L35 Rocker Arm Issue

S10 Guy

S10 Guy

Member
So got around to installing my (181) L35 heads with screw in rocker studs last weekend :woot:
BUT, the rocker arms from my stock Syclone heads wont fit on. The "cam" (piece that goes beneath the rocker arm nut on stock press in stud heads) does not fit past the threads on my screw in stud L35 heads.

Question is, what rocker arms / valve train should i get to work with my screw in stud L35 heads? Thank you!
 
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Couger1968

Couger1968

Dazed and Confused
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

Did you change studs, L35(non adjustable) studs are different from LB4(adjustible)
 
liquidswords88

liquidswords88

I pity da fool
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

I used arp screw in studs, and arp poly locks. Stud kit 100-7201. Poly lock kit 300-8241

The poly locks were too tall to fit under my vortec plastic valve covers. Not sure if they would fit under the stock metal valve covers. I used a dremel and made some room in the plastic ones.

Forgot to add, I would be careful Changing the studs with the heads on the engine. The factory ones contain some sort of locktite, which breaks up and fall into the combustion chamber when you pull the factory studs. I would at least pull all the spark plugs after the change and crank it over to shoot out all the debris. I changed mine when I had the heads off of the engine.
 
liquidswords88

liquidswords88

I pity da fool
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

Prw 835002. Those are self align roller tip rockers. I have used these on street stock vortec Sbc for years and they hold up well. They are great for the price. You have to buy a set for a v8 though. A full roller fulcrum in my opinion is a waste of money with the low rpm that these 4.3 turn.
 
Couger1968

Couger1968

Dazed and Confused
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

You need to change the studs. The diameter of the screw in L35 is different than the press in LB4. The studs listed above will screw in and be the correct diameter and will allow the use of the stock arms. I am not sure of the diameter although they look totally different , but they are a different system as L35 you just tightened the arms down and were done . The stock syclone LB4 were adjustable and needed to be set.
 
S10 Guy

S10 Guy

Member
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

Couger1968 said:
You need to change the studs. The diameter of the screw in L35 is different than the press in LB4. The studs listed above will screw in and be the correct diameter and will allow the use of the stock arms. I am not sure of the diameter although they look totally different , but they are a different system as L35 you just tightened the arms down and were done . The stock syclone LB4 were adjustable and needed to be set.
Click to expand...

Is using "stock L35" rockers an option?
 
Couger1968

Couger1968

Dazed and Confused
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

I don't know, I thought about it. I didn't know if I would run into issues elsewhere. It seems everyone just change the studs. Some do drill and retap the head so they can use the larger small block studs instead of the smaller metric screw in. I didn't since I am not running a huge cam and didn't want the extra work. They just screw in although I added a machine washer to give them a little more hight.
 
randy merritt

randy merritt

Donating Member
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

S10 Guy said:
would a kit like this work?
http://www.compperformancegroupstor...ct_Code=RP1412-12&Category_Code=CHEV466Rocker
Click to expand...

I wouldn't think so. I'm not sure if those are self aligning rockers. You need a stock style to go along with the metric studs you have on your stock L35 heads. They do make retrofit studs that have metric threads on the bottom of the stud, but if you are just going for a stockish build, I would just use the factory rocker arms. As was said earlier, they are just torqued down to spec (rocker arm nuts), and you just run them.

I am using a stock set of L35 on my roller rebuild (which is running now), and I just used the stock rocker arms that came with the L35 heads.
 
S10 Guy

S10 Guy

Member
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

randy merritt said:
I wouldn't think so. I'm not sure if those are self aligning rockers. You need a stock style to go along with the metric studs you have on your stock L35 heads. They do make retrofit studs that have metric threads on the bottom of the stud, but if you are just going for a stockish build, I would just use the factory rocker arms. As was said earlier, they are just torqued down to spec (rocker arm nuts), and you just run them.

I am using a stock set of L35 on my roller rebuild (which is running now), and I just used the stock rocker arms that came with the L35 heads.
Click to expand...

stock L35 pushrods too?
 
S10 Guy

S10 Guy

Member
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

randy merritt said:
I used the stock pushrods, as it is not a high HP build. Hardened one piece pushrods are better, but I didn't feel the need for them. That is really up to you.
Click to expand...

not doing a real serious build either. did head gaskets and figured i should throw on L35's instead of the boat anchors haha.
 
S10 Guy

S10 Guy

Member
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

randy merritt said:
I wouldn't think so. I'm not sure if those are self aligning rockers. You need a stock style to go along with the metric studs you have on your stock L35 heads. They do make retrofit studs that have metric threads on the bottom of the stud, but if you are just going for a stockish build, I would just use the factory rocker arms. As was said earlier, they are just torqued down to spec (rocker arm nuts), and you just run them.

I am using a stock set of L35 on my roller rebuild (which is running now), and I just used the stock rocker arms that came with the L35 heads.
Click to expand...

So I should get stock L35 rocker arms, and the rest of my stock stuff will work just fine? i wonder if there is a push rod length difference between the stock and L35?
 
Couger1968

Couger1968

Dazed and Confused
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

If you are not trying to reinvent the wheel, I would just put the studs in and be done with it and use all the stock stuff. The nuts would be up to you since ARP said not to use them, but I really don't know why. I put poly locks on to be safe. It really isn't that hard to set rockers. It all fit under stock valve metal covers.Then push rod length, lifters and cams would not be an issue. Some L35 heads had a hard time not rattling the rockers and it couldn't be adjusted out. I guess I like the easy way.
 
liquidswords88

liquidswords88

I pity da fool
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

Arp says not to use the nuts because they are a one time use. They are a type of locknut. When you remove them the threads become razor sharp and do not hold well once reused. I agree with cougar1968. Polylocks will make sure that the valve train can be set with the proper lash. If you want to know what works, then stick with what's been proven.
 
Aeroking

Aeroking

e.i.
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

i doubt Polylocks will work with stock stamped rockers.

For one the stamped rockers have a thin body, and the Polylock would bottom out on the top of the stud.

Second, the stamped rockers use a rounded nut as the pivot. Polylocks are flat on the bottom, so it wouldn't work.
 
liquidswords88

liquidswords88

I pity da fool
Re: L35 Rocker Arm Issue

Aeroking said:
i doubt Polylocks will work with stock stamped rockers.

For one the stamped rockers have a thin body, and the Polylock would bottom out on the top of the stud.

Second, the stamped rockers use a rounded nut as the pivot. Polylocks are flat on the bottom, so it wouldn't work.
Click to expand...


The roller tip rockers I am using are the same exact dimensions as a stock stamped steel rocker. They also use the same pivot ball as a stock stamped steel rocker. A ct350 crate engine from g.m. Comes with vortec heads with stamped steel rockers and polylocks, from the factory.

This whole setup requires the use of the arp studs. Using the factory studs from the l35 will not allow the polylocks.
 
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