Gilbert propshaft install

Osmosis

Osmosis

New member
I recenlty purchased a gilbert propshaft. I thought it was a direct bolt in, I thought wrong. I recenlty changed my TCC and I was glad to be done with that.

What is involved in the installation of the gilbert propshaft. It looks like it bolts up to the transmission at the rear of the car, but it seems like it has to have the yolk installed to the front drive train. How do I do this? Do I need to pull the front drive train out of the car or can I pull the yolk out from under the car? And what tools will I need for this job?

I did read a few threads on this, but I"m still a bit confused.

Thanks 4 the help!
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

R&R of the front diff yoke is done with a single 32mm socket and impact wrench. no need to remove anything except the original propshaft and it's original front diff yoke.

the rest of the job can be finished in 10 minutes from begin to end. very simple.
 
SY2932

SY2932

Administrator
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

Being a Gilbert owner for almost eight years now, you are going to need to get some torx sockets if you still have the stock hardware holding the propshaft on. The front bolts will require a E12 and the rear ones will need an E14. These bolts can be EXTREMELY tight. You may have to use an impact gun or "blue tipped wrench" to get them loose.

The Gilbert propshaft doesn't bolt up to the front flange on the front differential. It uses a yoke in it's place that should have been supplied with your propshaft. You must remove the 32MM nut that holds the flange on. An impact gun is highly recommended for removing this nut. This is done AFTER the orientation of the pinion nut to the pinion shaft has been marked and the number of exposed threads have been counted. This is to assure that the crush collar is not damaged when the yoke that replaces the front mounting flange is installed. It is recommended to replace the front pinion seal when doing this as some individuals have experienced minor leaks after the install if it was not replaced.

The rear bolts directly to the flange on the transfer case. Another thing that that MUST be done is the transmission range select lever needs to be cut down shortened and welded due to the larger diameter of this propshaft. The range lever WILL rub against the propshaft if this is not done. I bought a stainless steel one from Detroit Turbo a few years ago. It is a quality piece and can be bought here.
 
WyoSyclone

WyoSyclone

Active member
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

If you go to the link in my signature, I have some pics of my Gilbert install, if that will help at all.
 
BoostedSUV

BoostedSUV

Active member
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

I had to shorten the range selector and the shift cable bracket. Both were rubbing and I shortened to be in relation to each other.


I never noted the orientation of my stock prop shaft bc it busted and came out in pieces. I just bolted the yoke up tight and put the prop shaft in. Could this be why I have a vibration? Any way to determine the correct orientation at this point?
 
Don W.

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

Mike nailed it. Only thing I would add is on the rear bolts if you heat the flange at the threaded portion the bolts come out much easier. You do NOT want to strip those bolts heads. Those little hand-held propane torches will work.
 
Osmosis

Osmosis

New member
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

First off, thank you guys for the help!

Now, I"m a little confused as when I took my propshaft off for the TCC install, I noticed the front area where the propshaft mated to was flat..and there was an area where the stock propshaft fit into. Where is the 32mm bolt that holds the flange at?

Also, my new/used gilbert propshaft has a plastic fitting pressed on to the yolk end. This plastic piece has a 1/2 inch C shaped damaged area. Does this need to be replaced/repaired? Is it expensive or an easy fix?

Thanks again for the help! I"m busting my arse off to get my ty done for the summer. New turbo, new TCC, New 260 gal/hr IC pump, Gilbert shaft...comming soon..wide band and final tuning:D:tup:
 
Jimmy

Jimmy

Banned
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

Osmosis said:
First off, thank you guys for the help!

Now, I"m a little confused as when I took my propshaft off for the TCC install, I noticed the front area where the propshaft mated to was flat..and there was an area where the stock propshaft fit into. Where is the 32mm bolt that holds the flange at?

Also, my new/used gilbert propshaft has a plastic fitting pressed on to the yolk end. This plastic piece has a 1/2 inch C shaped damaged area. Does this need to be replaced/repaired? Is it expensive or an easy fix?

Thanks again for the help! I"m busting my arse off to get my ty done for the summer. New turbo, new TCC, New 260 gal/hr IC pump, Gilbert shaft...comming soon..wide band and final tuning:D:tup:
Click to expand...

The 32mm bolt is in the middle of the stock flange on the front diff.It is only visible with the propshaft removed.

Do you have the Gilbert flange to replace the stocker? I would recommend replacing the crush collar pinion seal,since you are there anyways.

The shifter linkage arm can just be bent in a bit with a tire iron to clear the propshaft. No need for anything fancy.
 
Quickstop [UK]

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

Jimmy said:
The 32mm bolt is in the middle of the stock flange on the front diff.It is only visible with the propshaft removed.

Do you have the Gilbert flange to replace the stocker? I would recommend replacing the crush collar pinion seal,since you are there anyways.

The shifter linkage arm can just be bent in a bit with a tire iron to clear the propshaft. No need for anything fancy.
Click to expand...

X2

Also, doesn't the arm have to move a certain distance to select a gear. As it is a radial swing arm, cutting it would make the radius smaller so it has less travel. It's not going to be a huge amount but perhaps enough to mess with the gear selection?

Just a thought...

And I bought one from DT as well for my 80e and it still rubs... I'll keep an eye on it...
 
Osmosis

Osmosis

New member
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

Excellent info guys!

Now, what about the plastic ring that is pressed onto the yolk (the part that goes into the front wheels). Mine has a chiped piece on it. Does that need to be replaced? If so, how and is it expensive or is that part of the crush seal kit?
 
Don W.

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

There are no plastic pieces that I can think of on a Gilbert shaft. Without a pic I'm guessing you're talking about some sort of protective piece. "Remove before install." Maybe you should put up a pic?
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

Osmosis said:
Excellent info guys!

Now, what about the plastic ring that is pressed onto the yolk (the part that goes into the front wheels). Mine has a chiped piece on it. Does that need to be replaced? If so, how and is it expensive or is that part of the crush seal kit?
Click to expand...

the plastic is only there to prevent mud (in the 4wd app) from getting to the seal. it''s not needed and can be discarded.
 
Osmosis

Osmosis

New member
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

John,

Thanks for the replies. Very valuable info from all as I've never done this project before, I was expecting a bolt in project.

So basically, what do I need to do to put my propshaft in and what is involved in replacing the "crush seal"?

Thank you guys so much!

Oz:tup:
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

the crush seal cannot be replaced with opening up the front diff. you can only replace the outer input flange seal. that is all I ever do when swapping the flanges.
 
1madgumby

1madgumby

New member
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

Mark the nut before you take it off, it has to go back on perfect other wise it will Jeff up your front drive unit. I notched it with A die grinder on the nut & pinion, because paint can wear off if you mark it with that. It is vary easy to install.
 
Osmosis

Osmosis

New member
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

Well, I definately don't want to do the crush seal if I have to open up the case!:squint: No Way, no thank you! Regarding the nut and marking the nut. What torque should be put on the nut? I"m not sure why it would matter of how the nut goes on? It's just a nut...I kind of don't understand the reason it should be marked...or why it would mess up the front wheel drive?

Thanks again for the help:tup:
 
Don W.

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

Osmosis said:
Regarding the nut and marking the nut. What torque should be put on the nut? I"m not sure why it would matter of how the nut goes on? It's just a nut...I kind of don't understand the reason it should be marked...or why it would mess up the front wheel drive?

Thanks again for the help:tup:
Click to expand...

Hard to explain just mark it. Torque is not a factor, tightening it back to where it came from IS.

(Oh well, the short answer is bearing pre-load)
 
Osmosis

Osmosis

New member
Re: Gilbert propshaft install

Don,

Thank you for the reply. REgarding bearing preload. I remember when I had my Z28, I put a new ring/pinion in . I had to adjsut the preload by using a dial indicator and putting foward, then backward movement on the ring gear. Do I need to use a dial indicator to get the correct preload on this nut? Forgive me for shooting in the dark, I have never done this job and it's difficult to visualize what I have not yet seen:roll:
 
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