I want to hear from all the 9/11 users and ex-users.

I want to hear from all the 9/11 users and ex-users.


  • Total voters
    1

InvisiBill

Active member
I'm still not getting the whole tight/loose vs. stall speed thing... From everything I've read, it sounds like "loose" just means it slips more and "tight" means it catches sooner, obviously relative terms. Isn't slipping more equivalent to a higher stall speed though? So a "loose 2500" and a "tight 2600" might have the same real-world performance?

On a note related to the original question, the TC that we pulled out of my truck had the 1650 code on it. We put in the stock-level 2175 when it was rebuilt. I'm used to it now, but it definitely takes more throttle to get it moving now. So would that be due to the higher stall, or is it a crappy "loose" TC?
 

E-Rue

New member
i thought "loose/tight" was a term that described how the converter acted below the stall point. which would describe how it pulled at light throttle? i could be wrong.... someone clear this up for me.

e
 
adam, do u really have a cat named yoda?
thats pretty fucked up - so do i!
she was all messed up llookin as a kitten and was uglier then yoda and had the same ears.
and i am positive everyone totally cares, but i am bored.
 
B

Blake

Guest
Lots of problems with mine.
Lots of blue crud(friction material) down in it from where they cleaned the paint off of the stub that goes down into the pump. They told me to put clay on the end of a stick and clean out as best I could :roll:
Failed on startup. Clanged banged. Went away after 5 to 7 seconds. Called TCS back did all the checks. TCS(Rusty) wanted it back while someone else told me the prob was elsewhere. It would let the truck roll backwards down hills, had to get it up to 2000 rpm to get over speedbumps(really loose). Had lock up shudder really bad(supposedly due to a release spring delete). Filled my transmission up with crud twice necesitating 3 pulls while the game went on. Wouldn't use another one. Don't like the "luck of the draw" thing.
If you feel like you just HAVE to have one, put on a huge cooler and an inline filter to catch crap coming out of it and don't get pissed off if it messes up and be thrilled if yours works.
George
 

ed hess

race or get outta the way
i have the new billet 911 with a pte60. The loose feel you all talk about actually has a fix if you ask brian for it. Although it does cost like 90 bucks. As bian explained it to me. It has something to do with the amount of fluid in the tranny. If there is not enough and you accelerate then the converter will slip more.

This is shows up as:
1 Not being able to feel 1-2 shifts like you did before. Like when you could chirp the 1-2 with your old B&M 2400 unit
2 Launching at 14psi at 4000rpm on a 2800 stall unit
3 not being able to see the 1-2 shift in Dm
4 brian has his own concise description of how it acts right before a shift but i cant recall the words. His descritionis right on the problem.

So does the fix work?

Well if you ask me in a week or 2 i will let you know as the stuff is on its way to me right now from brian.

And if brian comes to visit his inlaws in mt laurel or marlton in the next few weeks i might talk him into (pay him) to put this in.

So what is it. Not sure but it might be an acumulator but dont quote me on it. It is a clyinder that moves up and down between the tc and the valve body. the valve body does not get removed. There is a snap ring that gets removed which is kinda deep and has 2 lands, the 2nd of which is the one you reinstall the ring at. I did this once before doin a shift kit but i dont have the print infronmt of me to be more exact on this.

Hopefully brian will jump in here and add to what i am saying.

I a kinda surprised reading this thread that no one who responed seemed to have talked to brian about this minor fix upgrade.

So what do i think.
Well if this fix makes the tc feel like it does when i use the lockup switch or stall for drivability like my old B&m 2400 then i will be happy.

If not.... time will tell as this whole setup is only weeks old for me.
Just having the higher stall takes a little gettin used to. I am a lot more used to it than i was the 1st time around the block.

Again I am surprised i dont see others saying anything about this fix brian is sending me. perhaps no one asked him about it?

ed
 
B

Blake

Guest
We're talking about the old style 9/11s. I'm certain there are design improvements and better continuity of quality (repeatability of certain stalls) in the new billet units. Apples and oranges from the advertisement BH posted to the syty list a while back.

The area you are describing sounds like the pressure regulator valve lineup.
PR valve
Green spring
reverse boost valve
reverse boost valve sleeve
TV boost valve
TV boost valve sleeve
snap ring

The converter clutch valve is the one on the other side of the pump closer to the hole that the filter fits up into.
What's in the kit? If it's just swapping parts, should be an easy thing for you to do yourself. Just make sure you pull the correct lineup.
Sorry, didn't mean to get off topic.

Blake
 

ed hess

race or get outta the way
blake
I havent recieved it yet, but from just looking at the old directions i have for a B&M transpack the parts you listed is what he described to me.
And yes it is something that can be done without a tranny shop.

However i have yet to receive the stuff yet...

If it tightens things up then great if not.....dont know what i will do then as yet.

I do wonder how this stuff will compare since these parts were changed allready when the B&M stuff went into the tranny. Sure will be a bitch if i take out the same thing as i put in.

ed
 

Maxtor

New member
I have been satisfied with my old-style TCS 2800 9/11. I do have the 40-50mph vibration that annoys the hell out of me and makes me keep it in drive most of the time when below 55MPH. Mine doesn't appear to be loose like some of you describe, it rolls slightly at idle with the brake off. For a weekend truck and for performance with my one experience, I like it. Not sure if I would put it in a daily driver, though.

I looked at the values in F42 and F43 last night in promgrammer P01. Some of my old notes said Tunercat was better in this application because it displays TPS% out to two decimal places instead of one. Has anyone made changes using P01 with 10% adjustments and had good luck? Do you just change values at the problem MPH, or do you adjust slightly in front and behind the problem MPH to smooth it out?
 
B

Blake

Guest
Bill Calcagno has made revisions to promgrammer and it has taken this into account. A search should pull it up. Brian Green, Brian Hartman, Bill, and Myself were involved in the conversation and it had to do with eliminating vibration with software or something like that. My feeble brain can't remember it exactly. There was never a concensus on the software "patch" to get rid of the problem and I never saw an official release. I talked to TCS a while back and they had never heard of anyone having to do such a thing but they don't specialize in sytys either.
Hope that helps a little.
 

BillC

New member
Maxtor said:
I looked at the values in F42 and F43 last night in promgrammer P01. Some of my old notes said Tunercat was better in this application because it displays TPS% out to two decimal places instead of one.
As George mentioned, that's one of the things that has been fixed in Promgrammer (the new program, without the suffix). If you register for the new software, I'll send you the latest version.
 

Maxtor

New member
Thanks Bill/Blake. I do remember discussions regarding eliminating vibration through software changes, but I don't ever remember anything conclusive coming from those discussions. Just wondering if anyone had found anything recently that worked for them.

Bill C - Sent you an email about getting the latest version of promgrammer. Thanks.
 
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