I hate knock! DM's. inside

[JoeLutz]

First off you shouldn't have oil in the upper intake manifold at all unless you are getting a lot of oil through the pcv valves. Do you have a lot of blow by? have you checked compression? PCV valves new? The idle is controlled by the IAC valve on the back side of the throttle body. Someone could have turned in the screw on the throttle body too far causing the throttle valve not to be able to close far enough for it to idle down. If you've really tried everything else including the TDC check, then the next step is what I am planning to do.
I am going to pass along what JWaller suggested to me. Remove the throttle body and upper intake. Remove the IAC valve from the throttle body. I would probably go ahead and remove the lower intake too. CLEAN everything very thoroughly to remove all carbon deposits and see how oily the intake is inside. By this point, your probably considering the same thing I am .....L35 heads. but anyway. The idea is to make everything look new. match port the upper and lower intake. you may want to consider an EGR blockoff plate to keep deposits from biulding up in the future. John also suggested to just do away with the pcv valves and run a push in crankcase breather in the valve cover. I'm kinda hesitant to just do away with the pcv's though.... I would at the very least make sure you use the correct new pcv valves with new hose. I used hydraulic transmission hose. Basically the idea here is that any oil that enters the combustion chamber acts to lower the octain of the fuel, causing detonation. Reassemble with the best gaskets you can find. i would ask an experienced syty mechanic like jwaller what gaskets he reccomends.

Good luck

 

[Blake]

Something I noticed on your runs is that your boost is up over 15psi at somepoints. On run #7 you have a monster knock spike. The stock max boost is 13.8 psi. Look at the trend of knock vs boost in your runs. Every time it knocks, there is an over boost. You have any runs since you fixed the CAC pump fuse? This still tends to make me think it is a fueling issue. Not just because of the low O2 mv. All the O2 sensor can tell you is an average of what all 6 injectors are doing. You may have 1 lean injector that is bringing the whole average down. Just one cylinder knocking is all it takes.
Also, what's with all the data errors? I've looked at your runs before and you've never had that many data errors. Hmm. Don't know.
George

 

[Hu Ryde]

JoeLutz, I have been considering doing this but wanted to wait until I got the heads, TurboTony is going to ship me some withing the next week or so. After I get them and do some work to them I plan on having everything cleaned when it's all off. There is no blow by that I notice, the PCV's are new. and I have not done a compression test or TDC confirm. I plan on doing both today if time allows.

George, I noticed that rend also and I also picked up on the last 2 runs it began knocking arround 140* IA. I don't have any runs with the fuse fixed because of the rain. I got a good reply from Cruizin Performance it said:

(Hi Jesse,
The return shipping via UPS insured regular ground will be $7.08 so as long as all of your injectors are serviceable, your total should be $67.08.
You're close enough to Mich. that shipping time should only be one day via UPS.

Let me know when you ship them so I'll know about when to expect them to arrive.

Thanks,
Rich J.)

So I plan on having this done after the Ohio meet.

Not sure about all the data errors either. In one of the runs I got 2 codes but they both were followed by data errors along with that monster knock. Can't wait until it's back and running good. Thanks guys!

 

[Hu Ryde]

George, Since it has a 3in exhaust and high flow cat did you ever adjust the WG to compensate for less back pressure? Just thinking out loud.

 

[turboj91]

Just jumping in here very quickly (its 4:38am) with a couple of opinions. I did not read the DM specs (have to get some sleep). Oil in the combustion chamber causes knock - 100% dead on. Check it out. Plugs should show signs of oil (even small traces can be detected when inspected closely-its almost an art) if its there. Your photos are very good but I cannot tell from them. I would need to see them in person for an accurate answer (from me anyways). IMHO, your #2 plug seems nice & clean and your #1 plug seems "dirty". Your even side seems cleaner than the odd side. I usually do not see that much difference in "plug range" on a fuel injected eng. unless something is up. Once again, I'm only looking at photos (even as good as they are). Do the compression test and a leak down test. If all is well, then at least it is 2 more items you can cross off the list. And lastly, if you do not have any possibility of freezing temps. in the near future, running straight water with the water wetter is most efficient for heat transfer/cooling. Maybe I can "stop back" another time when I do not have a date with my pillow. Your getting good help from the others and I'm sure your going to find your prob. Peace.

 

[Blake]

I think stock idle is supposed to be 650rpm. A high idle usually indicates some type of a vaccum leak. You're doing the L-35s anyway so you'll be able to take care of that issue(if it is an issue)when you do those.
George

 

[Hu Ryde]

Geroge, Datamaster say's my idle is 725 with stock chip. It was arround 625-650 with Ultimate? Maybe there is something funky going on? I'm almost positive there isn't a vac leak but who knows. What are you doing Thursday? I'm going to wash and get the truck ready for the meet, you should stop by.

