I relocated it to the front of my intake but it doesent screw in but only 3-4 threads cause it hits the water neck, also I ran an overlay wire from the connector(at the ecm) to the sensor I thought that might be my problem but wouldnt I have a light on all the time? (it does come on and I do get a knock code but only about every 3-or 4 times I drive itleroy said:A few ideas:
You can relocate your knock sensor
.
Make sure the knock sensor is torqued to 14 ft. lbs.
Eliminate mechanical noise.....lifter adjustment, exhaust leaks, loose brackets, flywheel bolts, etc.
Make sure base timing is correct.
Use all the correct and fresh tuneup parts.
.
Tune it with a wideband.
Jim
I added some octane booster to my 3 gallon fill (2 bottles of octanebooster) and it ran better up till I hit 7-8psi then it layed over still.protosy said:just another thought, but try some race fuel. like c16 or something.
BrianJ said:I relocated it to the front of my intake but it doesent screw in but only 3-4 threads cause it hits the water neck, also I ran an overlay wire from the connector(at the ecm) to the sensor I thought that might be my problem but wouldnt I have a light on all the time? (it does come on and I do get a knock code but only about every 3-or 4 times I drive it
I do have a rattiling noise I can hear in the car but not outside the car or comming from under the hood I suspect its comming from my transmission because my shifter is slightly misadjusted.
Timming is set a t 0 this is correct ?
I have new wires and plugs in it. Cap and rotor are not in bad shape.
I dont have a wideband to tune with
thanks for the help
does the problem I am having sound like its comming from the knock circut?leroy said:You should never get a check engine light for knock. Follow the diagnostics at http://www.syty.org/old/d&e-code43.html .
I'm not sure what you mean about only being able to screw it in 3 or 4 threads. The hole in the intake is 3/8-16 and the knock sensor is NPT. (3/8 I think). I welded a pipe cap on top of a short 3/8-16 bolt. Tighten the bolt securely. Then thread the knock sensor in to 14 ft. lbs. I never had a clearance issue with the water neck. I've run a shielded wire to the knock sensor in another application.
Timing is set at zero, with the tan wire disconnected. The outer ring on stock balancers tend to slip and may be off by quite a bit. There are 2 marks on the balancer. Make sure you are using the right one. You can use a piston stop to find true tdc.
HTH,
Jim
that is where mine is and its hitting the waterneck the big round part is to big.Slow-Clone said:Sorry to butt in.. is it safe to drill/tap the hole to the left of the thermostat out so the sensor is a direct fit?
BrianJ said:ever heard of insolating the knock sensor?
BrianJ said:what is the best way to find false knock? When I get over 7psi the ecm is seeing knock and taking 20 deg of timming out? This is a brand new eng and its not knocking help please.