Heads. Gasket recommedations and retorque Qs

[92Ty#1524]

Are stock head gaskets acceptable for a .030 overbored block?

I could also use a suggestion for a head gasket that is least likely to require retorquing.

 

[Divergent Lightning]

Re: Head gasket recommedations?

Re: Head gasket recommedations?

Are stock head gaskets acceptable for a .030 overbored block?

They can be used if you bore the gaskets over to match.

I could also use a suggestion for a head gasket that is least likely to require retorquing.

Can you define what retorquing on the gasket is? Do you mean on the headbolts?[/quote]

 

[92Ty#1524]

Yes. Head bolts.

 

[jwaller]

every head gasket needs to be retorqued on these trucks no matter what the mfg says.

stock gaskets will go up to a 60 over bore.

 

[DanenGraham]

How many miles on a new motor befor you reTQ them? I know i need to do mine by now.

 

[bigtime]

I use cometic gaskets on street stuff with boost, They are probaly a little pricey for most here ($150.00 a set) A couple of good heat cycles is usually good. Just make sure when you retorque the engine is dead COLD.

 

[jwaller]

I use copper head gaskets now and on them the mfg says heat it up once without pressureizing the coolant system and retorque after 12hr cool down.

when I ran std type gaskets I ran them a few cycles then retorqued.

 

[nightdiver]

Yeah,stock gaskets and cometics are the best. Ill do cometics next......

 

[hamrhead]

I also did Cometic's last time. Did a couple of heat cycles and retorqued them. All of my head bolts were right where I left them.

Now I just hope the head gaskets stay where I put them. :roll: :-?

 

[92Ty#1524]

I was hoping to avoid having to take my headers, turbo and other interferences off after having just put it all together in order to retorque. Is there a practical and safe way to run the engine on a stand (for initial warm-up) prior to dropping it back in the truck??

 

[Captain Morgan]

I was hoping to avoid having to take my headers, turbo and other interferences off after having just put it all together in order to retorque. Is there a practical and safe way to run the engine on a stand (for initial warm-up) prior to dropping it back in the truck??

good call, I forgot about the head bolts under the manifolds/headers until I ripped another engine apart today.

man, thats gonna be a bitch. :lol:

I was just planning on putting my new engine in the truck, firing it up w/o the IC hooked up and breaking it in initially that way. Once heated, shut it down let it cool to the touch. (I have actually heard some people run cool water over the engine to help remove the excess heat once its cooled to touch in order to get another good heat cycle in within the same day.) Anyway, after a few cycles park it overnight and retorque the heads the next morning, then start final assembly and put everything on as normal, then put some mileage on that pig

 

[92Ty#1524]

...or yet another radical idea. Dont laugh. This just may work, unless someone can tell me why not....

Leave engine on stand. Remove thermostat and reinstall upper hose neck on intake. Pump hot water (180 to 200 or so) from 10 gal propane fired boiling pot. Circulate it through the block and back into the pot with a small electric pump from Home Depot. So as long as it's being done evenly, heat is heat, right??

 

[bigtime]

That would be great for reducing wear before startup but would probably come up short for retorque. Remember the engine runs considerably hotter than the water temp.

 

[92Ty#1524]

K, then use mineral oil heated to 250-300 or so.

 

[bigtime]

How about just putting a set of regular 4 wheel drive manifolds on and letting it run? you don't need the turbo for heat cycles.

 

[92Ty#1524]

That may be well for some but, as I mentioned, I'm trying to avoid removing or installing my exhaust with the motor in place. I've got KB headers and have extremely limited to no access to the bolts on the driver side header while the motor is in place. The oil dipstick (as I recall) gets in the way. Just trying to figure out a way to do everything I need to do to the engine prior to dropping it back in.

Anyone have much luck removing/installing KBs with motor in place?

 

[DanenGraham]

could you bake it, like with just the heads and intake on it, in a big oven somewhere. i bet you could get it up to 500+

 

[bigtime]

Do it the right way. Nobody ever said it was easy. You coud always run it on a engine dyno.

 

[hamrhead]

I have KB headers, and they can be removed withthe engine in the truck. NO, it AIN'T easy, but each time you do it it DOES get easier.

If you are bent on doing a retorque, I have 2 suggestions.

1) Kind of half-assed, but just do the retorque on the bolts you can get at without removing the headers. Basically all of the head bolts under the valve cover. If you find ANY of them are not where you initially set them, then yank the exhaust and retorque ALL of them.

2) Probably the correct way here. When you assemble the exhaust, use only a couple of bolts to hang the headers (Obviously the ones that can be easily installed/removed). This approach also goes for mounting the turbo(2 of 4 bolts should work), crossover(1 or 2 bolts in each), and downpipe. This will make your exhaust removal so much quicker, and I can't see it hurting anything as it's not like you're going to be throwing any boost at it for a couple of heat cycles. Then do the retorque, and reinstall the exhaust system will all of the bolts(and threadlocker!).

You're bound to make mistakes when installing KB headers, as there seems to be a certain sequence that must be followed. Most likely you'll tighten a couple of header bolts, only to find out that they need to be left loose until something else is installed. I've had mine off and on, with the engine in the truck, a few times now. It seems to get a little easier each time IMO.

***One more thing I've learned from making the same mistake over and over. Get a few towels and stuff them in between the engine block and the frame on each side, so WHEN (not IF) you DO drop the header bolts, they don't 'disappear into oblivion'. They damn near never reach the ground! :fist: