Engine R&R preferences?

[Dan_Austin]

I found a few threads with tips to make getting to motor mounts easier, and those tips were a big help. I started disconnecting wiring and hoses this afternoon and only have a bit more to go before I can lift the current engine out, and if no family issues pop-up I suspect that will happen tomorrow.

For the folks that have installed an engine in one(or more) of these trucks, do you prefer to fully dress the engine before dropping it in? I was leaning towards having the lower intake, injectors, rail and all sensors installed, including MAP, exhaust and turbo, less downpipe. Thinking that would make connecting water and oil feeds to the turbo easier, as well as some of the very buried wiring. After the engine was in, I planned to prime the oil pump and stab the distributor, install the upper intake and the final bits related to those items.

I'm sure I could figure out any issues that might come up, but knowing what has worked for the community would be huge help.

 

[DaveP's Ghost]

I put as much on it as possible prior to putting it between the fenders. It's quicker, comes out better, and less chance of trauma to the paint and cladding because less time is spent leaning over the fenders.

The downpipe has to be in place. You can get it in later, but its fussy.
Pay attention to the fuel lines positioning as it goes in, especially a Syclone supply line. If the lines aren't helped into place AS the engine comes down, good luck getting them in after the engine is positioned.
Wiring harness can be left in the truck. Clip it into the retainers on the rear as the engine comes down. Put the battery cables on the engine prior to installation. Connect the ground wires on the rear of the LH head with partial drop.

If the transmission is OUT: Install the engine first. You can pre-fill the filter, you don't HAVE to prime the pump. This way you can install the upper and distributor on the stand. I don't install the Intercooler until after the wiring and fuel lines are connected. After engine through bolts are in, install the transmission, then T-case, then crossmember.

If the transmission is IN: Access to the top two bellhousing bolts is difficult impossible if the trans isn't dropped for access. If I'm leaving the trans in place, I leave the upper and distributor off so I can access the top bolts from the engine bay. It is a little fussier to get everything lined up with the trans installed, particularly with solid motor mounts, but do-able.

If you leave the heater hose at the intake off while pre-filling the coolant, it will bleed easier. When coolant appears at the hose barb, install the heater hose.

Here's a couple of pics of my engine prior to install in DesertSy. Note how much is already on the engine. Even the belt, oil hoses, and P/Steer hoses. The engine harness is installed on the engine, so I was able to preinstall the inter-cooler as well. Just the way this project sequenced. Normally, I leave the engine harness in the chassis. The water pump pulley nuts are finger-tight, I install the engine driven fan after the engine drop. The transmission went in AFTER the engine, so the upper and distributor are installed. I static-timed the engine on the stand, so it fired immediately when first cranked, and built oil pressure right away.

 

[Dan_Austin]

Thanks! That is basically the plan I used. Trans in place, upper intake off. I did install a distributor body to keep anything from falling in. The upper trans bolts were not fun to remove, and only slightly better to install (clean block and threads, spun by finger until snug). I spotted the potential issues with the fuel lines and have them pulled up and out of the way.

I did snap the oil pressure nipple on a chain, but that allowed me to figure out a better mount/routing option for the sensor. I also snapped a nipple off the boost controller, but that may have been cracked before hand. I am waiting on a few more parts from Sports Machine that I decided to replace after seeing the original items condition.

One the easy to do list is install the upper intake, set base timing, install vacuum lines and ignition wires, radiator hoses, install fan belt and fan and fill all fluids. Being a brand new engine, I was leaning towards laying on top of the engine to prime the oil system, but I may go with filling the filter and cranking with the plugs out. That would

The one not easy task left is I am fighting with one motor mount bolt. I installed the SM steering shaft and solid mounts while the engine was out. The clocking of the mounts appears correct, but about 1/4" too far apart. Last night it occurred to me that loosening the trans mount might make it easier to nudge the engine to the side, but haven't been out to the garage yet to try that. Thanks for the photos! As with vehicle this old I know better than to assume that any part is original, or installed correctly, and a see a few items that I may need to adjust, but it does appear that my Typhoon wasn't hacked on too badly before I got it.

 

[DaveP's Ghost]

Do whatever it takes to bolt the engine in with no stress on the solid mounts. Loosening the trans mount is part of it, but my experience has been that the mounts on the block also need to be loosened to find the "no-stress' position. If you force the bolts in, the mounts will fracture fairly quickly. There is a recent thread on here that discusses the viability and durability of the solid mounts.

I assemble my engines with Assembly Lube. This is tenacious stuff that stays on the bearings for months, and will provide protection on first-start even if the system isn't primed. If you (or the builder) used motor oil, I would suggest priming with a drill motor after the system is intact. Especially if it has been months since the engine was assembled.
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I like telling my stories. Years ago I was reinstalling the Big Block into my SS 396 El Camino after its first rebuild. When removing the lifting chain, I dropped the 3/8X1-1/2 bolt through the distributor hole. I couldn't be certain that the bolt made it all the way to the pan, or was in the valley where a Big Block has openings above the camshaft where if a bolt were to fall into, damage would result. I pulled the intake, and the bolt wasn't there, so it was in the pan. 8 years and 125,000 miles later, the engine came out for another rebuild. When I turned the engine upside down on the stand, I heard a "clunk" inside the pan. I knew what it was. The bolt was patiently waiting for me to finally remove it after 125k miles. I've been careful about not dropping anything through there ever since. CapPlugs work great for this.

 

[Dan_Austin]

Thanks for those pointers. Loosening the trans mount didn't help enough I ended up loosening the block side and the lower two frame side bolts. It still took more persuasion than I liked. I'll keep an eye on the mounts. If they fail, well I learned a lot about what does and doesn't work when doing this project.

I worked with the builder, and we put copious amounts of assembly lube on every bearing and sliding surface. The final assembly was only a two weeks ago, so use the crank with no plugs method.

I'm sure I dropped a 3/8 socket down the distributor hole one time. Being young, dumb and tired, I just finished the install. The motor was still running strong when the rest of the car fell apart around it (love me some north-east rust). My brother has that engine in his car now and I know he's opened it up to check it our before installing it, and didn't ask me about it...