 

[Hu Ryde]

I also have a back fire right before the 2nd shift. Feels like it would if you launch without enough gass but not as bad. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

[Hu Ryde]

Latest http://www.joshhill.net/Images/8.uni

 

[Blake]

Did you disconnect the tan wire to check timing at some point before this run? It's showing a code 42.

On your IAC, it stays at 6 even when the throttle is closed. Typical values listed in the Helms is 15-50. On some outstanding runs I've checked out from other guys, their's is always between 25 and 40. A low IAC usually indicates a vaccum leak. Your IAC is actually closed at some points. The engine is still getting air from somewhere. If your throttle is closed and the IAC is closed, it may be coming from a upper to lower intake manifold gasket or the gaskets between the lower manifold and the heads.

On some of your earlier runs it was at an average of 36 or 38.

Something has definitely happened in the meantime. If it is backfiring you could have blown out a gasket or anything. You really need to do a compression check to see what that is. Head gaskets can sound awful at idle when they are screwed up. With heavy knock you can damage internal components. Pushrods, valves in the heads, connecting rods, pistons, etc.

With heavy knock of 12.1 to 13.7 and a persistent WOT you can do some serious damage. Always let off as soon as you hear it.

 

[Hu Ryde]

Head gaskets can sound awful at idle when they are screwed up.

The weird thing is, it's idleing better than it ever has? No missing or stumbling? It always has had a sort of back fire ever since I pulled the Ultimate. It's not like a gunshot backfire more like a puff of black smoke and loss of power kind. Not even much smoke. Hardley enough to notice. I need to get that compression test done to rule out some more things. Time is all it takes and there's not much of that in my life. What about this IAC? No I have had the timing set for a while, the tan wire was connected at the time of this run. Could a low voltage at the ecm be causing this?

 

[Blake]

The IAC number displayed on Datamaster is the number of "steps". A step kinda like the "klick" of the TV cable adjustment. It is an exact measurement for each step. The more steps, more "open" the IAC valve is.The less steps, the more "closed" the IAC valve is. The IAC valve itself is kinda like a throttle body that the computer can control. Some call it a controlled vacuum leak. I like the throttle body analogy better.
The ecm uses it among other things to control idle. If there is a vacuum leak, the ecm will compensate by closing the IAC valve more. With yours being completely closed and the engine still running, you've got a big leak somewhere. Since you have replaced all the vac lines, it has to be a gasket somewhere along the intake path. Don't try the carb cleaner method, you saw what it did to the seals in the tranny, it will do that to all your electrical connections also.

Look here for info on code 42. I copied everything I could and corrected the first page of code 42. Dumbasses put the wrong ignition control module in the picture of the original one.

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/chesterblake/lst?&.dir=/Sticker&.src=ph&.view=l

Let me know if the link doesn't work!!

 

[Hu Ryde]

My Idle Air Control has had a low number for the past 4 runs. Keith gave me a Dm and his was arround 50 or so. That has to be one of the probs. I'll look for a split hose or something again tonight.

 

[Blake]

Did the info come through on the 42 OK? Those charts will help find out right where it is at.
Since it started right after you moved the ecm, it is probably the cause of your popping and black smoke where the ecm is dumping fuel to compensate. Look to make sure all of the contacts are good. Find the contacts I listed on the ecm and move them after clearing your DTC and see if wiggling one make it come back. Could be the connector for EST bypass isn't plugged in good also.

Also, it probably feels like it's idling better because it is higher, which tends to overcome some of the loping they have stock. Some of the early multi chips had this feature for guys that had bigger cams and wanted to get some of a better idle back. I think they raised idle to 800 in some of those if I remember right.

Definitely find out where the 42 is coming from. A vacuum leak won't cause it.
George

 

[Hu Ryde]

Pic's were hard to read is that in my book anywhere?

 

[Ian Turgeon]

as for the iac readings, check the closed throttle position screw that is located on the front top corner of the throttle body, that may have been screwed in keeping the throttle open, resulting in the iac's low numbers.

the throttle linkage/bracket on the trottle body sits on the screw end when it is in the closed position -if that helps you find it.

 

[Blake]

Jesse's got my old truck. That screw was never tampered with. The IAC was in pretty good shape just a few days ago, this is something really recent.

The document should be but the pictoral reference will be wrong.
I'll send you a full size in your email if you want.
George