for longevity.

Tech9's kit is exactly what I'm going for, but I'll paint the reflector housings and shrouds WA5111 white to match the truck. Thanks for the heads up on the lens separation issues you had. I'm glas that the lenses are only 20-30 bucks vs a few hundred on newer cars.
 
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